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Old 02-02-2017, 09:02 AM   #1096
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Thanks Josh! Grateful for the feedback as I'm looking for the best bang for my hard earned dollars! I'm looking more into the HWing products and the price looks good to me as well as the features. I'm looking to run primarily on an indoor small track, so it'll need to have torque for sure.
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Old 02-02-2017, 09:49 AM   #1097
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Default New Castle X ESC with all the bells and whistles

You know, the Castle stuff has always been bulletproof. I keep a MM Pro ESC, 3800kv and the V1 RTR blue 2700kv motor as a backup for my truck. It wont win a horsepower race these days, but I won a lot of races with them on small indoor tracks. Power is perfect for making mistake free laps. Most drivers would be faster using the SCT system.

Now for the good news!
MAMBA X, 25.2V WP ESC, 8A PEAK BEC, DATALOGGING

New Castle X ESC with all the bells and whistles and a warranty and service center on Oklahoma. Check out the specs on this new ESC and the price. I got to test one of these. Not sure they can match Tekin software, but this is a huge step up for the king of basher systems.

http://www.castlecreations.com/en/ma...sc-010-0155-00
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:43 AM   #1098
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I think I'm going to go with the Hobby Wing XR8 SCT esc, could I get a little more input on choosing a good HW motor for small indoor clay track? I really doubt I'd ever run outside with this rig as there aren't any close tracks to me. I was thinking the 4300kv ? Thanks guys for any input.
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:09 AM   #1099
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4300 or 4700 are typical motors from HW with this truck. I run the Tekin 4600KV always in my SCTE for reference.
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:24 AM   #1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0 View Post
I think I'm going to go with the Hobby Wing XR8 SCT esc, could I get a little more input on choosing a good HW motor for small indoor clay track? I really doubt I'd ever run outside with this rig as there aren't any close tracks to me. I was thinking the 4300kv ? Thanks guys for any input.
Was pretty happy with a cheap 2 Pole Turnigy with my XR8, smooth and good for small to med tracks
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Old 02-03-2017, 08:57 AM   #1101
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I have tested about every motor on 2 and 4s in the SCTE trucks. IMHO,the 4700kv is really fast and durable. I think it hangs with Tekin 4300HD motor, my favorite Tekin truck motor, with less heat. Both need a fan in summer heat. Bearings in the HW last longer because they are little bigger and motor is dustproof, a must have on my local outdoor track. HW 4000kv is also bulletproof, runs cooler, easier on lipo and nearly same speed with taller pinion. Tekin 4600 is a beast. Needs a fan and can be considered a battery hog. Still winning races though.
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Old 02-06-2017, 05:40 AM   #1102
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Hi again, folks.


(page 39-G-1) Part: TLR233005.

I'm assuming both, larger and smaller rubber bands go on the "Outside" of the shocks threads, and the other 4 pieces inside(?). Or maybe they seat in the caps? I appreciate some help with this.
Thanks

***I Got it figured out*** Please remove post if needed.

Last edited by ObuckiO; 02-06-2017 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:35 PM   #1103
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hey guys, can someone help out with the part numbers for these: TLR top plate and the TLR clamping hexes ? I've scanned prior pages but don't see them..... Thanks !
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:02 PM   #1104
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Another question, I've got lots of DE racing wheels..... however they are for the Slash 4x4. Would these just not be useable at all on the 3.0 ?? If yes, what would be the difference? Sorry for the type of question, but I'd be switching brands here to Losi and I've got about 8 sets of these wheels....
thanks again guys!
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:22 PM   #1105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0 View Post
hey guys, can someone help out with the part numbers for these: TLR top plate and the TLR clamping hexes ? I've scanned prior pages but don't see them..... Thanks !
Clamping hexes LOSB3493
+.05 offset for rear if you choose TLR332014

Alum top plate TLR331008


Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0 View Post
Another question, I've got lots of DE racing wheels..... however they are for the Slash 4x4. Would these just not be useable at all on the 3.0 ?? If yes, what would be the difference? Sorry for the type of question, but I'd be switching brands here to Losi and I've got about 8 sets of these wheels....
thanks again guys!
Slash wheels are offset. SCTE are considered +0. They technically would fit on the truck but make it WAY too wide and the wheels are no longer under the body.
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Last edited by Casper; 02-07-2017 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 02-07-2017, 02:39 PM   #1106
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Thanks Casper! I had thought as much about the DE wheels......
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Old 02-08-2017, 12:43 PM   #1107
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I bought a 3.0 kit yesterday and have read most of this thread. It appears the highlights are
- shimming the rear diff (like my Losi truggy...)
- the included rear red springs were/are flaky at best - this might not be true anymore?? either way I ordered a red rears and the front 'hard' pack which has the purple/brown/light blue. Since these are big bore shocks, all my spare Tekno springs will fit too. (I hope this is true)
- the +4 mm rear spring cups might be missing from the kit. I have a ton of these from my 44.2 and b5m kits, so maybe those will fit if this is still an issue.
- Xray diff washers
- 59mm hinge pins front and rear
- I am not changing the HW 120A SCT Pro/HW 4000KV combo that I already have since I am cheap and it works great.
- Recommended spares are front a arms and rears - however the manual shows a part number that is the same as the 2.0 so this part isn't new?
- the clamping hexes are highly recommended but that is another $20 I will spend later.

I don't see any other issues with the build. Can't wait for Motorama to test it out!
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Old 02-08-2017, 01:42 PM   #1108
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Tekno runs a 16mm shock I think. SCTE 3.0 is 12mm shocks. Springs not a chance with out adapters.
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:17 PM   #1109
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Best bet on springs are AE truck springs with stock 22 spring cups. Or use adapters to run bigger springs such as the 2.0 tuning springs. http://www.rctech.net/forum/14739098-post738.html

The rear a arms are same as 2.0 truck. All the front suspension parts are new, so need 3.0 parts for spares to include A-arms, Carriers and Hubs. Nothing wrong with HW setup. Clamping hex becomes a priority after you experience hex staying with wheel when you take it off and pin falling to the ground. They do fit snug though, so might not happen right away. Both front and rear diffs need to be shimmed properly for long life. This should be done on any RC with ring and pinion gear diffs.

Hope you like your new truck.
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:51 PM   #1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Best bet on springs are AE truck springs with stock 22 spring cups. Or use adapters to run bigger springs such as the 2.0 tuning springs. http://www.rctech.net/forum/14739098-post738.html

The rear a arms are same as 2.0 truck. All the front suspension parts are new, so need 3.0 parts for spares to include A-arms, Carriers and Hubs. Nothing wrong with HW setup. Clamping hex becomes a priority after you experience hex staying with wheel when you take it off and pin falling to the ground. They do fit snug though, so might not happen right away. Both front and rear diffs need to be shimmed properly for long life. This should be done on any RC with ring and pinion gear diffs.

Hope you like your new truck.
Thanks for the info! I do have some AE truck springs, not sure if the cups will fit. Once i get the kit open, we will see what fits !
From the link above, the lower cups are stock 2.0 cups not 3.0 cups? are they different? Without the ability to machine something, not sure how to make something to hold the top of the spring . . . .
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