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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
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What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

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Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-01-2019, 01:24 PM
  #2386  
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Originally Posted by Marco926 View Post
can i just use 231045 + 234061 on 1.0 car ???
TLR231045 only works with the 2.0 chassis and 2.0 Tunnels.

TLR234061 will work on the 1.0 pivot as long as you have the 2.0 front pin brace, which comes with TLR231045, and the 2.0 front inner hinge pins (TLR234063).
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Old 05-01-2019, 02:49 PM
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Default Ok, I got the new 2.0 kit

Go ahead and release the 3.0 now that I've the new 2.0 kit and have started the build. Lol
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:17 AM
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Old 05-15-2019, 06:55 AM
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Looks like all the local onroad tracks have closed and I'll need to dust off my 22-4 1.0 for some good off road action.

Does the Exotek slipper eliminator fit the 1.0 car?

I've got to open everything up and check belts and pulleys so if that fits I think I may toss one in as well.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
Looks like all the local onroad tracks have closed and I'll need to dust off my 22-4 1.0 for some good off road action.

Does the Exotek slipper eliminator fit the 1.0 car?

I've got to open everything up and check belts and pulleys so if that fits I think I may toss one in as well.
I would pass on the eliminator. It chews up front belts too easily.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 071crazy View Post
I would pass on the eliminator. It chews up front belts too easily.

I should be clear that I'm running 13.5 but I think this is still a worry. I don't know how long my belts really last right now as I would normally just change them every so often to avoid issue but I don't want to create more problems. Finishing races is really important in the end, much more so than a very slight advantage with the car while it's running.

Any idea how often the belts would need to be changed with this or is it kind of unpredictable?

Thanks,
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
I should be clear that I'm running 13.5 but I think this is still a worry. I don't know how long my belts really last right now as I would normally just change them every so often to avoid issue but I don't want to create more problems. Finishing races is really important in the end, much more so than a very slight advantage with the car while it's running.

Any idea how often the belts would need to be changed with this or is it kind of unpredictable?

Thanks,
A couple of us have had problems snapping front belts even with 13.5, and it is unpredictable. I think the problem is that the drivetrain immediately locks up under braking with the eliminator, putting a lot of strain on the belt. You've left to reducing brake epa and hoping that you don't snap a belt.
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