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Old 02-15-2017, 04:30 PM
  #1156  
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Originally Posted by Josh L
Are you running the +4 mm "tall" spring perches on the front? You really need to run them on all four corners, but some of the early kits only came from the factory with two talls and two short perches making it impossible to get ride height from a fresh build.
If that is your problem, Horizon will make this good if you call them.

22 spring cups (standard and +4mm)
I just finished building mine and had two +0mm spring perches. So it is still an issue. Fortunately I had some taller +4mm ones left over from an AE build so I used those.
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Old 02-15-2017, 04:32 PM
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What are some good ways to shed weight on this truck? Im at 6lb 8.5oz right now currently ready to race. I've seen Casper say ditch the nerf bars which I will do on the 1/8th track at Fastlane but racing tends to be in tighter packed groups on the 1/10th track and rough until you get out front so I'm gonna run them there to hopefully prolong body life some and keep from getting hung up.
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Old 02-15-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail
I'm sure you can shim it to fit and use longer screws. However, the 2.0 screw down mount would work best with much more adjustment. As for it actually fitting, there are so many brands and sizes of lipos these days there is no way to know for sure until you have lipo and truck on the bench in front of you. Good Luck with your choices. It should be a rocket on 3s.
Thanks, I was thinking maybe finding some Body posts of similar size but I'll look into the 2.0 fitment.

I have a 3000Kv pro4 Hd coming for it, I'm not sure how much faster it would be over a 4200 2cell. But running the 2 cell with it when I have too and the 3 cell is for a Large 5th scale track a co work built, he can care less about rules. Which leads me to question about fitting a different SCTN with 8th scale Ebuggie Electronics.
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Old 02-15-2017, 06:38 PM
  #1159  
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Originally Posted by cobrajet
Thanks, I was thinking maybe finding some Body posts of similar size but I'll look into the 2.0 fitment.

I have a 3000Kv pro4 Hd coming for it, I'm not sure how much faster it would be over a 4200 2cell. But running the 2 cell with it when I have too and the 3 cell is for a Large 5th scale track a co work built, he can care less about rules. Which leads me to question about fitting a different SCTN with 8th scale Ebuggie Electronics.
I own and have ran both motors but not in the new 3.0 The 3000kv is a brutal motor on 3s! Super smooth and controllable but on a sticky track it will break cvd's like crazy. I think 4300 is easier on parts but still way overkill. 3000 will run cool and not even know its pulling a 6.5lb truck on 3s at same or greater speed than 4300 on 2s.
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Old 02-15-2017, 08:59 PM
  #1160  
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Does any one know if the Losi 8IGHT-T E 3.0 battery tray https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...12/p451018?r=0 or even https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...241002/p265407
would fit without modding the chassis plate? This would allow me to run both sizes. Drilling and counter sinking a few holes isn't too difficult but I would rather not.
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:29 AM
  #1161  
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Originally Posted by Dirt4Life
What are some good ways to shed weight on this truck? Im at 6lb 8.5oz right now currently ready to race. I've seen Casper say ditch the nerf bars which I will do on the 1/8th track at Fastlane but racing tends to be in tighter packed groups on the 1/10th track and rough until you get out front so I'm gonna run them there to hopefully prolong body life some and keep from getting hung up.
I think you should leave the wt as is. If you must do something, look for discontinued titanium screw kit. Be selective on lipos, only run enough mah to finish race. Lighter tires, thinner body, all cost in durability or performance IMO. Titanium camber rods would help.

Best to spend money on setup, springs, tires, a good servo and electronics.
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:32 AM
  #1162  
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Originally Posted by cobrajet
Does any one know if the Losi 8IGHT-T E 3.0 battery tray https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...12/p451018?r=0 or even https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...241002/p265407
would fit without modding the chassis plate? This would allow me to run both sizes. Drilling and counter sinking a few holes isn't too difficult but I would rather not.
Not needed. Use 2.0 hardware and carbon lipo strap. It fits, no mods or issues.
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Old 02-16-2017, 09:13 AM
  #1163  
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail
Not needed. Use 2.0 hardware and carbon lipo strap. It fits, no mods or issues.
Thank you, ordered just that.
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh L
In short yes, there have been several mods done to these trucks, from the 1.0 through the 3.0
The largest talked about with the 3.0 is using the older 2.0 springs.
Then there is the mod where you can move the rear shocks to the front and build a longer bodied/shaft shock for the rear as well if you want full droop.
People are also moving the battery to the outside of the chassis pan which gives a more trued side to side weight bias.
You're the first I have heard that wants to run different make hinge pin braces made for another truck however, but now we can also chalk that one to the list of things done to the 3.0
Yes I read whole 77 pages and found few things usefull, going to move also rear shocks in front and use 22t shocks rear. And what I am doing with braces. I am using stock 3.0 braces, but grinding squares into those what are now ellipsis ( or something, you know what I mean) , so I can use Teknos adjustment parts for arm positions. Thats why I need to change pins also.
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Old 02-16-2017, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cobrajet
Thank you, ordered just that.

thanks fellas - i want to run the SPC 8200 mah soft pack (that they quit making) and of course it doesn't fit. this will be a great replacement. (losi 2.0 strap & tray)
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Old 02-16-2017, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Kipsi1980
Yes I read whole 77 pages and found few things useful, going to move also rear shocks in front and use 22t shocks rear. And what I am doing with braces. I am using stock 3.0 braces, but grinding squares into those what are now ellipsis ( or something, you know what I mean) , so I can use Teknos adjustment parts for arm positions. Thats why I need to change pins also.
You mean those little squares? You are rounding them off to fit in the hinge pin holders? Cool idea - since some of us have left over tuning parts from our old Tekno rides . . . Finally got mine built but no time before this weekend race to play with shock mods/upgrades. I have a ton of pistons and other things for 16mm shocks as I was trying (like all 410.3 owners) to tame the wild and out of control rear end. Great for indoor, terrible for outdoor. But now I have an awesome truck and I have all summer to play!!! I read all 77 pages too but was still confused. Congrads for getting it all
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Old 02-17-2017, 01:15 AM
  #1167  
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Originally Posted by doctorfeelgood5
You mean those little squares? You are rounding them off to fit in the hinge pin holders? Cool idea - since some of us have left over tuning parts from our old Tekno rides . . . Finally got mine built but no time before this weekend race to play with shock mods/upgrades. I have a ton of pistons and other things for 16mm shocks as I was trying (like all 410.3 owners) to tame the wild and out of control rear end. Great for indoor, terrible for outdoor. But now I have an awesome truck and I have all summer to play!!! I read all 77 pages too but was still confused. Congrads for getting it all
Yes , that is what I mean. Now with Losi stock braces and pin adjustment parts I have 3 positions that I can place arm in front or rear. After I do Tekno mod for arms, I have 17 different position for each brace, also I can raise or low whole pinline if needed, and get sweep adjustment with this mod.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:53 AM
  #1168  
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Originally Posted by Kipsi1980
Yes , that is what I mean. Now with Losi stock braces and pin adjustment parts I have 3 positions that I can place arm in front or rear. After I do Tekno mod for arms, I have 17 different position for each brace, also I can raise or low whole pinline if needed, and get sweep adjustment with this mod.
You mean 5 stock positions you can choose from. You can use 1 up 1 up or 1 down 1 down to move the "pinline" up and down.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:31 AM
  #1169  
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Hey guys, assembled my kit and wanted to ask if it's normal for the rear diff to be a little noisy. Just loud I guess is best to describe it. I double checked everything and made sure to apply the grease on ring and pinion. Also what is a good place to learn what all the adjustments do on the truck as in kick up.just getting into racing and not sure what it does. Did the factory recommended settings for now. Also has anyone modded the losi eight buggy reciever box to fit on this truck? Is it worth the trouble or just stick reciever to side of servo? Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:59 AM
  #1170  
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Originally Posted by Ebond009
Hey guys, assembled my kit and wanted to ask if it's normal for the rear diff to be a little noisy. Just loud I guess is best to describe it. I double checked everything and made sure to apply the grease on ring and pinion. Also what is a good place to learn what all the adjustments do on the truck as in kick up.just getting into racing and not sure what it does. Did the factory recommended settings for now. Also has anyone modded the losi eight buggy reciever box to fit on this truck? Is it worth the trouble or just stick reciever to side of servo? Thanks for all the help guys.
I would not call it noisy if assembled properly. Be sure you shim the diff ring and pinion for minimum backlash.
TLR tuning tips is a great place to start.
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf
Box will work, but I have yet to use it.
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