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Old 12-23-2005, 09:19 PM   #16
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Generally, your engines should run around 195-225 degrees Farenheit.

When someone says pinch, they are referring to the compression of the engine, how tight the piston assembly is in the engine's sleeve. It is a good thing that you loosen the engine's plug to get it started, but make sure you tighten it back up afterwards, because if you don't, air and dirt will enter the engine and cause it to do exactly what you've been telling us.

To check for air leaks in the fuel line, pinch one end and blow through the other. If air escapes, there is a small hole in the line. To test the tank, put a piece of tubing on the pressure fitting in the tank, and put a piece on the fuel outlet on the tank. Pinch the fuel outlet line, and blow in the pressure line. If air escapes (considering that the tubing is good) then you have a leak in the tank lid seal or there is a crack in the tank. To check your fuel filter, attach a piece of fuel tubing on both sides if the filter, pinch one end, and blow in the other. If air leaks, check the o-ring on the filter, and if it is bad, change it or replace the filter.

At this point, since you've been fiddling with the needles, the best thing would be to return to the stock carb settings and completely re-tune the engine. Please go to www.shengines.com to find the stock settings for the carb.

If you have any other questions, you can email me directly, I could probably answer them faster that way. My email is: [email protected]

I think you may have an air leak somewhere, most of the problems you're describing point to that.
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Old 12-23-2005, 09:23 PM   #17
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Also, I believe the needle you're referring to in the carburetor is the "Spray bar" (correct me if I'm wrong)? Generally, when the carburetor is fully opened, that bar should be all the way out of the housing. This differs from engine to engine though, so it'd be best to check with SH and see what they say.
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Old 12-23-2005, 11:15 PM   #18
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Now that we know what your needle setting are I am going to take a stab here and say you are way to rich on the bottom and your idle setting is to low with that rich bottom. Sounds to me like it just starving for air. In the past I have run some Sprotwerks engines. These engines are made by SH. They are the same as the SH .21 but with a different head. I have raced two and tuned many at the track. With all the SW engines I tuned on the LSN's were always around 1 to 1 3/4 turns out. I am pretty sure factory settings are LSN 2 and HSN 3 1/2. Find out for sure what the factory settings are and retune that thing.
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Old 12-23-2005, 11:17 PM   #19
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Oh and one other thing they like to run about 240* to 260*. Just make sure you have plenty of smoke. IMO the Sportwerks & SH engines are very under rated!
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Old 12-24-2005, 02:44 AM   #20
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mate yeah i just sent an email to you just before reading that and we seem to have the same idea on this well done and thankyou for your advise every time i question and queiry things gets me one step closer to problem solving and engine issues so thanks alot its much appreciated for your concern and by the way merry xmas, have a good one .thanks. check ur email out to see if it sent ok because the first mail i tried didnt go through but the second one seemed to go through..........regards ...........Aaron.
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Old 12-24-2005, 02:46 AM   #21
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oh and yeah the engine seemed to make that noise of air starving when the lit was on too so yeah thats the way it is ill lean it out and hopefully the hole in the windscreen will get max air flow which i wanted anyway ill just have to cover the inside with some mesh to stop stones from entering.
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Old 12-24-2005, 08:38 AM   #22
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240-260 is probably ideal for your area, and especially if you race outside. I race indoors on a tight track, so our engines don't get too hot.

Any way, best of luck getting everything tuned up right!!!!!

Speedbump57: I think you need to add the phrase "Engine Guru" in your signature!!!!!! I have a lot of experience with Novarossi based JP and RB engines, as well as OS engines, but there is no way that I could give that much information without seeing and hearing the engine run.

Just giving credit where credit is due!
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Old 12-24-2005, 09:55 AM   #23
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“Engine Guru” Hum……..I’m not sure if you are paying the Bumpster a compliment or are just being a little sarcastic. Either way I would not consider myself an expert in engine tuning. Like I said I was just taking a stab in the dark. I am just reading between the lines of what he is trying to tell us. If what he has told us is true and he is 4 on the LSN and 3 on the HSN and has an idle gap of 1mm then being too rich on the bottom can and will cause the problems he is having. If he overly rich on the bottom and he grabs a handful and gets up to speed and lets off as soon as he does that the LSN takes over and dumps a heavy load of fuel into the case at which time if the idle gap is only open 1mm as he stated it will be starving for air that it can’t get and will almost instantly die. Not having a hole cut in his body so air can get in is just adding to the problem. I went to the site for SH and in fact the factory HSN setting is 3. They did not say anything about where the LSN should be set at for a starting point. When the Sw/Sh engines first came out they were having a problem with there LSN’s. You could actually fully close the LSN and it would still be rich on the bottom. They have since fixed this problem with a running change and like I said all the people I helped at the track that were running the SW (and there were a lot) wound up between 1 and 1 ¾ turns out on the LSN. I live about 1 hour from Horizon and raced with John Adams quite often. He is the one that developed the Mayhem which came with the SW .21. Needless to say there were a lot of the SW engines in the area. I truly hope that Downunder finds his problem as I hate see anyone have such problems in this hobby. Some of them that are where he is at get frustrated and just give up and miss all the fun they can have when things are right.

Merry Christmas guys I am going to do some last min shopping.

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Old 12-24-2005, 02:37 PM   #24
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I'm glad we have someone here that knows a thing or two about SH based engines! (BTW, that was a compliment, no sarcasm in that post)

I know that a lot of the Novarossi based P5's had LSN trouble like that, we solved the problem with an extra o-ring under the carb intake.

Downunder: Take speedbump's advice and if you still can't get the LSN right, just contact Horizon as it would probably be easier to talk to them than SH. I was mentioning the air leaks as a possible problem because (from experience) if you have an air leak somewhere, you could have the bottom end needle all over the place and the engine would still run the same.

Best of luck getting everything running, and if you have any chassis tuning questions, feel free to email me. I run an XB8 every week and a local guy I race with is sponsored by XRAY. We've both got plenty of setup info if you're having trouble getting the chassis dialed.

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Old 12-24-2005, 02:56 PM   #25
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Thanks Savage!

Although it has been a long while since I have raced with the SW I still remember the growing pains. All this year I played with engines of different types. These engines would be RB WS7I, S5 and S7II. I have run the Nova P5X. I have also run the Collari B3 & B7 and I have driven the OS v-spec but not raced one. Out of all those engines the only one I did not like was the OS. It had lots of power but I felt it was not very smooth. Like they say it felt like a light switch with on & off only. What are your thoughts on the OS?

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Old 12-24-2005, 03:21 PM   #26
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Good thread here guys. Lots of good posts and giving the guy helpful tips. Personally if I ever have these kind of troubles the first thing I do is tear it down and check the pinch. Especially in a used motor. Then orange sensorsafe RTV the backplate, under the carb, any parts of the fuel nipple that aren't one piece. Replace fuel lines, check fuel filter and tank. Bad gasket at the tank can cause all kinds of problems. Also bad gaskets at the header/block can cause tuning problems and erratic temps. After what everybodies said if it doesn't work I'd pull the piston/sleeve and check the pinch.
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Old 12-25-2005, 07:56 AM   #27
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good stuff guys i never thought this thread would get so much attention,
but hey going to sh engine site and printing out there engine tuning guide made things alot easyer,which basically told me to richen up the bottom end if it was idleing to high even with the 1 mm idle gap it still would idle a little high so i did what the sh engine guide said and richened low end up and it lowered the rpm on idle then i worked on the high speed needle and started rich then leaned it out to max torque by then it was humming and all was good due to me pulling off the front left susp arm from my kyosho inferno and omg the damn thing fit on my xb8 so i can play with it until my spares get delivered .
anyhow back to the engine yeah i seemed to have got it going well a little on the rich side though so ill lean it out and get a temp guage and make sure its not too hot in doing so , oh and yeah i put my body shell on and it was going well just a little to rich on the bottom made it stall so back to it again tomorrow i mean today its past 12pm.
but yeah i seem to have it going strong i just need to give it a go with the body on once its tuned to the max torque then it should rip then the big test will be the track when i can get some fuel from my lhs.
also seeing as though my kyosho inferno low arm fit the xb8 do you think the 777 inferno aluminium arm would fit it? my inferno was advertised as a inferno 7.5 but im sure its a inferno mp-6 but the arm fit and all i want to know is can i get an aluminium arm to fit the xb8 i want strength.(xray don't make aluminium arms).
also how would the set up be for max traction for a real loose gravel track that would require alot of rally type driving technique to slide around the tight loose gravel corners once my engines all set then ill work on set up and driving technique.
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:09 AM   #28
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also i have an o.s max r.z .21 engine and it flies but ive had the same sort of trouble as my sh engine only this one has no where near the amount of compression as the sh engine and also the o.s max is leaking fuel all around the base of the engine and has a fuel line pipe going from the front of the crank case to the rear of the case any idea why that is?
also if that is the case i guess i would have to re build the engine? any tips on what to look for on this engine knowing the problem symptomes i explained. one last thing is this engine doesnt know how to idle its rpm changes dramatically from idle to high rpm when i give it some stick(similar to the xb8's sh engine i explained about this happening earlyer but this engine is way different it stall alot and needs some serious attention any idea on what i would have to do to this engine? to get to optimum performance oh and yeah when this baby is going she's a hummer i cleared a set of doubles at my local bmx track and the darn thing cleared them not only that it landed on the second set behind the first set cleared a good 8-10 mtrs ('houston we have lift off''!!!!!)
so ill be glad to sort this engine out as it is my bashing buggy for big jumps.
that is after i put my suspension arm back on from the xb8.
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Old 12-25-2005, 10:08 AM   #29
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Speedbump: The OS is a nice motor, but it doesn't have much top end at all. It is great for a small track because it is very jerky on the bottom, but that's all it's good for.

Downunder: You will bend an aluminum arm before you break a plastic arm!!! With 1/8th scale buggies, there is no reason to run aluminum arms, the plastic arms are plenty tough. We use the soft XRAY arms with longer droop screws. The soft arms flex more so they don't break as often. For your gravel track setup: Set the wing in the highest, furthest back position, and set your wheelbase to the longest setting. Run soft shock springs (like Mugen grey) and about 40t. oil in the shocks. Dont run any negitave or positive camber in the rear, and use the 2-4 rear toe block. This is a standard low traction setup, and works fairly well but in NC we race on dirt, not gravel so you'll have to play around with it until you find something that works.

Rebuilding an engine is somewhat easy, just look at the parts when you remove them and replace them in the same order they were removed. In some cases, you may only have to get the sleeve "pinched", but it sounds as if your engine has finally given up so I'd just buy a new one. You said it is idling up? That is because of lack of compression. You say it is leaking? Then just throw it away, instead of trying to seal up every leak........

Hope this helps, if you have any more q's, just ask!!!!!

Happy holidays everyone!
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Old 12-25-2005, 06:38 PM   #30
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savage: yeah i was hoping it wouldnt come to that for the os engine as it is very fast but seems to have too much problems as not only what i described happened to it a few days ago i ran it around my island roundabout thing in my street flat stick for about 2-3 laps of it and by the last lap i was getting no power to the wheels but engine was reving right out and then it smoked a little and stalled.
what sort of engine would you recomend for a bashing buggy or race practice car as thats what the inferno will be and i keep my xb8 for races only.
will it be better to maybe replace my sh engine in the xb8 for a better one and throw the sh engine in the inferno for practice.
either way i suppose id like an engine that has low rpm though high torque on the bottom end for my gravely track but still want good top end incase i vist other tracks.
would longer wheel base help prevent roll overs on corners? and maybe help it slide? anyway im a go and get it going out the front (the xb8 that is.)
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