TLR 22 SCT 3.0
#586
I am very embarrassed to say that I ordered the truck when it was first released, but JUST now got time to build it...yes, over a year passed with it new in box. (I was building a house and not racing...). I have raced the 1.0 and 2.0 trucks for years and I am excited to get this thing on the track. In an effort to get good answers fast I thought I'd post right here and see what you guys had for advice, so here's my questions:
Q1) I typically like Frank Root's posted setups that appear a bit after the kits are released better than that available when the kits are released, and I did not build it straight away so I decided to use the ROOT setup on this one. I have not searched out any other setups. What CURRENT setup do you guys suggest for low to mid-bite clay, for a truck with modified, wheel standing power?
Q2) The rear shock setup in the kit has 7mm of limiters inside the shock body. The ROOT setup shows a blank on the setup sheet there. Does this mean that there are NO limiters in the shocks or that the blank just didn't get some data entered? For now I've got the 7mm kit spacers in the rear shocks but thought Frank could speak to this. I didn't try to set it up without limiter spacers in the rear shocks, and I'm not even sure if the bones would stay in with full droop.
Q3) With what I THINK is correct on the front bump steer spacers/ackerman/etc for the Root setup sheet, I'm looking at quite a bit of bump-steer where the truck toes-OUT on suspension compression. It is more bump-steer than I ever ran on the 2.0 or any other vehicle. Can someone confirm how much bump steer you are getting in the clay setups you like and post what you like for front steering geometry?
I hope to get the truck on track in a day or so, but wanted to ask these Q's so that I could get your thoughts in mind and get a good setup on it before I get out. I'm still not fully done building this house, and time is very valuable...but I'm dying to get back to the track.
Thank you for some help.
Q1) I typically like Frank Root's posted setups that appear a bit after the kits are released better than that available when the kits are released, and I did not build it straight away so I decided to use the ROOT setup on this one. I have not searched out any other setups. What CURRENT setup do you guys suggest for low to mid-bite clay, for a truck with modified, wheel standing power?
Q2) The rear shock setup in the kit has 7mm of limiters inside the shock body. The ROOT setup shows a blank on the setup sheet there. Does this mean that there are NO limiters in the shocks or that the blank just didn't get some data entered? For now I've got the 7mm kit spacers in the rear shocks but thought Frank could speak to this. I didn't try to set it up without limiter spacers in the rear shocks, and I'm not even sure if the bones would stay in with full droop.
Q3) With what I THINK is correct on the front bump steer spacers/ackerman/etc for the Root setup sheet, I'm looking at quite a bit of bump-steer where the truck toes-OUT on suspension compression. It is more bump-steer than I ever ran on the 2.0 or any other vehicle. Can someone confirm how much bump steer you are getting in the clay setups you like and post what you like for front steering geometry?
I hope to get the truck on track in a day or so, but wanted to ask these Q's so that I could get your thoughts in mind and get a good setup on it before I get out. I'm still not fully done building this house, and time is very valuable...but I'm dying to get back to the track.
Thank you for some help.
#587
Tech Regular
Better hurry and get some use out of that 3.0!
#588
Tech Initiate
My plan of attack now is to increase rear camber a degree or two and raise the rear roll centre dramatically to see what happens, then adjust from there. I am also going to try to loosen my diff if I can.
Thanks RazorRC, losi8lunie and faqcya for your input. I will post again after the next race to let you guys know how it went.
#589
Tech Initiate
Bivens,
As you may have gathered from my previous posts, I am trying to get a setup that works for me. I run on low to medium grip outdoor clay so hopefully what I have exprienced will be of use to you.
I found the steering very aggressive, some people like that but it was too much for me. What I did was raise the axle height by having 4mm spacers in the bottom with no spacers at the top. This really calmed it dowm, to the point it was too much. I intend to go to 3mm in the bottom and 1mm in the top and see if that is a bit better. I am also running 4mm trail, shortest camber link possible, 3mm on inner mount and 1mm on hub with long vla.
Regarding limiters in rear shocks, Frank answered this on post 197 (its 7mm).
Bump steer - I noticed the same as you. If you put in the #1 ackerman arms, it will reduce the bump toe out massively.
Anyone know why you would want toe out bump steer? In full size cars this is something to be eliminated if possible.
Hope this helps.
As you may have gathered from my previous posts, I am trying to get a setup that works for me. I run on low to medium grip outdoor clay so hopefully what I have exprienced will be of use to you.
I found the steering very aggressive, some people like that but it was too much for me. What I did was raise the axle height by having 4mm spacers in the bottom with no spacers at the top. This really calmed it dowm, to the point it was too much. I intend to go to 3mm in the bottom and 1mm in the top and see if that is a bit better. I am also running 4mm trail, shortest camber link possible, 3mm on inner mount and 1mm on hub with long vla.
Regarding limiters in rear shocks, Frank answered this on post 197 (its 7mm).
Bump steer - I noticed the same as you. If you put in the #1 ackerman arms, it will reduce the bump toe out massively.
Anyone know why you would want toe out bump steer? In full size cars this is something to be eliminated if possible.
Hope this helps.
#590
Tech Adept
Another realty stupid question here:
Has anyone tried to shim the 3 gear tranny case by 1-2mm? I am running high traction indoor turf and have the rear of the truck set at 23mm ride height in the rear and the dogbones have some significant angles in the outdrives. I have heard that decreasing the binding in the axles will help generate more side bite on the tires allowing more throttle on corner exit. Is this correct?
Has anyone tried to shim the 3 gear tranny case by 1-2mm? I am running high traction indoor turf and have the rear of the truck set at 23mm ride height in the rear and the dogbones have some significant angles in the outdrives. I have heard that decreasing the binding in the axles will help generate more side bite on the tires allowing more throttle on corner exit. Is this correct?
#591
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Another realty stupid question here:
Has anyone tried to shim the 3 gear tranny case by 1-2mm? I am running high traction indoor turf and have the rear of the truck set at 23mm ride height in the rear and the dogbones have some significant angles in the outdrives. I have heard that decreasing the binding in the axles will help generate more side bite on the tires allowing more throttle on corner exit. Is this correct?
Has anyone tried to shim the 3 gear tranny case by 1-2mm? I am running high traction indoor turf and have the rear of the truck set at 23mm ride height in the rear and the dogbones have some significant angles in the outdrives. I have heard that decreasing the binding in the axles will help generate more side bite on the tires allowing more throttle on corner exit. Is this correct?
#592
Stuka, Thank you for the answers. I'm curious on Frank's answer to the toe-out bump steer question for sure. I'd like to know what ackerman/bump steer settings are working well for TLR now that the truck has had more time to develop.
Bivens,
As you may have gathered from my previous posts, I am trying to get a setup that works for me. I run on low to medium grip outdoor clay so hopefully what I have exprienced will be of use to you.
I found the steering very aggressive, some people like that but it was too much for me. What I did was raise the axle height by having 4mm spacers in the bottom with no spacers at the top. This really calmed it dowm, to the point it was too much. I intend to go to 3mm in the bottom and 1mm in the top and see if that is a bit better. I am also running 4mm trail, shortest camber link possible, 3mm on inner mount and 1mm on hub with long vla.
Regarding limiters in rear shocks, Frank answered this on post 197 (its 7mm).
Bump steer - I noticed the same as you. If you put in the #1 ackerman arms, it will reduce the bump toe out massively.
Anyone know why you would want toe out bump steer? In full size cars this is something to be eliminated if possible.
Hope this helps.
As you may have gathered from my previous posts, I am trying to get a setup that works for me. I run on low to medium grip outdoor clay so hopefully what I have exprienced will be of use to you.
I found the steering very aggressive, some people like that but it was too much for me. What I did was raise the axle height by having 4mm spacers in the bottom with no spacers at the top. This really calmed it dowm, to the point it was too much. I intend to go to 3mm in the bottom and 1mm in the top and see if that is a bit better. I am also running 4mm trail, shortest camber link possible, 3mm on inner mount and 1mm on hub with long vla.
Regarding limiters in rear shocks, Frank answered this on post 197 (its 7mm).
Bump steer - I noticed the same as you. If you put in the #1 ackerman arms, it will reduce the bump toe out massively.
Anyone know why you would want toe out bump steer? In full size cars this is something to be eliminated if possible.
Hope this helps.
#593
Tech Adept
So last night I cracked open the tranny to clean and re-lube the gear diff in my truck. When I bought the truck second hand I had assumed that the previous owner used the planetary gear diff and bought 60K diff oil to put in it. Well turns out it is running the older sun/spider gear diff configuration from the 22sct RTR. The diff was nearly dry inside (no surprise) so I added the fluid and the diff does work but is definitely very stiff. It is almost like the Posi-lock in my truck. For anyone who is using the older diff style what weight fluid are you using for indoor carpet or turf?
I guess one benefit of the heavier fluid is that it should be significantly harder for it to leak out everywhere!
I guess one benefit of the heavier fluid is that it should be significantly harder for it to leak out everywhere!
#594
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
So last night I cracked open the tranny to clean and re-lube the gear diff in my truck. When I bought the truck second hand I had assumed that the previous owner used the planetary gear diff and bought 60K diff oil to put in it. Well turns out it is running the older sun/spider gear diff configuration from the 22sct RTR. The diff was nearly dry inside (no surprise) so I added the fluid and the diff does work but is definitely very stiff. It is almost like the Posi-lock in my truck. For anyone who is using the older diff style what weight fluid are you using for indoor carpet or turf?
I guess one benefit of the heavier fluid is that it should be significantly harder for it to leak out everywhere!
I guess one benefit of the heavier fluid is that it should be significantly harder for it to leak out everywhere!
#595
Tech Adept
Thanks for the reply! I'll have to see if I can sneak out to the local shop this weekend and get some new fluids. At least getting to the diff on this newer model is much faster than some of the other kits I've used before.
#596
Tech Adept
For the hell of it I went to the local track today to run some practice laps and surprisingly enough using that heavy weight oil in the diff really did not destroy the handling of the truck. I know I've said this before but it's amazing how much more consistent this kit feels compared to some of the ones that I've run in the past.
#597
Tech Initiate
Hello, I am putting together a 3.0 as a SC Late Model. On the left rear tire I usually use 0~+.5° camber. Set up this way the driveshaft is barely in the outdrive. With the right side at -1° it's still in the outer 1/4 of the outdrive. Ride height is arms level til I get the electronics fully installed. Toe is at the factory 4° but may come back once I drive it. Is there a 96ish mm drive shaft i can use for a little more engagement?
#598
Tech Apprentice
Hey everyone noob here with the 22 SCT will be setting up two new ones for my son and I. Please be kind looking for set up help for the black (CRC) carpet.
set up for "Dummies" would be awesome as I am still learning..... lol
any and all info is appreciated!!
set up for "Dummies" would be awesome as I am still learning..... lol
any and all info is appreciated!!
#599
Tech Adept
Hello, I am putting together a 3.0 as a SC Late Model. On the left rear tire I usually use 0~+.5° camber. Set up this way the driveshaft is barely in the outdrive. With the right side at -1° it's still in the outer 1/4 of the outdrive. Ride height is arms level til I get the electronics fully installed. Toe is at the factory 4° but may come back once I drive it. Is there a 96ish mm drive shaft i can use for a little more engagement?
#600
Tech Adept