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Old 11-06-2016, 09:04 PM   #631
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I've raced my truck twice, once outdoors. Once yesterday indoors at a big race in NE Ohio.

Anyway... The rear suspension is sticky. For some reason something is binding up in the rear end its not as free as it needa to be.

Ive beveled the ends of the rear A arms and it's helped. But it's still not moving like it needs to.

I think its the sway bar, but not sure. Does anyone have any input on how to free this thing up?
You say beveled a arms, but you still need a little material shaved off the arm so its not clamped in between the suspension arm holders. I cleaned my pins and the holes with motor spray. That helped a lot. Also reamed the a arms at hinge pin and hub pins. Then a little dry Teflon lube.

The rod ends are snug. I cleaned, dry lube and slight squeeze with pliers and that made mine perfect. They have stayed that way with no slop. Same goes for sway bar links.

One thing might be the camber rod end on the hub side rubbing inside the top of the hub ears when you use the outside hole. I trim to fit here on 2.0 truck. Will do the same on 3.0 if I move any of the hub spacers.

Best way to find problems like this is testing each part one by one with shocks off. It really saves time to just take it apart and test each part with all others disconnected to eliminate them. As you add a part inspect for bind. It should be easy to see the problem this way.

I hate to say it, but don't overlook your springs, the shock mount bushings or shock ball ends.

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I use E6000 shoe goo type stuff. Its not glue. So its not permanent, and can be peeled off.

I order a 12"x12" sheet of 1/4" thick neoprene from. Ebay. I use E6000 and mount the ESC to the neoprene, and then again E6000 to the chassis. It won't go anywhere, trust me. Double sided tape doesn't work well enough for my preference. It always works loose.

The neoprene cushions the ESC and it won't break from hard hits.
I have used goop before and it worked great. The E6000 might be better. The goop doesn't seem to stick to the anodized 2.0 and 3.0 chassis as good as it did or does on others. I don't know why. Coating is like a nonstick pan to me, but does better after a good clean scrub with motor spray and alcohol. Wish chassis was flat, not milled out where ESC mounts. Thing about the 3M tape, no dry time!

I like the idea of a layer of neoprene under ESC. I have used it under lipos in E buggy. 1/8 thick seems like enough for ESC. 1/4 seems thick and it works against the lower CG idea and design, but if it saves ESC its worth it. Let me know how that works out. I like the idea of a soft mounted ESC.
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:23 PM   #632
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Default Almost ready...

Those of you who have had a chance to weigh your SCTE 3.0's...is this about right?

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Old 11-07-2016, 07:37 AM   #633
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Its your truck on a scale rtr , how could it not be in the ball park ? I mean , it is what it is ...
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Old 11-07-2016, 04:43 PM   #634
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Is anyone running a 1/10 ESC in this truck? I am currently running the Durango DESC410v2 at the mo and is more than happy with the smaller ESC....
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:40 PM   #635
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There are plenty of people running the hobbywing XR10 ESC, so yes I'd say it would be fine to do
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:58 PM   #636
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Question for guys already running the 3.0. On my 2.0 I used the Kings Head Center diff mount and motor mount. Early on I was told it helped with bearing failures. I see that Kings Head now offers the motor mount for the 3.0. Has the "issue" been resolved in the 3.0 or is the aftermarket mount advisable? Thanks guys.
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:08 PM   #637
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There are plenty of people running the hobbywing XR10 ESC, so yes I'd say it would be fine to do
Thanks mate
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:14 PM   #638
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Is anyone running a 1/10 ESC in this truck? I am currently running the Durango DESC410v2 at the mo and is more than happy with the smaller ESC....
I've been running orion r10.1 and same with my SCT410.3 with out any problem
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:18 PM   #639
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Originally Posted by rccars4scott View Post
Question for guys already running the 3.0. On my 2.0 I used the Kings Head Center diff mount and motor mount. Early on I was told it helped with bearing failures. I see that Kings Head now offers the motor mount for the 3.0. Has the "issue" been resolved in the 3.0 or is the aftermarket mount advisable? Thanks guys.
You can mount king head center diff. to your SCTE 3.0 nothing change same hole. I did my 2.0 and installed 3.0 chassis and king head center diff motor mount is same bolt in
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:10 PM   #640
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Those of you who have had a chance to weigh your SCTE 3.0's...is this about right?

Nice build. Glad to see someone concerned with details such as weight. You are using lighter parts than I have. My truck is 2821g or 6.2lbs RTRace without body. I installed the Associated springs that added a little weight, as did the longer screws here and there. I also have the Proline screw on body post, DE mud guards, 2.0 screw on lipo holder and added a spacer to push lipo to outer rail for balance. Tire and wheel choice can be a big difference in wt and I have heavier lug tires for outdoor track. Even so, I would say you are right on target for weight considering everything.

Tell me about that mount off the back of the servo?
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:34 AM   #641
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Default Tire glue

For those who glue tires to rims, what's the best and easiest to apply pro-
tire glue these days? Also what brand please. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:24 AM   #642
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I have tried a few brands(AKA,Wurth,etc....) but have found that Muchmore tyre glue is the best i have used to date and is pretty cheep from Amain
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:20 AM   #643
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That's a very opinionated subject, lol. I like Pro-Line for sct tires and AKA for 1/8th scale tires. The AKA sets way too fast for me to get a sct tire down in the channel of the rim. AKA holds better for me on 1/8th scale tires.
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:40 AM   #644
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I wont use anything but sweep thin glue now if I can help it . I know the thin sets pretty quickly for some, but it also wicks further around the tire in a smaller gap so I don't have to move the tires around as much. Literally a drop in 5 places around the tire and the glue will have wicked around the entire bead and adhered the whole thing. pretty awesome. If you are having trouble making nice , clean , strong glue jobs try the thin . I know you think it will be harder , but it really is easier. Just remember less is more ...
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:27 AM   #645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Trail View Post
Nice build. Glad to see someone concerned with details such as weight. You are using lighter parts than I have. My truck is 2821g or 6.2lbs RTRace without body. I installed the Associated springs that added a little weight, as did the longer screws here and there. I also have the Proline screw on body post, DE mud guards, 2.0 screw on lipo holder and added a spacer to push lipo to outer rail for balance. Tire and wheel choice can be a big difference in wt and I have heavier lug tires for outdoor track. Even so, I would say you are right on target for weight considering everything.

Tell me about that mount off the back of the servo?
Thanks for the feedback Thunder Trail My previous SCTE was a 1.0, I like the idea of the 2.0 screw on the lipo holder that you mentioned, gonna look it up. As for the mount, it's a: Jammin-Products-TEN-SCTE-2-0-Carbon-Center-Top-Plate-amp-Transponder-Mount. Appreciate the info!
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