stuka73

You are correct, that is how I measured it. FYI the measurement for the rear sway bar is 40mm.

I've mucked around with sway bars for a while. At the moment, I'm using the thickest (pink) bar on the front with no bar on the rear. This was to attempt to compensate for the oversteer that I have been experiencing. Now that the front hrc block has settled that down, I will be revisiting my spring and sway bar package. Hopefully it will stop raining so the track can dry out so I can test.

Sway bars are used to adjust balance front to rear and seem to be of greater benefit on higher traction tracks. At my track, I'm the only sct using sway bars. Sway bars seem to be essential on 4wd buggies, but not 2wd buggies or stadium trucks.

From the testing I have done so far, the sway bars response on an sct seem to be relatively subtle compared to a buggy. I assume that this is due to the extra weight and longer suspension arms of a sct. It will be interesting to try thicker sway bars (I'm thinking around 2mm) and see what happens.

To answer your question, will they help? Maybe. They will change your steering characteristics through the corner, but whether it will be better for you depends upon so many things that a blanket statement one way or the other means nothing. I suggest you get your springs and damping sorted for the bumps and jumps, then the suspension geometry for the corners then the sway bars to adjust for final balance. You will be going back and fowards a bit until you get a setup you like. Then the track's traction will change and you will start over again. Fun times!

FastGT94

iTrader: (1)

stuka73

You're very welcome. Let's keep discussions open, it's great to hear what is working (or not). I've tried a lot of different combos over the last year, I hope I can help you all out with my experiences. I'm not the fastest, but it's getting better. It's certainly been frustrating at times but I'm really starting to enjoy it.

FastGT94

iTrader: (1)

I'd be happy to share my experiences but they will all be on the SC10.3, not the TLR haha I suppose the overall concept of sway bar use would carry over across platforms though. The fastest guy at my track has a SC B5M with front and rear bars on it which is why I'm looking to experiment on my rear motor truck and retro fit a front bar kit, looks like this one just may clear my front tower with limited modifications.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

So I just purchased the aluminum gear diff. And after two qualifiers my outdrive set screws came loose. I used blue loctite. Any ideas? I was told by the local guys to use red loctite but this being a $70 diff I am afraid of damage when it comes to servicing it. It's the one highlighted in yellow.

MrLean

iTrader: (15)

You have to clean the set screw and the outdrive with motor spray to remove all the oil from the machining process prior to putting the Loctite on. Otherwise, the Loctite won't stick.

FastGT94

iTrader: (1)

Don't use red, that stuff is too strong for this kind of application IMO

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

Thanks. So I put some chain cleaner in a sandwich bag then put the outdrives and screws in there for a bit while agitating the fluid. Pulled them out and wiped them off. Used q-tips to clean inside screw hole. Then I did the same using a baggy with brake cleaner, then finally the baggy with isopropyl alcohol. Afterwards I cleaned up the diff, applied some blue loctite (gel) to the screws and attached the outdrives. I hope this does the trick. Thanks.

071crazy

iTrader: (8)

I assume that you haven't worked on a TLR gear diff. The diff outdrives on TLR cars really need red loctite, as they loosen pretty easily. After cleaning both setscrew and outdrive threads, make sure that both parts are thoroughly dry. Then, put a small drop of red loctite directly on the outdrive threads, in addition to the setscrew threads.

Frank Root did a video on building TLR gear diffs, worth taking a look.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

Ran the truck after cleaning as specified and using Blue loctite. Practice, two 5 minute qualifiers and a 7 min main and then some practice in the end (carpet) and I am happy to report ot worked fine,screws held up well. Thanks for the input.

Watched the video and heard him say loctite but didn't hear him specify a color and couldn't tell what color he was using. I'll be running again next week, if it doesn't hold past then I'll have to run with the red, thanks for the input

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

what's the time frame on the 4.0 I have a 2.0 with the mid motor conversion kit but was hoping to get a new 4.0 with the laydown and shock tower worked out for the coming indoor season to run on carpet. I know trying to run the 3 gear standup on carpet is going to be a bit hard and I am still winning with my 2.0 on the regional dirt tracks so I was hoping to keep it for dirt and have a new 4.0 for carpet.

Djr8505

I don't want to speak for the people over at TLR but it will probably be some time before a 4.0 SCT. I believe it was Frank that mentioned several pages back that the laydown setup, although helps, does not make as big of a change to the SCT as it does for the buggy and stadiums. From my personal experience the 3 gear tranny is very competitive on turf/carpet in my 3.0. many of the races have come down to driver skill more than equipment and at the time this was racing against SC5M trucks with the B6 laydown fit in them(pre SC6.1). Frank also posted a list of the required and optional parts here that would convert our trucks to the 4.0 transmission. I've seen some 3.0 kits (used) go fairly cheap in my area to the point where you could add the parts needed and come in under new kit price for a 3.0.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

+1

I run my sct 2.0 on carpet and use a 3 gear tranny and I am competitive. I run pinpoints front and back. In the front I only kept the middle three rows of pins (shaved down the others) , and the only time I ever have a problem with roll overs is strictly my mistake, not the cars fault. The only thing to finish getting it dialed on carpet for me, is finding the right shock oil weights because landing is where I'm having a rough time need something more forgiving for awkward landings.

Djr8505

I've been running 40wt front and rear with the Kit springs and it seems to do alright. There are some jumps where if I land on the flat the truck wants to bounce/buck which makes me think I might want to try 35wt all around and possibly use 37.5 in the front.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

​​​​​​I'll try the 40s, thats exactly what my truck does on a rhythm section of the track. If I crash there. It takes forever to get marshaled.