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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-03-2016, 10:24 PM   #271
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Originally Posted by rcfiend View Post
I'm new to 4wd buggy. What is the best way to set the slipper on a 4wd buggy and how can you tell if its working.
There's a TLR video on YouTube for setting the slipper and ball diffs on the 1.0 - slipper setup will be the same for the 2.0.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=voqmS6vNw5A
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:08 AM   #272
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Default Universal driveshafts

I went from cva with 2.0rear end to std 1.0 rear end with universal driveshafts and found the car to handle bumps way better. Do you rekon it is due to the driveshafts? Is there any universals for the 2.0 that will fit other than the short ones from the tlr22 2.0?
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Old 07-05-2016, 12:54 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by magnushedqvist View Post
I went from cva with 2.0rear end to std 1.0 rear end with universal driveshafts and found the car to handle bumps way better. Do you rekon it is due to the driveshafts? Is there any universals for the 2.0 that will fit other than the short ones from the tlr22 2.0?
The 22 Universals with the 1mm axle spacer installed with fit.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:41 AM   #274
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David Jenson is a So Cal young gun who has been winning some big races in 4wd lately.

His setup for the 22-4 2.0 is now up at Casper-RC.com if you would like to check it out.

http://casper-rc.com/images/22-4%202...CRC%20JBRL.pdf
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Old 07-06-2016, 01:50 PM   #275
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
David Jenson is a So Cal young gun who has been winning some big races in 4wd lately.

His setup for the 22-4 2.0 is now up at Casper-RC.com if you would like to check it out.

http://casper-rc.com/images/22-4%202...CRC%20JBRL.pdf
Coming up blank for me, could be mobile issue though.
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Old 07-06-2016, 01:51 PM   #276
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Coming up blank for me, could be mobile issue though.
If you want to view a PDF on any IOS device, you must have an Adobe Reader App.

If you don't have a Reader plug-in/program on your PC, you wouldn't be able to view it either.
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:34 PM   #277
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Coming up blank for me, could be mobile issue though.
Likely a reader issue. Came up on my PC at home and at work. I can try and make .jpg versions as well to ensure people can read them.
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:10 PM   #278
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Got it. Thanks guys!
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:15 PM   #279
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I finally got a few runs on the 22.4. While I was breaking in new tires, maybe 6 runs and the front belt broke. I'm running a 7.5, is that to much motor or is 6 runs the life expectancy of the belts?
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:28 PM   #280
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I ran hundreds of packs thru my 22-4 1.0 and broke only one front belt (while alway running a 6.5 motor). So hopefully just a fluke thing for you. Make sure your slipper clutch is set properly to absorb some of those hard landings that can cause the front belt to skip.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:45 PM   #281
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I ran hundreds of packs thru my 22-4 1.0 and broke only one front belt (while alway running a 6.5 motor). So hopefully just a fluke thing for you. Make sure your slipper clutch is set properly to absorb some of those hard landings that can cause the front belt to skip.
Cool I was hoping it was a fluke. Thanks for the quick reply.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:21 PM   #282
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I just finished building my 22 4(awesome build and quality), and when I put the body on it hits the battery post so the body does not sit flat or go down all the way like it does on the right side of the car. Are you supposed to cut it down or make a hole in the body, I have it almost all the way down and the clip is in the top hole.

Also was curious as to why the are two different size gear tooth(where the belt goes around) for the front diff vs the rear diff?

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:49 PM   #283
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I just finished building my 22 4(awesome build and quality), and when I put the body on it hits the battery post so the body does not sit flat or go down all the way like it does on the right side of the car. Are you supposed to cut it down or make a hole in the body, I have it almost all the way down and the clip is in the top hole.

Also was curious as to why the are two different size gear tooth(where the belt goes around) for the front diff vs the rear diff?

Thanks
You can either drill a hole and use the body post, or cut the tip of the post off and secure the body with velcro. There are two holes on the post for body clips. The bottom one is for the battery strap...the top hole is for the body.

Not sure about the gears. Didn't realize one was bigger. Usually if they do this the front diff gear will be bigger to create an overdrive effect, which can make the car a little easier to drive
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:20 PM   #284
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So earlier today I had 5 hours at the track with this car my buddy let me borrow and it is a fine wheeler and all but there is serious the biggest marketing rip off because there is very minimal differences from the 1.0.
I thought I would change my mind if I got to drive them back to back and notice some improvements running on the clay track and dirt track at my local track and it seems like a waste.
Much better options out there like the HB and AE should have no problem killing this unless they make another terrible wheeler again like the b44 platform so I guess we'll see
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:45 AM   #285
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Originally Posted by Slashn77 View Post
So earlier today I had 5 hours at the track with this car my buddy let me borrow and it is a fine wheeler and all but there is serious the biggest marketing rip off because there is very minimal differences from the 1.0.
I thought I would change my mind if I got to drive them back to back and notice some improvements running on the clay track and dirt track at my local track and it seems like a waste.
Much better options out there like the HB and AE should have no problem killing this unless they make another terrible wheeler again like the b44 platform so I guess we'll see
The gear diffs really change the way the car drives, and so does the rear end mod. I wouldn't go on record saying something if I did believe it and experience it myself. Maybe the 2.0 you ran had ball diffs? Or?
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