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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 01-12-2017, 07:39 AM   #1051
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I owned the 22-4 1.0 last year , and I loved the way the car actually drove , but it was the most unreliable car I owned. I replaced an arm or suspension bulkhead or both at least once a race day . Fast-forward to today , I just bought a 2.0 . I like the way they drive that much ! So , my question is , how many pivot braces and arms do I need to carry for the 2.0 ? and ... Do the left and right arms interchange on the front of the car yet without mods ?
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The arms are specific to a side, but can go back and forth easily. Now, it is pretty hard to break a front arm, but you'll want to carry a couple of pivots with you.
So , I got to run some laps with the car last night in between race heats and I have to say its a great improvement. Good job guys , for real. Car is still smooth , and has that character that's hard to describe , but it turns quicker and actually seems more hooked up while it does it. Car was pretty easy to drive very fast , and didn't break a thing. I over drove it , crashed it , did dumb stuff with it . I let another guy drive it and do the same . No casualties ! I'm impressed ... Again , Good work guys ...
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:39 PM   #1052
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mounting rear shocks in front im getting bad spring tie rod rubbing. what can i do.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:04 PM   #1053
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One thing to do is use AE offset ball cups (you need to run AE ball studs as well).

You can also go back to the TLR 1.0 rear camber block and space out the inside ball stud.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:37 PM   #1054
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I pulled a ball stud out of my rear hub and am looking to replace the hub. I know the manual lists TLR234065 as the kit hub. When I read the description for that hub it states "All 22 / 22-4 2.0". What is the difference between this hub and TLR234058 which states it is for "All 22/T"? Would TLR234058 not work on a 22-4 2.0?

How about the new composite hubs, are they the same dimensions as TLR234065 or TLR234058, or neither?

EDIT: I just realized after starring at the 22 & 22-4 hub side by side that TLR234065 has an extra hole on the outside (3 vs 2). Guess that's the difference.

Last edited by AMessy; 01-13-2017 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:44 AM   #1055
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Yes there is the extra holes on the 22-4 ones that most of use don't use anyway. Most of these are interchangable. The new ones with the alum top from the SCT 3.0 will be here soon and would work as well. Should help with this pull out issue some.
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Old 01-14-2017, 08:40 PM   #1056
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Originally Posted by ashxxx View Post
mounting rear shocks in front im getting bad spring tie rod rubbing. what can i do.
I put a 1mm washer behind the shock mount.
The spring is only just touching the turnbuckle but it isn't that bad.
Hope that helps.
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:05 AM   #1057
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Frank, update on my over steering issue: thickened the front diff fluid to 60K went to orange springs and dropped front shock fluid down to 35. This really tamed the steering. Had a local TLR driver take it for some laps and he liked it. The rest is on me just getting used to the car.

As far as the front belt. I unknowingly had a bad ESC that wasn't giving me the torque I was looking for: I was compensating by tightening the slipper. ESC changed & problem solved. The car is dialed...... as for the driver? Not so much.....lol
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:39 PM   #1058
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Loving the 22-4 2.0 (QDRHRSE)...Thanks again!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6Qh4U-w32k
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:32 AM   #1059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bxr126 View Post
Frank, update on my over steering issue: thickened the front diff fluid to 60K went to orange springs and dropped front shock fluid down to 35. This really tamed the steering. Had a local TLR driver take it for some laps and he liked it. The rest is on me just getting used to the car.

As far as the front belt. I unknowingly had a bad ESC that wasn't giving me the torque I was looking for: I was compensating by tightening the slipper. ESC changed & problem solved. The car is dialed...... as for the driver? Not so much.....lol
Good to know, thanks for sharing!
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:24 AM   #1060
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Default Set-up for carpet racing

I bought a 2nd 22-4 2.0 to race on carpet. I put what I believe to be the heaviest available springs on the front (black) and rear (red), and bought the front sway-bar kit. I believe the pink rear sway bar is the heaviest and I actually went down to the lowest sway bar in front because the car lacked a little steering. I'm running the kit set-up for the shock pistons/oil. I'm running 19mm of ride height, but with all the changes mentioned, the car still traction rolls for me. Does anyone have any other recommendations for a carpet set-up? On a separate note, in order to get the 19mm ride height, I have the rear spring collars all the way up and when the car is on the stand, the springs do not touch the adjustment collars.
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Old 01-17-2017, 01:35 PM   #1061
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I am fairly new to RC stuff, have just purchased a 22-4 2.0 to race on carpet at a local club. I am worrying myself that the fan on my esc is fairly close to the bodyshell 'roof' when the shell is on? I have it in shorty config, so the esc is behind the servo. Is the little channel in the shell enough, or would I ever need to put any further holes in the shell? I am using a toro 120a esc, with an 8.5t motor currently.
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Old 01-17-2017, 01:41 PM   #1062
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I have not had heat issues in my car. the little scoop to get fresh air into the motor works reasonably well. If geared properly motor heat should not be an issue although 8.5T motor is a little soft for what is typically used in modified 4wd. You normally see 7.5-5.5 range of motors in this class. Not saying your choice is wrong but if you try and get more power out of it with gearing and timing you can run into temp issues then if that makes sense.
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Old 01-17-2017, 02:57 PM   #1063
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So is the scoop supposed to be drilled out then? And there would be no benefit in say putting a few holes in the front window to allow more airflow? Motor wise - I was recc'd this just to start, then I can progress with quicker motors as I go!

Thanks!
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Old 01-17-2017, 02:59 PM   #1064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wease View Post
I bought a 2nd 22-4 2.0 to race on carpet. I put what I believe to be the heaviest available springs on the front (black) and rear (red), and bought the front sway-bar kit. I believe the pink rear sway bar is the heaviest and I actually went down to the lowest sway bar in front because the car lacked a little steering. I'm running the kit set-up for the shock pistons/oil. I'm running 19mm of ride height, but with all the changes mentioned, the car still traction rolls for me. Does anyone have any other recommendations for a carpet set-up? On a separate note, in order to get the 19mm ride height, I have the rear spring collars all the way up and when the car is on the stand, the springs do not touch the adjustment collars.
Time to take some droop out .
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:11 PM   #1065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wease View Post
I bought a 2nd 22-4 2.0 to race on carpet. I put what I believe to be the heaviest available springs on the front (black) and rear (red), and bought the front sway-bar kit. I believe the pink rear sway bar is the heaviest and I actually went down to the lowest sway bar in front because the car lacked a little steering. I'm running the kit set-up for the shock pistons/oil. I'm running 19mm of ride height, but with all the changes mentioned, the car still traction rolls for me. Does anyone have any other recommendations for a carpet set-up? On a separate note, in order to get the 19mm ride height, I have the rear spring collars all the way up and when the car is on the stand, the springs do not touch the adjustment collars.
What front tires are you using?

I had a problem of it flipping over the front outside wheel going into turns on our carpet track. The solution was to use different front tires. Originally I was using a pin type carpet tire on the front, which had too much side bight. Switched to a staggered rib type tire and that settled things down. Used both the Schumacher Stagger Rib and the JConcepts Swaggers with great success.
Tip: Use 2wd front foams for the Schumacher's, since the tire carcass width is slimmer than a full size 4wd front tire. I mistakenly put 4wd foams in and the tires unevenly wore down the center treads more than the outside treads.
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