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Old 01-02-2006, 11:34 PM   #1
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Default MF1 advice for a newbie

Just picked up a used (but very nice and hopped-up) Mf1 and would like some advice from the off-road guys. I started racing TC a year ago and bought this so I can have some fun on the street/yard, but also get into some occasional racing. What bodies work the best? What spur/pinion is a good starting point for stock? and what motor(I was thinking of using a p2k2 I had laying around)? And finally what are some good tire choices should I get a chance to race--- any knowlege about the best performance of this chassis is welcomed, To me it looks as if it is still superior quality to any of the other brands available. Losi guys share the tips!
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Old 01-03-2006, 02:08 AM   #2
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ohhhh...my goodness...you asked a LOADED question.

Tires, Motors and Chassis will all depend on your track and it's conditions. In general, next time you're out there, ask one of the fast guys what's working for them, because odds are, they've got the hot ticket already.

Tires:
Basically, the harder packed the dirt on the track, like clay, the smaller pin you will run on the tire. So, Clay tracks will generally use a "taper Pin" tire. Wheras loamy, deep, rutty tracks may use a larger pin like the "Kingpin" or "Ifmar Pin" The deeper the top-layer of dirt gets, the larger pin you'll need on the tire to compensate.

Motor/gearing:
For the P2K2, the hot gearing has been 18/86. I personally liked the feel of an 18/88, but I run on a small, tight track, so I need the extra punch out of the corners. The smaller the track, the higher the ratio, the larger the track, the lower the ratio. The hot motor in my opinion is the MHP (monster horse power) stock motor. They're just a really all around great motor. again, ask the fast guys in your class what they're running.

Body:
This is where it comes down to user preferance. I like the standard matt francis 1 fury body. I think it's a beautiful body, ultra low profile, aerodynamic and just cool looking! The new MF2 body doens't to anything for me, but some swear by the handeling characteristics it presents. I've ran them all, I couldn't tell ya!

Chassis setup:
again, the fast guys know their stuff...but, a good starting point is always the stock (default) setup losi provided for the MF1, you can find it here: http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpe...xtnatsmatt.jpg I personally like the Brian Kinwals setup....which many people have come to use is:

Front:
32.5 wt oil
.125 (or just find the largest internal limiter you can find...use that one)internal limiters
2"blue spring located inside on tower and arm
camber link 3b with 2 washers
camber at -1
toe at -1

Rear:
32.5 wt oil
no limiter
2.75" yellow spring located outside on tower and arm
camber link 2a
hub carrier spaced into the middle on the arm
1 spacer under front of arm carrier for anti squat
camber at 0

That should do it for now! I hope it helped a little...let us know if you have any more questions! Also, don't forget to make a trip out to your track and ask questions!!! the fast guys know their stuff!

later!
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Old 01-03-2006, 05:02 AM   #3
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Thanks for the info guys I have just picked up a MF1 to race offroad this year do you have any setup secrets for a modified truck with gearing or what motor to run.

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Old 01-03-2006, 10:25 AM   #4
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That should do it for now! I hope it helped a little...let us know if you have any more questions! Also, don't forget to make a trip out to your track and ask questions!!! the fast guys know their stuff!

later![/QUOTE]

Thanks alot for all the imfo, I dont have a manual so all of that should get me going It's been years (around 8-9) since I touched off-road. TC has been relatively fun but jumping and blasting berms is the s#*t!
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Old 01-03-2006, 12:50 PM   #5
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You picked a great truck there and I'm sure you'll like it.

If you need the manual, here it is:
http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/XXXT_MF/Complete.pdf


You might want to right click the link and select save link as to download it rather than opening the pdf directly in the browser. It's kind of large.
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:19 PM   #6
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If you start with the recommended setup in the manuel, and check with the local guys at the track you run at for tire and motor choices you'll be allright and have a lot of fun as well.
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:25 PM   #7
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Gear it to the moon. Most stockers are not very effecient at high rpms. This means they will never reach their top end speed with typical gearing. I typicaly ran 3-4 teeth fewer on the pinion then recomended. This will give you much more punch through the entire power band. The car will not give up anything on the straight to a lower gear ratio and you will be able to out accel other cars you are running against. Even on a fast track you will utilize that mid range power,around the 15 mph range. You will still hit 25 mph faster then the other cars would. Most people don't like to run their cars geared like this because it will eat up motors if the comm and brushes are not taken care of. Keep a clean comm and good brushes on and a high gearing should be rocking.
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by party_wagon
Gear it to the moon. Most stockers are not very effecient at high rpms. This means they will never reach their top end speed with typical gearing. I typicaly ran 3-4 teeth fewer on the pinion then recomended. This will give you much more punch through the entire power band. The car will not give up anything on the straight to a lower gear ratio and you will be able to out accel other cars you are running against. Even on a fast track you will utilize that mid range power,around the 15 mph range. You will still hit 25 mph faster then the other cars would. Most people don't like to run their cars geared like this because it will eat up motors if the comm and brushes are not taken care of. Keep a clean comm and good brushes on and a high gearing should be rocking.
Alright, will try this- however I was thinking that less teeth on the pinion meant gearing it lower (more initial rpm and torque but less overall top speed). It's like when I think off the 4WD low on my Blazer, it wont have regular top-end but it will have more bottom-end torque to use. Correct me if I'm wrong on this it's just the understanding that I had. Also I've had more trouble smoking motors by having too big a pinion before (I learned to stop that real quick ). Thank you for your advice, all is welcome...
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:06 AM   #9
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A lower gear ratio = More RPM/top speed
A higher gear ratio = More torque
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Old 01-04-2006, 06:34 AM   #10
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This is another n00b question, I don't know what you mean when you say high an low gear ratio. For example, which is the higher gear ratio: 18/86 or 19/86?

This is confusing to me, I ran my P2K2 in my MF2 with 18/86 and it was REALLY slow, especially down the stretch. party_wagon, from your post it seems I should be using a 14/86? I found better performance with 21/86.

As you can see I need some advice here, Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:03 AM   #11
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19/86 would be a higher ratio. Going up on the pinion, or down on the spur gives you a higer ratio. Going the other way on each does the opposite. Changing one tooth on the pinion will feel like changine 3 or 4 teeth on the spur.
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