Deton8er

That's true Floyd. One common denominator both times this happened was the tires. I ran holeshots all day practicing with no issues. Ran holshots in the qualifiers
Then I threw on brand new blockades and brand new rims from the kit. Blew the wheels out.
Two weekends in a row, same exact scenarios.
I did tear the truck down Saturday night. When I did I noticed all the bearings in the hubs were "crunchy".
I just ordered all new bearings, aluminum rear hubs, and rims of course....

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

First all day track day and race. Rear springs are too soft. I get 22mm ride ht with collars cranked all the way down and suspension totally free from bind.

Otherwise, TQ and second in main are strong showing from new rig. It needs suspension work before I can properly adjust other things. Felt like I could swap 2.0 shocks and tower, which is dialed, onto the truck and have a winner. None are perfect out of the box. Rear springs that hold the truck up are first on the list. Right now though, its a close tie with my 2.0 that has years of time on setup. Good out of the box, but needs TLC.

floyd2810

ya, thats where i would start. keep us posted what you find out.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

Building a fresh kit today. So far so good. Everything fits great. Wish it came with locking wheel hexs but that was known going in. No binding on any front end parts. Was disappointed I couldn't use the aluminum 15 degree caster blocks I bought for the 2.0. New arms won't allow for them without modification. Looking forward to finishing it up later this week when a few items arrive for it.

raved007

iTrader: (36)

I have 15* caster block what i did i flip the bushing and it fit inside the front arm

JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

Steering issues... I cant find the bind, and there is definitely one. I spent about 15 minutes fiddling with it, I will probably tear it down and refollow the directions. All my measurements are right on the nose. with a quick glance i'm following all the right mounting points.

full right "lock"


full left "lock"


hub side


ankerman side

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

The ackerman plate is upside-down. Bearing flange should be on the bottom. That gives you clearance for the bolt heads of the steering rods on the bell-crank. Two screws, flip and good to go. If you still have slight bind back screws out a little until it turns free.

JMURACN

iTrader: (11)

thanks! and i got your PM...

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Welcome. She looks good. Smooth build and will get better after its broke in and cleaned a time or two. Enjoy the build.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The 3.0 comes with updated +2 caster blocks. The molded these for 3.0 as part of the upgrade. No need for alum caster blocks.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

I know Casper. I just wanted the durability and I like how open the Aluminum blocks are. just looks cleaner. I may try flipping the bushings

Casper

iTrader: (34)

It as never done for durability. Actually the first alum ones were 6061 and bent! LOL

They do look cool but I have had no issues with plastic ones from a durability standpoint.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

Way to support TLR options factory guy LOL

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I am not here to hawk option parts. I do what I can to provide support for products of companies that support me so people have fun with their cars. Not here to empty your wallet.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

If you don't feel you need to spend $ on an aluminum version of a part to get acceptable durability, then we've done a better job lowering the "buy-in" price of the kit and increasing the value. The cars with the highest value, tend the be the most popular.

I don't mind aluminum parts that take durability to a higher level for those that want it, or change geometry to give more options or increase performance between vehicle releases. Those are the best option parts for you, the consumer. Not the ones you feel like you "have to buy" to make the durability of your rig "acceptable."