MaX-D

iTrader: (2)

Get this book! It explains everything you need to know about setting up your truck. Never mind that it says touring car on it. It's great for off road as well.

TowerHobbies.com | XXX Main Racing Touring Car Chassis Setup Guide

88 Mclaren 5.0

I finally bit the bullet and ordered this kit ! I've haven't had a new rig in over three years now, so I'm super pumped to finally get back into racing again. This thread has been super helpful...... keep up the input guys!

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

So much said about springs and shocks. I also had problem getting ride height with the stock springs. I run the esc rear setup not that it mattered. It was more a spring length issue. Someone way back mentioned using Kyosho truck springs, Ordered a few sets and walla spring issue solved. Truck lands like butter and I can get the ride height I'm after

Barillms

Make sure your rear suspension isnt binding up. There are 3 things that bind up the rear end. First is the rear arms fit snug the ends rub on the inserts expecially when you add rear toe. Slightly taper the ends of the arms around the hing pin holes.
2nd: the rear link Rod end balls are tight in the rod ends. You need to squeeze the rod ends with pliars gently and the balls will free up.
3rd: the sway bars are too long. You have to trim about 1/4" off the ends of the rear sway bars, and it will free up the binding.

If the suspension isnt working freely... youll never get ride height.

GNCC407

iTrader: (12)

Quick question, I went from a Tekin 4600 Pro4 to a HW 3660SD G2 to be able to use full sensored mode and add turbo if needed on my SCT XR8. Ran it at practice and noticed I have to manipulate the throttle a bit more to keep the attitude in check while in the air on our big quad jump. Is this lack of KV or more engine torque from magnet strength.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Barillms has it lined out on the rear suspension bind.

There is much more to discus about the truck, but the spring issue has been a hot topic for good reason. Obviously the pre-production springs were much better than what some of us got in the kit. This is a big problem if your kit drags the ground like my truck did after a couple lipos and running the collars all the way down.

On the positive side, the handling has been great. Easier to drive than the 2.0 box settings. It soaks up everything without getting out of shape. The 22 style shocks work just about everywhere out of the box if springs are holding ride height. The kit pistons have been developed to a highly effective stage that is difficult to achieve for most end users. That is a big help to those who are not shock gurus. They also show no signs of wear or leakage. I do run balloon boots to keep seals clean.

I am impressed with how tight the truck is. The rod ends fit snug and the truck has less slop everywhere. Even after 50-75 lipos I can still brag on how good everything feels. I have noticed some slop in my rear diff pinion bearing. I suspect some of this is the bearings, but it might be soft plastic in the gear box as I noticed this on a couple of parts during the initial build. I will confirm this when I go through my rear diff in the near future and provide some feedback here. I have a new 2.0 gear box in the parts bin just in case. All the trimming I did on the rear a arms to free up the a arms is still perfect and free moving.

I tweaked a front a arm a few weeks ago in a really bad crash fighting for position on a large triple jump. I hit a metal hand rail and drove away to finish race. After race I tried twisting the a arm back in shape a little, but it seem to return to its original shape by the next day. A slightly bent dog bone was straighten and been fine since. Nothing has been replaced on the kit except springs and diff washers. I would venture to say it could last me all year with only a few parts such as bearings. That same crash did damage the rear bumper, but its still usable until I go through the rear diff. This was a crash most 1/8 buggies would not drive away from without damage, so this rig is durable.

There are only a few issues with this truck
and they are identified throughout this thread with solutions that work.

- Many of the kit springs are too short and too weak for truck duty.

- Rear hinge pins are too short, but cheap and easy to fix.

- The side to side chassis balance is off way more than I think it should be.

- I firmly believe the X-Ray diff washers greatly improve the diffs. I am testing the stock black diff seals and I think they are too soft as my outdrives are feeling loose, but not leaking yet. I have seen two trucks with black seals that are leaking. I have a fix for that.

Overall, I would give this truck top marks if TLR had the springs right and the right hinge pin length in the rear. A solid 10 out of 10. Even so, the handling is there and with a few changes it is nearly perfect as any truck is going to be.

Don't let the spring issue keep you from buying one. Maybe TLR will have some truck specific springs out soon. All they really need to do is offer the parts to make the 2.0 tuning spring kits fit properly.

ASA

I run the same setup on my 2.0....try running the coast setting at level 1 or 2, it takes away that aggressive engine brake feel you get from the strong magnatism in our modern brushless motors.....makes it feel way more neutral and predictable in the air and more turn in grip on looser tracks when off throttle.

GNCC407

iTrader: (12)

ASA, I'll tinker with the coast a bit. Forgot about that setting. Thanks.

PIHGUAM1

Mr. Root was there a reason for using the shorter springs for the 3.0?

Just does not seem right to run the adjusters to the bottom of the threads to attain a suitable ride height.

I just completed my build and will have it on the track this weekend. Only tested in the driveway so far. Will report on the handling and if this is an issue after the race.

Always appreciate your support Frank.

cobrajet

iTrader: (5)

Just got mine built up over the weekend, just need the tires and motor to show up. I've never dealt with a electric off-road vehicle, just nitro 1/8scales, my first impression was they made this thing has light as possible. Dumping aluminum for plastics and making parts and hard ware as small has possible including the shocks. Not bashing on the truck, it looks very well thought out and I'm surprised on how light it is for how big it is. I do fell the shocks are a little too much of a compromise but still adequate.

Now I do have a question. I have a precut Flo Tek raptor and the stock pre cut body and the tires rub bad, maybe its just the tires, I have proline BFG bajas on the stock wheels unglued has place holders for more track oriented tires. I read somewhere that the new losi wheels are offset more then others to give the truck maximum track width. I've trimmed the Flo Tek for it to work up the body still is mounted a bit higher for it to work.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

Dont know if this will fix your issue as I havent run a Tekin motor for ages but dial in a little of the coast feature. Truck didnt try to nose dive at all over jumps.

88 Mclaren 5.0

So, it's down to the motor choice now.... I've got the 3.0 kit on the way, I just ordered the HWing XR8 SCT esc... Now I see the HWing 3660SD for heavy duty SCT, and the HWing 3652SD for light duty.... Looking for some good feedback here..... Do I "have" to go with the 3660SD ? Would that be mostly because of the weight of the 3.0?

thirtydaZe

iTrader: (39)

this part number points to the entire diff housing, but concerning the screws,

TLR332001 x 4
M2.6 x 10mm

is that supposed to read M2.5? I stripped one, and want to replace it.

Also, as far as shimming the diff is concerned, can someone give me some part numbers? I know the x-ray ones, but what are people using around the out drives?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

No they are odd ball. others have found HPI makes them as well.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

I run the 3652 on my 3.0 with no issues. Never felt the need for the large can motors. Just adding weight to a platform that doesn't need it IMO. The 3652 G2 motor is silly fast in 4300kv flavor and plenty of TQ to get the Losi moving even on very high bite. Only problem is Hobbywing direct is out of them so you'll have to go through another retailer to find it.