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Old 07-24-2017, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by PorTX View Post
Stopped by the track to measure my stock SCTE body. It measures 11 inches. The Proline Ram 2500 shows 9.5 inches. I see people posting comments that they are using the Proline Flotek bodies (some showing 9.0 inches and 9.2 inches wide) and "they fit like a glove"? Yet I don't see anyone posting pictures of these bodies on the SCTE?
It fits just fine. They measure from the bottom of the doors, the most narrow point. That helps determine if its wide enough for the chassis you have.

The reason you don't see people with the body mounted on their truck is that its not popular. Other designs are more sleek, lower profile and less drag.

Check the review tab at A Main. That sums it up well.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...441-00/p440217
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by PorTX View Post
Stopped by the track to measure my stock SCTE body. It measures 11 inches. The Proline Ram 2500 shows 9.5 inches. I see people posting comments that they are using the Proline Flotek bodies (some showing 9.0 inches and 9.2 inches wide) and "they fit like a glove"? Yet I don't see anyone posting pictures of these bodies on the SCTE?
I can't speak to the Ram body, but I made the change from the TLR body to the Pro-Line Tundra body this year and I am really happy with this body, fits well, looks good, drives well and A LOT more durable than the TLR body.
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:16 PM
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So, I've been considering this truck (again... even though I really shouldn't ). From some searching I did my understanding is that with +3mm offset wheels there could be clearance issues with the body? I'm asking because my current indoor tires as well as all but one outdoor set are with +3mm rims since my current cars are the SC10 2WD and SC10 4x4 (well actually I just got two sets of lightly used Hole Shots, but they have what looks like a +3mm Schumacher wheel, and the third set I got are the probably-0-offset Blockades since I think they were used in an SCTE).

So I'm just trying to factor in the potential cost of new wheels & tires if I can't use the existing ones - it'd be a noticeable bump in cost, though I suppose it'd be the same with the other 4WD contender, Tekno. And well, looking at the width of the SCTE I guess the car would become too wider for racing limits with the offsets anyway, but could at least use the existing wheels & tires for practise and not wear out my race set(s) immediately.
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:34 PM
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It would be very too wide for racing as well as having wheels fit in the body.
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:47 PM
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Most in Podium National Champion is SCTE 3.0. Best 4WD SCT in the market. Glad i switch to SCTE 3.0 and sold my 410.3
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:00 PM
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Actually I just realized that the KMC Hex wheels are apparently not +3mm, so at least one set of indoor Mini Pins should fit on the SCTE. So, I'd have enough to get started at least.
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:33 PM
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So what wheels are correct for the SCTE 3.0? I looked at the AKA premounts and it shows "wide"? None of the other brands say anything about wide? Are they not the same wheels that were used for the 1.0 and 2.0's?
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by PorTX View Post
So what wheels are correct for the SCTE 3.0? I looked at the AKA premounts and it shows "wide"? None of the other brands say anything about wide? Are they not the same wheels that were used for the 1.0 and 2.0's?
The wide on AKA refers to the tires footprint..... just pick the premounts for TLR scte or Tekno 410 and you will be sorted
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:06 AM
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You are looking for +0 offset wheels or ones that will state they are for the SCTE. DE makes a large variety of wheels for this truck in different styles and colors. Also for reference any wheels that are labeled for the 22SCT (1.0, 2.0, 3.0) will also work as they are the same offset.

TEN-SCTE
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:15 AM
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Hey guys, Hope its ok to post this question here. Im Running a 1.0 with mip kit, bulletproof diff build, dogbone center shafts and Its time to rebuild the truck. I need to replace some wore out plastics such as A arms and hub carriers etc. I was wondering if anyone knows what parts from the 2.0 and 3.0 will fit the 1.0? specifically if the 3.0 a arms and hubs will fit the 1.0. And If not what are my best bet on arms? Factory 1.0 arms? Will the bearing steering rack from the 3.0 fit the 1.0? Many thanks in advance.
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Old 07-25-2017, 12:15 PM
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Yes 3.0 arms and caster blocks will mount no problem. Rears really did not change that I can remember so good to go. Rear hubs have been updated and are stronger same geometry. Yes you can mount the ball bearing steering rack but will want to update the belcranks as well but that will all bolt on.
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Old 07-25-2017, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Yes 3.0 arms and caster blocks will mount no problem. Rears really did not change that I can remember so good to go. Rear hubs have been updated and are stronger same geometry. Yes you can mount the ball bearing steering rack but will want to update the belcranks as well but that will all bolt on.
Thanks a lot Casper
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:32 PM
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Should I use the ball cups Part# LOSB4023, or use the 3.0 cups Part# TLR234067, with the hard ball set. It looks to me like the only difference is the cup that attaches to the front outer carrier. If Im gonna go with the 3.0 steering setup and spindle the 3.0 cups should work right?

One other question, anyone know what BOTTOM shock caps fit Part# LOSB2834 + Part# LOSB2834. Just to clarify the cap that holds the seals in. I wanna upgrade my shocks while I am at it I still have the 1.0 rtr shocks. Will the plastic ones from my 1.0 shocks fit them?
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:58 PM
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While doing further research into the potential purchase I noticed the Losi spare part prices seem a bit higher compared to what I'm used to? Seems like a pair of a-arms for example costs nearly twice what it'd cost for my SC10 4x4, and spurs are twice the price as well. That combined with the fact that I don't have to pay shipping for AE parts vs paying 6.5€ for any Losi part orders... uh oh. Why can't there be a local Losi seller
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Old 07-25-2017, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tacobob89 View Post
Should I use the ball cups Part# LOSB4023, or use the 3.0 cups Part# TLR234067, with the hard ball set. It looks to me like the only difference is the cup that attaches to the front outer carrier. If Im gonna go with the 3.0 steering setup and spindle the 3.0 cups should work right?

One other question, anyone know what BOTTOM shock caps fit Part# LOSB2834 + Part# LOSB2834. Just to clarify the cap that holds the seals in. I wanna upgrade my shocks while I am at it I still have the 1.0 rtr shocks. Will the plastic ones from my 1.0 shocks fit them?
Ok yes on the 3.0 they made some angled rod ends for better clearance to the wheel with the new arm and spindle/caster blocks. I would recommend those. As for general rod ends they are basically the same since the begining. The Hard anodized balls seem to last longer than the original steel ones as the HA coating makes the balls very hard. Nothing has really changed here and those have all been around for a long time (minus the 3.0 steering offset rod ends). Before we had those we had to do a small amount of dremeling to get full throw without touching sutff. No big deal there. You can get upgrade shock parts for the SCTE shocks (get bleeder caps with the small screw in the side) You can also just upgrade to the 22 style shocks if your going down this path. Most springs to choose from and smoother lighter shocks.

Team Losi Racing Just another option

Originally Posted by tvih View Post
While doing further research into the potential purchase I noticed the Losi spare part prices seem a bit higher compared to what I'm used to? Seems like a pair of a-arms for example costs nearly twice what it'd cost for my SC10 4x4, and spurs are twice the price as well. That combined with the fact that I don't have to pay shipping for AE parts vs paying 6.5 for any Losi part orders... uh oh. Why can't there be a local Losi seller
Arms might be a little more expensive but they are super strong and I have never broken an arm. I have worn some out over years of use but I also went through trucks without ever touching arms. My point is a spare set should last the life of a truck as I would be surprised if you needed them. This truck is pretty bullet proof. Spurs should last the life of the car assuming the mesh is maintained properly and the motor does not shift. The TLR SCTE is one tough truck. The SC10 4X4, hate to bash on another truck but, it just sucked from the get go. It was a horrible design. It was a rare crash and burn from AE.
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