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TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread

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Old 05-20-2019, 03:12 PM
  #2116  
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Originally Posted by zuki250 View Post
Hey guys...so I raced my 3.0 for the first time yesterday....the truck was absolute hot garbage....I used the factory set up wit the only difference was that I used red springs in the rear..pretty much Mayfield set up for a really loose hardpack track. The truck was super loose in the rear end and was kicking the ass up on every jump....what are you guys using in the rear...my 2.0 is money on this track...this thing right now not so much...any help would be great..
running stock setup 1 (or maybe half, dont recall) degree added toe
zero offset motor mount
my servo speed is super low - around 50%
5/5/3
40/32.5
AE grey springs

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Old 05-20-2019, 09:55 PM
  #2117  
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post


I've ran the 2016 Roar nats Maifield setup since I built mine and it's dialed on tracks from high bite to super loose. Sounds like you have some binding in the rear arms or shocks. Have you checked them?

Also he was running pretty thick shock oil that day, probably because it was hot. I've gone as high as 42.5/37.5 on a hot day to 30/25 on a really cold day.

Seconded, check for binding. Fully assembled with the shocks off, front and rear, the arms should drop under their own weight, or at the worst, move with little effort by hand. The front arms aren't usually a problem, but camber-links/tie-rods and the rear arms can be. If the rear arms are binding on the inside hinge pin when you tighten down the long back screws, look up-thread a bit to see how to relieve it by grinding just a tiny bit off under the rear hinge pin mount. If the camber links are binding, you can free them up by pinching them with a pair of pliers with the swivel-ball in them; I took and spritzed them with a bit of dry-lube and worked them around in the eye after I did the pinch, to help them stay freed-up. If the sway-bar links are sticking, do the same thing.
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:45 PM
  #2118  
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Did team Losi ever make a Split Center Diff Mount for the SCTE?
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:29 AM
  #2119  
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Originally Posted by Juglenaut View Post
Did team Losi ever make a Split Center Diff Mount for the SCTE?
Not that I can find. Only one they show is for the 8IGHTs.
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:31 PM
  #2120  
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Originally Posted by snowninja View Post
running stock setup 1 (or maybe half, dont recall) degree added toe
zero offset motor mount
my servo speed is super low - around 50%
5/5/3
40/32.5
AE grey springs
For what kind of track is this setup? (Grip)
I use my Ten-Scte : 7-7-5 (default setup) on Carpet
Have you got any suggestions for me?
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:43 PM
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Default Fine Tuning Carpet Set-up

I have been running and enjoying my SCTE 3.0 since its release. This forum has been a great help and a very interesting read. Recently the local outdoor track closed and an indoor carpet track opened. I have been doing a lot of testing to dial this truck in. There isn't many setup sheets to use as a guide and many of the local fast guys don't run SC indoors. Speed, gearing, temperatures, diff oils and tires have almost been dialed in. Suspension, ride height, foams, wheelbase and track width are still a work in progress. Can anyone help with…
· Suspension – of course the #2 most important item in RC (Tires #1) and I cannot seal them and therefore cannot properly test different pistons, oil or springs. Air is getting mixed into the oil within 20 strokes and just continues to get worse. I have rebuilt the shocks with all brand-new components (seals, spaces, x-rings, shafts and pistons). I have rebuilt them using dozens of tips and tricks from Horizons, pro’s and local fast guys. Any help on how to fix this problem would be very much appreciated.
· Ride Height – I am looking to get down to 14 or 15mm. With the large tires the arms will not be parallel to the ground and a lot of binding/pressure will be placed the outdrives, dog bones and hubs. The rear shocks will be under two much preload even with standard shock cups. Is there any diff shims, a hack to rise the rear diff, shorter springs available? Or is cutting 1 or 2 rings off a new set of springs the only way to achieve this height? Front springs are too short even with the +4mm shock cups as the preload ring doesn’t go down far enough.
· Foams – Schumacher Mini Pins in Yellow compound tires seem to be a good combination of wear and traction. They provide a low profile and flat carcass. Any suggestions on cell foams for front and rear?
· Wheelbase – Many of the top drivers use a long wheelbase and I figure a short base (less spacers in front) would be more advantageous. What would be the reasoning why longer is preferred on this high grip surface?
· Track Width – Any recommendation of the pieces/SKU # (locking hex’s, axel stubs, spacers, rims) to narrow the front and widen the rear?
Sorry for the long post. Looking for some help and wanted to give you some background. Thanks in advance for the assistance.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:01 AM
  #2122  
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Default Fine Tuning Carpet Set-up

I have been running and enjoying my SCTE 3.0 since its release. This forum has been a great help and a very interesting read. Recently the local outdoor track closed and an indoor carpet track opened. I have been doing a lot of testing to dial this truck in. There isn't many setup sheets to use as a guide and many of the local fast guys don't run SC indoors. Speed, gearing, temperatures, diff oils and tires have almost been dialed in. Suspension, ride height, foams, wheelbase and track width are still a work in progress. Can anyone help with…
· Suspension – of course the #2 most important item in RC (Tires #1) and I cannot seal them and therefore cannot properly test different pistons, oil or springs. Air is getting mixed into the oil within 20 strokes and just continues to get worse. I have rebuilt the shocks with all brand-new components (seals, spaces, x-rings, shafts and pistons). I have rebuilt them using dozens of tips and tricks from Horizons, pro’s and local fast guys. Any help on how to fix this problem would be very much appreciated.
· Ride Height – I am looking to get down to 14 or 15mm. With the large tires the arms will not be parallel to the ground and a lot of binding/pressure will be placed the outdrives, dog bones and hubs. The rear shocks will be under two much preload even with standard shock cups. Is there any diff shims, a hack to rise the rear diff, shorter springs available? Or is cutting 1 or 2 rings off a new set of springs the only way to achieve this height? Front springs are too short even with the +4mm shock cups as the preload ring doesn’t go down far enough.
· Foams – Schumacher Mini Pins in Yellow compound tires seem to be a good combination of wear and traction. They provide a low profile and flat carcass. Any suggestions on cell foams for front and rear?
· Wheelbase – Many of the top drivers use a long wheelbase and I figure a short base (less spacers in front) would be more advantageous. What would be the reasoning why longer is preferred on this high grip surface?
· Track Width – Any recommendation of the pieces/SKU # (locking hex’s, axel stubs, spacers, rims) to narrow the front and widen the rear?
Sorry for the long post. Looking for some help and wanted to give you some background. Thanks in advance for the assistance.
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Old 07-17-2019, 12:29 PM
  #2123  
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Default CNC Made Battery Block/ESC Mount

My Tekin RX8 Gen 2 fan was squealing, so I went to remove it. Then I noticed with the way I had it mounted with the battery in the front, ESC in the rear that I could not pull the fan out with out pulling the ESC out. This was because the motor and battery wires were on one side and the Center/Rear chassis brace was on the other. So now I have to get out the flathead screwdriver and pry up the esc from the newish double sided clear gel adhesive...

So I figured screw it, I will make a new ESC mount that is removable for easy cleaning and maintenance, but also serves as a battery block. So I made this on our Haas VF-4SS. I hollowed out the inside to make it as light as possible and it was surprisingly light weight. It can be used face up or down, so you can use it to mount the ESC up front or in the rear. It works the same way. In addition to increased ease of maintenance, it also allows you to also mount your ESC in 360 degrees which gives you more mounting flexibility.

Lastly, since it is flat on the top and bottom, your ESC tape should adhere better than having the chassis pockets offering interrupted contact with the ESC. Check it out!!

Mark








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Old 09-10-2019, 11:22 AM
  #2124  
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Any fix for shock cap seal o rings are so thin hard to keep them in cap.I used a old bladder (tlr 5089) cut out center works good.but cant get part anymore!
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:25 AM
  #2125  
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beautiful work!!! you should sell them!
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Old 09-10-2019, 02:00 PM
  #2126  
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Originally Posted by Tommy 2 Tone View Post
Any fix for shock cap seal o rings are so thin hard to keep them in cap.I used a old bladder (tlr 5089) cut out center works good.but cant get part anymore!
There's no o-ring in the cap on the 3.0 -- it goes on the base of the shock body.
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Old 09-10-2019, 04:09 PM
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Default Oils

Has anyone tried a much thicker front diff oil, looking for more front wheel pull/drive and less steering
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:55 AM
  #2128  
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Originally Posted by Tommy 2 Tone View Post
Any fix for shock cap seal o rings are so thin hard to keep them in cap.I used a old bladder (tlr 5089) cut out center works good.but cant get part anymore!
Might be better off reading through the SCTE 2.0 thread, since that's the one that has the o-ring in the cap. The 3.0 uses Gen2 shocks that have the o-ring around the top of the shock body.
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Old 09-12-2019, 12:04 PM
  #2129  
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Originally Posted by Lesdi View Post
Has anyone tried a much thicker front diff oil, looking for more front wheel pull/drive and less steering
Heavier front diff fluid will make the front diff behave more like a spool, less off-power/more on-power steering - it will want to push while coasting or braking, and steer more under power.
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tmk View Post
Heavier front diff fluid will make the front diff behave more like a spool, less off-power/more on-power steering - it will want to push while coasting or braking, and steer more under power.

Cheers, thanks for your input much appreciated
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