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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 06-15-2016, 12:06 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
I also have one more build tip -- I have now seen 3 or 4 different experienced builders who had their outdrive set screws come loose on their first run, I have now had 2 of them come loose myself. There are two outcomes to that set screw coming loose -- either the outdrive stays on the shaft, but loose, and you have a 3WD car... or the outdrive flies off completely and you end up looking for it on the track. While it is only one set screw, you will have to take the diff out to get the outdrive properly reattached.

So, the lesson is to be liberal on the loctite on your outdrive set screws, and be sure to really tighten them firmly. I believe this is step B-1 in the build.
I just finished a FB Live video on Team Losi Racing's page doing a diff build, and covering how to assemble the outdrives. If you follow those directions, you should never have another one loosen
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Yes, wheels are the same.



No need for green slime, and you shouldn't have any leaking

It's not terrible just some oil running down the shaft and collecting noticeably between the spring perch and eyelet.
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
It's not terrible just some oil running down the shaft and collecting noticeably between the spring perch and eyelet.
Clean them off good on the outside, and see if you have more after your next race day. You shouldn't.
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:43 PM
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Sorry if this was covered.

Having issues with the rear "cvd's" binding when I put the set screw in. What's the fix?
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyB View Post
Sorry if this was covered.

Having issues with the rear "cvd's" binding when I put the set screw in. What's the fix?
Ream out the hole slightly, or if it isn't to bad run it. It will slowly wear in.
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyB View Post
Sorry if this was covered.

Having issues with the rear "cvd's" binding when I put the set screw in. What's the fix?
Oh wait I found it file Polish Dremel etc?
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyB View Post
Oh wait I found it file Polish Dremel etc?
Actually had to take out a noticeable amount of material.
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:54 PM
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On the subject of the steering link I took an old Lunsford 3 1/4" XX4 Titanium offset steering turnbuckle and use the old Losi HD ball cups from a XXX-CR. Fits perfect, super durable and a nice tight fit. My friends and I started stripping the stock setup with the aluminum bell cranks and exotek steering horns. Since going to our XX4 based system we've had no issues.
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
On the subject of the steering link I took an old Lunsford 3 1/4" XX4 Titanium offset steering turnbuckle and use the old Losi HD ball cups from a XXX-CR. Fits perfect, super durable and a nice tight fit. My friends and I started stripping the stock setup with the aluminum bell cranks and exotek steering horns. Since going to our XX4 based system we've had no issues.
Always love an old-school fix! I will probably do this if I can find the parts

I should mention that just picking up new cups and using the stock link instead of the JC Finned one fixed my issues with this (maybe hitting the walls less too ), it looks like the threads in the JC rod are actually not as "deep" as the stock rod which might have been contributing too.
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
I just finished a FB Live video on Team Losi Racing's page doing a diff build, and covering how to assemble the outdrives. If you follow those directions, you should never have another one loosen
Very helpful video, wish I would have been free to watch it live!

I just watched it on Facebook, is there a way we can get a link to it here in the forum so that we can add it to the wiki etc? People can get a little derpy and confused when you tell them "find it on facebook" (as you found out when mentioning your painter today), so a youtube link or just a permalink that lets people view the video without logging in would be nice.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:06 AM
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Update on the unscrewing steering turnbuckle, so it turns out that I did not have the right end point adjustments and I think it was forcing out the link, I ran the car today and did not have 1 issue. I'm running box setup with 30k in the diffs on a low traction bumpy track, the tire of choice is a aka I impacts and the car performed good, still needs a little more forward traction, also the rear end is very bouncy and gets unsettled when I land a big jump. Any suggestions
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Update on the unscrewing steering turnbuckle, so it turns out that I did not have the right end point adjustments and I think it was forcing out the link, I ran the car today and did not have 1 issue. I'm running box setup with 30k in the diffs on a low traction bumpy track, the tire of choice is a aka I impacts and the car performed good, still needs a little more forward traction, also the rear end is very bouncy and gets unsettled when I land a big jump. Any suggestions
30k in all Diffs is kit stock for losi? I always run Mugen oils and in my 1/8 ebuggy 4.0 I run 7000/5000/4000 Mugen oil.
Does losi label their oils different kinda like AE does.
I'm not a big 1:10 scale guy so idk if it is the difference in brands or if 1/10 buggies need such high cst oils..
Btw I only use losi shock oil in all my vehicle and now gonna give AE shock oil a try now that it's Lucas oil
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:27 AM
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The gear diffs do not have the capacity like some others because of their design. So you have to run heavier fluid than you would on say an Associated gear diff.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by b1narych0ice View Post
Very helpful video, wish I would have been free to watch it live!

I just watched it on Facebook, is there a way we can get a link to it here in the forum so that we can add it to the wiki etc? People can get a little derpy and confused when you tell them "find it on facebook" (as you found out when mentioning your painter today), so a youtube link or just a permalink that lets people view the video without logging in would be nice.
I'm not aware of a way to pull FB live videos out of FB. As far as I know FB, has done this intentionally to keep traffic on their site.

Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Ream out the hole slightly, or if it isn't to bad run it. It will slowly wear in.
I wouldn't mess with the hole, rather just the pin slot.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:23 AM
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Have my new 2.0 at home and won't be building it for a while so what NECESSARY hop ups are recommended for a outdoor natural dirt track? Kept my proline calibers off my old buggy since they were hooked up. When is it necessary for the + rear wheel hexes?
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