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Old 03-27-2017, 07:51 AM
  #301  
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I sure hope you guys are right... 5 minutes at the track, a jump that I landed on the wheels, and then having to spend $45 in replacement parts kind of sucks.... heck, the tires didn't even get dusty yet.

I'm really second guessing my decision now... can anyone at all maybe elaborate on the durability of this truck?
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:59 AM
  #302  
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Originally Posted by sylv456
Hi,
With the new gear diff being metal, do you run a plastic idle great in the 3 gears box?
Cheers
.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:00 AM
  #303  
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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy
So, I just took my truck out to the local track. I was taking it easy, not running it hard or anything. On about my fifth lap, went over a jump and saw parts go flying. Truck just sat there. One of the track marshals picked up all the pieces he could find... turns out, the aluminum rear pivot block broke off on the right side. I thought with being aluminum, this wouldn't happen.

I'm sure it could have been a freak incident, but it upsets me that this broke my first time to the track. Is this normal? I don't plan on jumping this car off of 10 foot jumps or anything, but I do want something that is tough and can take a little bit of a beating. I'm just sick at my stomach over this... I went with what I thought was a superior kit (over a Traxxas Slash)... I hope I wasn't wrong in doing so....

So, if this is a common occurrence, do I need to keep a few of these rear pivot blocks on hand?? At $30 bucks a pop, I can't afford to break one every time I go to the track...
That is not a common break by any means, and it would definitely take a solid impact to affect that part.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:02 AM
  #304  
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Seriously that was a fluke. It may have been a bad part (material crack or something similar) The entire 22 series is tough. These cars will take a beating. This is far from "normal"
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:05 AM
  #305  
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Here is a picture....

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Old 03-27-2017, 08:19 AM
  #306  
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That is weird. Forces from going forward don't result in a break like that. That is either landing nose high on the rear wheel or getting clobbered from the rear. Either way first I have seen of this happening.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:29 AM
  #307  
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yea, and like I said, if I had been jumping onto a pile of rocks or something, I wouldn't be complaining.

Here is a picture of the little track I was at:


I was on the back section (near the rear wall in the photo) went up the little jump and landed right below the last "O" in the word SUNOCO. I think the rear wheels hit first, but only a second before the front ones hit. Obviously, it's a very small track, so speed wasn't really a factor, lol... maybe there was just a hairline fracture or something in the part from when it was tapped... I don't know. Hopefully the next one will yield better results.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:44 AM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy
I sure hope you guys are right... 5 minutes at the track, a jump that I landed on the wheels, and then having to spend $45 in replacement parts kind of sucks.... heck, the tires didn't even get dusty yet.

I'm really second guessing my decision now... can anyone at all maybe elaborate on the durability of this truck?
The truck is durable. I have 2 no broken parts yet (knock on wood) but if your worried about it exotek makes a steel rear arm mount #1654
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22 SCT 3.0-exotek.jpg  
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:08 AM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy
I sure hope you guys are right... 5 minutes at the track, a jump that I landed on the wheels, and then having to spend $45 in replacement parts kind of sucks.... heck, the tires didn't even get dusty yet.

I'm really second guessing my decision now... can anyone at all maybe elaborate on the durability of this truck?
Both my kids race in novice class with a 22SCT 2.0 that has the same rear setup. They are 8 and 10 years old and smash it around A LOT. They hit big jumps and don't land gracefully, and smash into all the other novice racers all the time. No broken parts.
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:14 PM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by Wg931
Anybody got Dakotas desert classic setup? Thanks
Curious about the same thing. I assume with all the racing going on that they just haven't had the time to get it uploaded.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:02 PM
  #311  
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when i raced my 2.0 i was racing against BBE converted SC5ms.
their was a few instances they tried to break me and failed, they broke not me.
these trucks are strong. casper is right about that.
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Old 03-30-2017, 07:04 AM
  #312  
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Well, got the new part yesterday and put it on and went to the track last night. Got a few scraps in the rear on the bottom of the chassis, but the truck held up well and I was really pleased. Still need some tuning with my braking and reverse delays, but that's not too big of a deal.

All I can think, in looking at the marks on the chassis and how the part broke before, is that maybe I was bottoming out in area on the track.... but I'm not sure. I did know the piece I broke said "LRC" and the new piece said "HRC". It seems from my research, the LRC allows the chassis to drop slightly more. I did also extend my shocks a little (tightened the springs) as the initial setting allowed a good bit of droop and the car sat fairly low. This did help prevent the chassis from hitting the ground or being very close to the ground when the shocks compress.


Now, on all four corners, my shock adjusters are almost at the bottom of the threads on the shock towers. I feel like at this point, maybe I should consider running a different oil or springs. Would anyone have suggestions? Are the stock pink springs the best? I'm also running the stock oil that came with the truck.
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Old 03-30-2017, 08:32 AM
  #313  
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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy
Well, got the new part yesterday and put it on and went to the track last night. Got a few scraps in the rear on the bottom of the chassis, but the truck held up well and I was really pleased. Still need some tuning with my braking and reverse delays, but that's not too big of a deal.

All I can think, in looking at the marks on the chassis and how the part broke before, is that maybe I was bottoming out in area on the track.... but I'm not sure. I did know the piece I broke said "LRC" and the new piece said "HRC". It seems from my research, the LRC allows the chassis to drop slightly more. I did also extend my shocks a little (tightened the springs) as the initial setting allowed a good bit of droop and the car sat fairly low. This did help prevent the chassis from hitting the ground or being very close to the ground when the shocks compress.


Now, on all four corners, my shock adjusters are almost at the bottom of the threads on the shock towers. I feel like at this point, maybe I should consider running a different oil or springs. Would anyone have suggestions? Are the stock pink springs the best? I'm also running the stock oil that came with the truck.
LRC = low roll center
HRC= high roll center

The HRC mount is more suited for high traction tracks like carpet and turf and is a tuning option. You may be better off running the LRC

Turning the shock collars down adjusts your ride height. Most run 26mm to 30mm. The stock springs and oil are good starting points.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:59 PM
  #314  
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Hey frank u got Dakotas desert classic setup yet? Thanks
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:20 AM
  #315  
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Default losi vs AE.

Getting back into sc racing after a couple of years and run on an outdoor loose low traction clay track with good size jumps and comparing the Losi 3.0 and the Associated sc truck as last time i ran it was rear motor but seems to be mid now and how do the 2x compare for my track as ran associated rear motor last time and was very good but have had other losi cars and a big fan.
Thanks.
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