25LikesXX-4 Forum
08-22-2008, 09:08 AM
#751
FasterLouder, must be a Motorhead fan "Everything louder than everything else".
Probably AC/DC for sure, right?
Thanks for counting me in for a body kit, I just scored an extra XX4 and that would be perfect for that chassis!
Again, just let me know.
Probably AC/DC for sure, right?
Thanks for counting me in for a body kit, I just scored an extra XX4 and that would be perfect for that chassis!
Again, just let me know.
08-22-2008, 09:29 AM
#752
FasterLouder, PayPal is ready 
just shoot me a PM when your ready or you can send me an email @ [email protected] Thanks!
just shoot me a PM when your ready or you can send me an email @ [email protected] Thanks!
08-24-2008, 02:20 AM
#753
OK,Class 8 Bodies are on their way to me!
I paid $20 Euros for each body and $40 Euros to ship them to me in New Zealand.
$20 Euros worked out to US$29.50,when I paid for them.
Total was $280 Euros (US$414)*ouch*.
All I need to do,once they arrive,is get a quote for shipping a single body to the USA,add that into the price of the body,then convert the cost in $NZ to $US,pack 'em up and send 'em off.
Hopefully they should be here in a two to three weeks.
I still have four left...Anyone?
Strong Bad-You mentioned using 1" shouldered DU-BRO screws in XX-4 front suspension arms,do you have a DU-BRO part number for those?
I've been looking,but to no avail.
I'd order them from X-Factory,but all international shipping from X-Factory is US$27 & I recently stocked up on parts for my X-6,so I'd be paying a lot of $$$ for a couple of bolts and a drill bit.
Or,I could just wait 'till something on my X-6 breaks,which is NEVER!
Yep,don't mind a bit of Motorhead (Dr. Rock is a fave)...Good to play loud when taking my 950KG,380HP,302V8 powered '73 Ford Capri for a thrash
I paid $20 Euros for each body and $40 Euros to ship them to me in New Zealand.
$20 Euros worked out to US$29.50,when I paid for them.
Total was $280 Euros (US$414)*ouch*.
All I need to do,once they arrive,is get a quote for shipping a single body to the USA,add that into the price of the body,then convert the cost in $NZ to $US,pack 'em up and send 'em off.
Hopefully they should be here in a two to three weeks.
I still have four left...Anyone?
Strong Bad-You mentioned using 1" shouldered DU-BRO screws in XX-4 front suspension arms,do you have a DU-BRO part number for those?
I've been looking,but to no avail.
I'd order them from X-Factory,but all international shipping from X-Factory is US$27 & I recently stocked up on parts for my X-6,so I'd be paying a lot of $$$ for a couple of bolts and a drill bit.
Or,I could just wait 'till something on my X-6 breaks,which is NEVER!
Yep,don't mind a bit of Motorhead (Dr. Rock is a fave)...Good to play loud when taking my 950KG,380HP,302V8 powered '73 Ford Capri for a thrash
08-24-2008, 04:44 PM
#756
I found today, running an all plastic car (no chassis cut outs), lipo on the side, Mamba Brushless & standard Spektrum reciever, the car is under legal weight???? (Orion 3600 battery).
I had to add 1/4 oz (7 grams) and 2 quarters, using a house transponder to come in 2 grams over weight (1615
)
All was going well until the pipe moved in front of me today.....
If anyone is having doubts about setting the car up to use a lipo stick pack...dont, the car still works awesome...if you dont hit the pipes LMAO.
I had to add 1/4 oz (7 grams) and 2 quarters, using a house transponder to come in 2 grams over weight (1615
)All was going well until the pipe moved in front of me today.....
If anyone is having doubts about setting the car up to use a lipo stick pack...dont, the car still works awesome...if you dont hit the pipes LMAO.
08-25-2008, 02:15 AM
#757
F N-I'm guessing the Li-Po pack you used had something to do with your car being so light...
I'm having 'grip-roll' problems with my XX-4,it get's up on two wheels real easy,TOO easy,sometimes one wheel
.
I guess I should get some sway bars on my car as soon as I can.
Is anyone using the outer holes on their steering drag link?
I'm not sure if I've ever seen anyone using the outer holes,I have yet to try 'em.-how much and what effect does running them have?
Here's one that's been nagging me-Anyone know what this is?
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...76/j1b8040.jpg
I hope that works,I haven't sussed out how to insert pictures in this forum,yet...
Oh,regarding the Class 8 bodies,I'm not willing to take anyone's money until I know all's well and they've arrived.
Can't wait to dust the airbrush off and have at one of those truck bodies!
I'm having 'grip-roll' problems with my XX-4,it get's up on two wheels real easy,TOO easy,sometimes one wheel
.I guess I should get some sway bars on my car as soon as I can.
Is anyone using the outer holes on their steering drag link?
I'm not sure if I've ever seen anyone using the outer holes,I have yet to try 'em.-how much and what effect does running them have?
Here's one that's been nagging me-Anyone know what this is?
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...76/j1b8040.jpg
I hope that works,I haven't sussed out how to insert pictures in this forum,yet...
Oh,regarding the Class 8 bodies,I'm not willing to take anyone's money until I know all's well and they've arrived.
Can't wait to dust the airbrush off and have at one of those truck bodies!
08-25-2008, 02:18 AM
#758
'Curse those moving pipes...'
08-25-2008, 10:31 AM
#759
I raced my XXX4 with the front shock tower "mounting tab" glued back onto the chassis, worked out great.
I spent alot of time researching bonder/epoxies and found one that has hi impact and hi sheer strength properties.
I cartwheeled this thing several times (almost on purpose but not really) and the repair held up nicely.
I may be onto something.
This would have needed a replacement chassis and a few hours to reassemble the whole car!
I have a broken XX4 chassis and upper belt/diff covers I'm gonna try it on.
I'm gonna repair some broken shock towers and arms for the XX4 too.
I'm pretty sure it's gonna hold up cuz I tested the shock mount repair with a pair of pliers before racing and it didn't bust off.
If more tests are successful I will make this repair system available.
The adhesive is a little pricey, aerospace stuff you know but it seems to be storable for reuse.
Just think, maybe no more thrown out chassis? Maybe even repairing broken arms and shock towers and...
Reposted from OC/RC Raceway thread
I spent alot of time researching bonder/epoxies and found one that has hi impact and hi sheer strength properties.
I cartwheeled this thing several times (almost on purpose but not really) and the repair held up nicely.
I may be onto something.
This would have needed a replacement chassis and a few hours to reassemble the whole car!
I have a broken XX4 chassis and upper belt/diff covers I'm gonna try it on.
I'm gonna repair some broken shock towers and arms for the XX4 too.
I'm pretty sure it's gonna hold up cuz I tested the shock mount repair with a pair of pliers before racing and it didn't bust off.
If more tests are successful I will make this repair system available.
The adhesive is a little pricey, aerospace stuff you know but it seems to be storable for reuse.
Just think, maybe no more thrown out chassis? Maybe even repairing broken arms and shock towers and...
Reposted from OC/RC Raceway thread
08-26-2008, 10:07 PM
#760
F N CUDA-Are you still interested in a new XX-4 W E kit?
Newberry's Hobby Shop in Orion,Illinois has stock-I'm not sure how many he has left,but he's got one kit on E Bay,starting bid is $150-No reserve.
You can call Newberry's on 309 234 5567.
Seem to have solved my XX-4's tendency to traction roll way too easy,a simple matter of moving the shocks out to the hole closest to the wheel on the A-Arms.
Newberry's Hobby Shop in Orion,Illinois has stock-I'm not sure how many he has left,but he's got one kit on E Bay,starting bid is $150-No reserve.
You can call Newberry's on 309 234 5567.
Seem to have solved my XX-4's tendency to traction roll way too easy,a simple matter of moving the shocks out to the hole closest to the wheel on the A-Arms.
08-27-2008, 11:17 AM
#763
FasterLouder....do you have the front hub carriers shaved down where the camber link mounts to them? Removing the molded in "spacer" seems to be a popular mod, as it allows you to lower the link and mellow out the steering somewhat. Might help with your grip-roll problem without affecting the damping of the suspension.
08-28-2008, 10:14 AM
#765
Fasterlouder - I sent you a PM re: Class 8 bodies.
