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Old 12-29-2018, 05:19 PM
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Looking at picking up one of these. Have a few questions. I have read that these can benefit from different seals and shims for the diff. Is it needed? I need bullet proof diffs as I plan to run 3s(mid to high 40mph range)
Is there anything this truck needs or could use to be upgraded to help durability?

Also this truck is a few years old now is there any news about it being replaced? Would hate to buy a new truck and have a new version show up shortly after.

How is part durability over all? Does this truck hold up?

Oh if the diffs could benefit from different parts does anyone know which parts it needs?
Thank you.
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by e-fanatic View Post
Looking at picking up one of these. Have a few questions. I have read that these can benefit from different seals and shims for the diff. Is it needed? I need bullet proof diffs as I plan to run 3s(mid to high 40mph range)
Is there anything this truck needs or could use to be upgraded to help durability?

Also this truck is a few years old now is there any news about it being replaced? Would hate to buy a new truck and have a new version show up shortly after.

How is part durability over all? Does this truck hold up?

Oh if the diffs could benefit from different parts does anyone know which parts it needs?
Thank you.
Honestly if you are planning on running 3s and not actually racing this truck I would pick a different machine. It sounds like you are going to do some hardcore bashing and I think you will want something that is more durable in a bashing sense. If you are planning on racing this truck most of the time I apologize. It is a very tough truck, but it is meant to be on a race track your cost of parts to fix it when you break it, and you will on 3s, will be a little gross. Get a 4wd slash and put as many life time warranty RPM parts on it and you will be a happy camper.
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Old 12-30-2018, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by djgrom View Post
Honestly if you are planning on running 3s and not actually racing this truck I would pick a different machine. It sounds like you are going to do some hardcore bashing and I think you will want something that is more durable in a bashing sense. If you are planning on racing this truck most of the time I apologize. It is a very tough truck, but it is meant to be on a race track your cost of parts to fix it when you break it, and you will on 3s, will be a little gross. Get a 4wd slash and put as many life time warranty RPM parts on it and you will be a happy camper.
Or buy a Tenacity SCT. Out-of-the-box ready for 3S packs - just change out the 16-tooth pinion gear for the 12-tooth gear included with it; same drivetrain as the 3.0, preassembled with radio.
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Old 12-30-2018, 06:47 AM
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I have a rustler 4x4 and an arrma talion for wall out bashing . I looking to do some VERY large oval racing and some back yard track racing with friends. They can get rough so that's the need for durability and the large oval is the need for 3s. I also have a losi 8te 3.0 and a losi 8e. With that said my losis are more durable than the traxxas and arrma. Was hoping the scte would be the same.
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by e-fanatic View Post
I have a rustler 4x4 and an arrma talion for wall out bashing . I looking to do some VERY large oval racing and some back yard track racing with friends. They can get rough so that's the need for durability and the large oval is the need for 3s. I also have a losi 8te 3.0 and a losi 8e. With that said my losis are more durable than the traxxas and arrma. Was hoping the scte would be the same.
Oh yeah the truck is durable as heck. I just wanted to point you in the direction of the other trucks if you had not considered them already. It sounds like though I have to eat my words. I had a ton of fun building the kit.
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by e-fanatic View Post
Looking at picking up one of these. Have a few questions. I have read that these can benefit from different seals and shims for the diff. Is it needed? I need bullet proof diffs as I plan to run 3s(mid to high 40mph range)
Is there anything this truck needs or could use to be upgraded to help durability?

Also this truck is a few years old now is there any news about it being replaced? Would hate to buy a new truck and have a new version show up shortly after.

How is part durability over all? Does this truck hold up?

Oh if the diffs could benefit from different parts does anyone know which parts it needs?
Thank you.
Definitely use the XRay shims in the diffs instead of the stock ones. Hands down difference. Stock shims were nearly gone, diffs crunchy after two weekends - rebuilt with the XRay shims, haven't even looked at them since, at least 6 months if not longer. Stock seals are OK as long as they aren't chewed up by the stock shims. Stick the seals in with black grease, and stick the shims down with black grease too; smear some between the shim and the sun gear on both sides before you put the gear in, helps hold stuff together while you assemble the diff and helps the shim and gear last longer still.

I've only ever broken one part on mine - a rear hub, but that was from being plowed into by an idiot driving a nitro-truggy full speed at the end of a straight with no concept of "brakes". About the only real weak-spot other than the diff-shims are the stock rims and hexes - they're not clamping hexes, and the rims are rather light-weight for the amount of abuse they take; I spun the hex out of one my first weekend with them, unfortunately. Recommend the option TLR clamping hexes and DE Racing Speedline rims instead. At this point the only parts I've needed to replace regularly are the spur-gear (obviously) and the wheel-nuts when the nylocks shell out.
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Old 01-08-2019, 03:16 AM
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Ten-scte 3.0
Are the factory settings (kit setup) working well on the carpet? What are your experiences in setup changes.
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:24 AM
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Ok im sorry if this has been asked before I've been going over this thread all morning and my eyes are freaking out on me at this point .lol. I want to get some more steering out of my 2.0 and was hoping I could use the fromt arms from the 3.0 and the 15degree front spindle carrier on a 2.0. It seems this would give me some more steering . What do you guys think ?
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Old 01-26-2019, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fastslash View Post
Ok im sorry if this has been asked before I've been going over this thread all morning and my eyes are freaking out on me at this point .lol. I want to get some more steering out of my 2.0 and was hoping I could use the fromt arms from the 3.0 and the 15degree front spindle carrier on a 2.0. It seems this would give me some more steering . What do you guys think ?
IIRC, 3.0 front arms/carriers/spindles are backward-compatible with the 2.0.
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:50 AM
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Just finished painting up a new body for my truck. I was going to use it as the practice body, but I think I might actually like it enough that I want to make it the paint scheme for all of my 2019 cars. I normally road race so this will be the start of my second year doing off road. I have one question for you guys though, with this particular body how many vents do you open up typically, or is there a good rule of thumb for a starting amount to open? We have two local off road tracks one is nice and big and wide open with huge jumps and the other is small and very technical. Both are really popular. Should I maybe use my main body (purpe/pink in background) for one track, and this for another one? I kind like this body too much though and am going to hate when I scuff it up for the first time.



Obligatory Side Shot


The otherside


I really like the colors, and the single use of copper only on the aero pieces I think makes it pop. If anyone can tell me where I can find blue anodized screws that are not TA please let me know.


So this is really my main question. Last year when I started racing I raced a TLR 2wd buggy, the 4wd associated buggy and then the stock body for the SCTE3. None of those really had a bunch of holes I could cut into the body. This body though from proline has a ton. So if anyone has advice on where to start to improve airflow please let me know I am all ears.


Dat butt.


I think it is really important to post up my copilot as she pretty much goes everywhere I do. She can't go to races though because she is a hunter, and cars count as food. We actually have a group of people at the dog park now who either bring other RC cars or "root beer" and we use the cars as a way to get all the hounds running and worn out. They have a ton of fun and I think you can find one of our videos on youtube. The park is also huge about the size of a football field fenced in. FUN.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tmk View Post
IIRC, 3.0 front arms/carriers/spindles are backward-compatible with the 2.0.
Thank you !!! I'm so glad you said that I pulled the trigger on the parts and didnt wait for a reply . Now I feel better about it .
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by djgrom View Post
Just finished painting up a new body for my truck. I was going to use it as the practice body, but I think I might actually like it enough that I want to make it the paint scheme for all of my 2019 cars. I normally road race so this will be the start of my second year doing off road. I have one question for you guys though, with this particular body how many vents do you open up typically, or is there a good rule of thumb for a starting amount to open? We have two local off road tracks one is nice and big and wide open with huge jumps and the other is small and very technical. Both are really popular. Should I maybe use my main body (purpe/pink in background) for one track, and this for another one? I kind like this body too much though and am going to hate when I scuff it up for the first time.



Obligatory Side Shot


The otherside


I really like the colors, and the single use of copper only on the aero pieces I think makes it pop. If anyone can tell me where I can find blue anodized screws that are not TA please let me know.


So this is really my main question. Last year when I started racing I raced a TLR 2wd buggy, the 4wd associated buggy and then the stock body for the SCTE3. None of those really had a bunch of holes I could cut into the body. This body though from proline has a ton. So if anyone has advice on where to start to improve airflow please let me know I am all ears.


Dat butt.


I think it is really important to post up my copilot as she pretty much goes everywhere I do. She can't go to races though because she is a hunter, and cars count as food. We actually have a group of people at the dog park now who either bring other RC cars or "root beer" and we use the cars as a way to get all the hounds running and worn out. They have a ton of fun and I think you can find one of our videos on youtube. The park is also huge about the size of a football field fenced in. FUN.
The page for EVO SC body on Pro-Line's website has pictures of a painted body with vents; here's one that gives a good look at where to cut:
https://www.prolineracing.com/images/3413_3_l.jpg
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Old 01-28-2019, 04:25 PM
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when is TLR going to convert to Metric?
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ussprinceton View Post
when is TLR going to convert to Metric?
They have been; it takes time, and money. At this point, about the only things left that haven't been are the 8IGHT-E and the SCTE. Of those two, they'll probably do the 8IGHT-E first, since it shares a lot of its chassis with the 8IGHT-X. The SCTE is an oddball since it's built off the TEN chassis, and it's the only thing in the racing program that uses it.
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