rvrslt1

iTrader: (35)

Sorry for all the drama this post may have caused.. Did not know we have so many sensitive people when it comes to the RC hobby. I am just looking for a good gearing set up for a B44.3 to run in the 13.5 4wd buggy class. I have gone with the B44.3 due to getting a good deal on a nice roller. Nothing to do with one being that much better than another. I am in this hobby to have fun. That’s it.
Thank you for all the help

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

There are a lot of variables when it comes to gearing. My suggestion, talk to guys at the track you plan to run on. I bet most of them are straight shooters. But wherever you start, always check the temp of the motor so you don't burn it up on accident.

Sorcerer001

iTrader: (20)

Our local dirt track has started a 13.5 4wd class, everyone participating is having a blast. One of the big problems with mod four wheel is the level of attrition. At the club level, I've seen a class of 10 get whittled down to two cars by the buzzer on several occasions. Lots of guys with the "Gotta go fast" mentality jump on the 4 wheel mod bandwagon, and end up pile-driving the cars in to the wall or other cars before the race is half over. 13.5 lap times are remarkably close to the average mod lap time due to the fact (as likely previously mentioned) that more drivers are able to control the car. Wheelers are seeing far more use at our track because of the class - and breakage is at an all-time low. All of the cars are pretty great at this point, but a free running shaft car will likely have a slight power advantage. To the guy that said the 44.3 sucks - we'll have to agree to disagree. Great car, free running, handles amazing... The issue of front arm durability is an easy one to fix with the RPM replacements.
4wd is kind of a funny class - I've seen a few guys show up with original Losi XX4's modified slightly to run a shorty come out and win against modern cars. Older Lazer ZX-5's and 44's don't seem to be at a disadvantage on the local level, either. Parts support would be my main concern - not an issue with the Associated cars.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

dont worry about the drama, nothing new.

Gearing nowadays depends on what motor combo you use (rotor,stator) i can tell you that on my losi 224 with a 13.5 T rotor/T stator i run 28/76 and never change it for any track. Car comes off right at 165 with no fan. I do suggest getting a torque spec motor for whatever brand you end up with. Setup wise i have found that with 13.5 i never change my setup besides front springs. I run three different tracks and while i am constantly chainging my 2w setup 4w is always good but maybe thats the car more than 13.5.

Sorcerer001

iTrader: (20)

Welcome to the racing side of the hobby! I'm convinced that a professional mediator or retired marriage counselor could do well by soliciting racing forums. Pre-internet, most of the nasty smack talking remained trapped in our heads, because, you know - it's not nice to be an a-hole to someone's face. Too many racers are using it to air dirty laundry these days, whether it's directed towards a local racer, or at fans of a specific brand/car/track/whatever.
The B44.3 is a great choice, whether for mod or 13.5. If it doesn't have the RPM front arms, do yourself a favor and pick them up.

rvrslt1

iTrader: (35)

I have an extra Tekin Gen2 13.5 motor I was going to use. Car does have the RPM arms and the B5M ball cups. Just looking for a good spot to start with the gearing. thanks

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Regardless of motor..IIRC the smallest spur gear you can get for the 44.3 is an 81? Without modification to the chassis, the largest pinion that will fit is a 30/31..I believe. When I ran 13.5 (not Tekin) in my 44.2 I ran a 78 or 81 (can't remember exactly) with a 28 pinion due to the track size.

81/28 would be a safe starting point, if my mind hasn't failed me.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

in general I use whatever novak recommended at the time for gearing FDRs for motors as a starting point for my 1/10 scale stuff regardless of manufacturers and then go off of temp and performance. At times this also has topping out towards the end of the longest straight thrown in as well like I do with my 1/8 stuff.

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/26

looks like FDR of 7 for 4wd buggy.

Any others using "torque" rotors in there vehicles? I am assuming that the classes are limit to "spec" torque rotors, no mod stuff in general that people are seeing or is more open by you?

SpongeX

iTrader: (1)

I was planning on switching my B44.2 to 13.5 this winter. I think it'll end up being more fun at my track.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

I found 26-27/76 is a good range for 13.5 in the B44.2/3, as others have pointed out, your motor and track will be variables.

As another mentioned, the B44.3 is limited somewhat in that the center gear diff only accepts down to an 81T or so. Many who use this car go back to the center slipper for this reason (and some don't like the center diff).

WillS

iTrader: (32)

Great motor. 30-35 timing (can timing) 26/81 gearing is a starting point

WillS

iTrader: (32)

I would honestly run the slipper instead of the gear diff and run a 78 spur.

rippen

iTrader: (11)

We went to the Stock Worlds @ Ohio Rc Factory last year and we all had a blast. When I got back home the following weekend I ran The same 13.5 @ our local track and took 2nd place in A main behind a driver that was running a 5.5 The point being it's about driving, not motor.

I geared my Yokomo Bmax 4 iii 81/23

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Why slipper with the gear diff? Drag? I have an xb4 with a slipper. Have a gear diff I haven't used so was wondering, thx!QUOTE=WillS;14649760]I would honestly run the slipper instead of the gear diff and run a 78 spur.[/QUOTE]

JsK

iTrader: (10)

The slipper is smaller in diameter so it allows more gearing options, also lighter than the center diff.