Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Sure, it helps to store it on a stand. Your springs settled. That's how a normal set of springs should be. They are not continuing to sag out. I would say you got into the better batch of springs I have heard about.

tvih

Yeah, mine just gradually but quickly got worse, but as mentioned even straight out of the box the front had to be with maxed preload to reach to optimal ride height. But it must be said, even with the AE spring now I don't think the car is that much higher than the optimal height even though the preload is maxed. I guess I should try to measure it better to see what it is currently and thus how much room there is to adjust.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Check two things. First is binding. With shocks disconnected from a arms the suspension should rise and fall unassisted. Turn it upside down, a arms fall to full up position. Right side up, a arms fall to full down position. If not fix this first. I had to ream rear a arms good and trim some off the ends of the a arms because they bind from being squeezed by the suspension holders. I took 1mm off the rear of the a arms on inner hinge pin side. Once this is done you can see how much slop is in the hinge pin holders or pills. This is caused by the hinge pin being too short. Search the thread for that info.

By the way, Shock Screws, nuts should only be run down, not tight. Easy way to understand this is with either the top or bottom of shock mount off to see if shock moves and rotates freely.

Second thing to check is the lower spring cups. Make sure you are using the taller cups front and rear. many kits were missing these or only had two in the kit. Those gray truck springs should be enough to get proper ride height. However, it is possible you got a weak set. Please share your findings.

tvih

The shocks do seem to move freely. All four cups were identical, though I lost one at the track at one point... replaced it with an AE 9mm (height) cup which seems just about the same height. Probably gonna change the remaining three as well and use the Losi ones as "emergency spares" instead. I do have plenty of 9mm AE cups since both the B5M and SC5M came with them as options (oddly apparently an uneven 5 with B5M unless I have lost a few, and a whopping 8 with SC5M) but I didn't use those in either. That's one thing I liked with the AE kits: plenty of option/spare parts - three different heights of the cups, lots and lots of pistons, alternate kickup, various inserts etc etc, while the SCTE had very little indeed left over after the build... basically just the one bag with option parts that other than the 0-degree motor plate wasn't even indicated/explained in the manual - the optional steering rack and a few other things (haven't really even looked at them yet). Had I not had the AE cups I would've had to run out and buy spare parts again. Darned TLR cheapskates

Anyway, maybe I made the new ride height sound worse than it is... and maybe I did expect at full (front) preload it being slightly higher based on visual inspection - but once measured it came out at rough 33-34mm, which I guess is higher than you'd ever actually use and for a decent spring even after wear plenty of room to adjust for sag. I lowered it roughly 25mm now and the preloads are now pretty normal. And I say roughly because my measurement method was a stickpack which is 24mm high, and for the higher setup I stacked some coins on it. Very scientific and exact

tvih

Finally the track is in drivable condition, and blasted through a few batteries today with the new springs. Definitely a lot better to drive now, and jumps a lot better again. Though much to my confusion before I even started driving I noticed the front had "sunk" since I adjusted it, had to add quite a bit more preload to get back to where it was. Strange stuff indeed.

Had a few nasty cartwheels and jump-crashed into that same darn pole again in the triple, but other than the body the car keeps on chuggin' without damage!

Riflebuilder

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I'm not trying to be "that guy" but I have been searching to find out which AE springs are the correct ones and I'm striking out. On A-Main there are Gray front and rear, but they are also in a Long and standard length. I'm not sure which ones to get. I was also going to get the +4mm cups, mine only came with 2 of them.

I'm guessing these are not correct.

http://https://www.amainhobbies.com/...c91338/p239798

And these would be what I need?

http://https://www.amainhobbies.com/...c91641/p449726

I'm half tempted to just try the 2.0 spring conversion, but I'm not trying to spend any more than what I need to. Thanks for the help.

Mark

tvih

Yeah, you'll want the longer ones. 91637 rear and 91641 front.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

There is a lot of info on springs in the 3.0 thread.
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread

There are some advantages to using the 2.0 TLR tuning springs but the cheap and simple fix is to use the AE springs. If the AE springs did not rub the shock body they would work for me. I rather have the slightly larger 2.0 spring setup myself. Let your time, experience in custom mods and wallet be your guide.

Team Associated 12mm Front Shock Spring (2) (Gray/4.45lbs) (54mm Long)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91637/p449723

Team Associated 12mm Rear Shock Spring (2) (Gray/2.60lbs) (72mm Long)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91641/p449726

TurboTodd

Any chance we can get Dakotah Phend and Tanner Denney scte 3.0 E-nats setups posted?
Thanks,
Todd

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

It would be interesting to see detailed pics and setup info. However, what they do on setup will likely not fit your driving style. These guys race so much they can make a poorly setup rig turn fast laps. Even so, the setups should eventually make it to one of these pages.

Team Losi TEN SCTE, TEN SCTE 2.0 & TEN SCTE 3.0 Setup Sheets

Team Losi Racing

https://www.facebook.com/FrankRootTLR/

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Looking to buy a 4wd SCT. What option parts does the 3.0 need. Appears to be pretty loaded with alum hangers front and rear with tuning adjustments via hanger inserts. Does the 3.0 come with the HD diffs? I see that the alloy rear gear box inserts are a needed pick up. Anything else please feel free to chime in as I prefer to incorporate options within the initial build. Anyone running 16mm shocks over smaller 22mm per the 22 SCT. If so what are people using. Normally I run on biger 8th scale dirt tracks hence bumpy big jumps and super loose. Thank you

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Truck needs a short list of parts. I like your approach. Build it right the first time. Starting with the first internal parts is best. It does have the HD diff cases from 2.0 truck. The Diffs need X-Ray washers for longevity. They seem to last forever.
R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...oof-diffs.html
Factory Diff seals will last longer with these washers. The Orange seals have yet to fail making them the perfect companion for the X-Ray washers.

Next:
The aluminum diff inserts with shims for the rear is a great item to keep proper ring and pinion mesh. Check rear gear box for soft plastic. Early kits had this issue, but have seen this in kits sold recently so its hit or miss. Just check the rear diff pinion by rocking it side to side noting slop over time. That way you can catch it before it damages anything. The 2.0 gear boxes are harder/stronger in my mind. Have seen a few housings wallowed out from diff pinion gear bearings. My bearings were still good when this happen.

Longer rear hinge pins. Suggest you run the 1mm longer 2.0 rear hinge pins, or the M2C 59mm Rear pins. m2c7102 LOSI SCT E REAR INNER TAPERED HINGE PIN 5701

IMO the upper steering plate to have is made by King headz. The plastic one flexes and I have broke a few on 2.0 truck. Pulled screws out on the Losi aluminum unit. This is the final one time fix:
King Headz, Inc.

Who would a thunk it... They didn't include clamping wheel hexes from 2.0 truck on the next race truck???? They give you the 1.0 hexes from V1 rig. Get the clamping hexes from the 2.0 so you are not looking for the hex pin that falls off in the dirt when doing wheel changes at the track.

That leaves us at shock springs. Too many variables to cover all of it here. Just use AE truck springs if you want easy and cheap. Search this thread for all the shock info. Long travel build is not for everyone, but good for outdoor tracks IMO.

Hope that was helpful. If you are serious about doing it right, check your left to right chassis balance once you get it loaded with electronics and lipo. If yours is off consider moving lipo.

Hope that helps get you started on an awesome truck build.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thunder Trail,

Wow! Thanks for all the great info my friend, as it is truly appreciated. It is always nice when getting ready to buy a new and thus unfimilar kit to have someone whom has experience point you in the right direction.

I am anal with all my cars, thus like to get started with any and all essential upgrades and aftermarket parts as super quality out of the gate provides much more fun.

Sounds like I can stick with the 2.0 shocks as long as I pick up AE springs.

Kings Head dual bearing motor mount ? Should I get it.

Machined piston sizes?

I see some guys referring to using Tekno diff out drives, thus as well Tekno Cvds and 6 mm stub axels. Is this a mod worth doing?

XRAY diff washers, longer hinge pin and the KH steering plate I will get as well as the other parts u advised.

Motor recommendations per KV, I have a lot of HWing stuff thus most likely may go with XR8 SCT pro and G2 motor. Thoughts. Thinking Protek 150s or 170s CBRAD Servo.



E clips per shocks any issues.

How is the over all durability of the 3.0 when built right and done in conjunction with the above option parts/aftermarket parts.

Thank you again and more thanks in advance as I may get on your nerves with more questions. lol

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

See my responses in blue abouve

raved007

iTrader: (36)

I really missed my SCTE 3.0 SOLD $800 ARTR lucky guy here bought my kit.