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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 11-22-2017, 06:57 PM   #1921
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Does the Jconcepts silencer 271 fit the 22-4 2.0?
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:47 PM   #1922
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Very interesting. Looks like a weight reduction effort.

There's a guy in the For Sale section selling a 1.0 car with a pretty nice "cover elimination" effort applied.
Yes there is although its closer to a 2.0 at this point as it has gear diffs.






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Old 11-22-2017, 10:27 PM   #1923
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That's ^^ the one..
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:06 AM   #1924
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I can see the need for enclosed belts outdoors but it would not surprise me to see something like this on the next car as an option since so many of us are running on clay, astro or carpet know. Not dremmeled, you know what I mean.
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:48 AM   #1925
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I have to imagine that a primary focus of their design group is improving the serviceability of their 4wd. I believe this is the primary obstacle for most who would run it but choose shaft-cars.
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:00 AM   #1926
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I have to imagine that a primary focus of their design group is improving the serviceability of their 4wd. I believe this is the primary obstacle for most who would run it but choose shaft-cars.
Yeah, that is clearly the number one issue to me. A center diff option would be nice too.
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Old 11-24-2017, 05:06 AM   #1927
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i cut up all my tunnels i thought the car was flexing too much,making it inconsistent, so i removed them..
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Old 11-25-2017, 09:14 AM   #1928
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Does anyone have a 3.0 degree toe LRC rear pivot block they would be willing to part with?
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Old 11-25-2017, 03:19 PM   #1929
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Orientation and for what it is worth moving it forward or aft really have no affect. Horizontal allow for more rotation as the cup can go 360 in that direction. Vertical allow for more precise adjustments in roll center with shims/washers.

I am using the 1.0 with a 2mm spacer under the ball stud to move the link away from the shock. I tried the AE offset ball stud and rod ends but like the horizontal setup better.
What holeare you runnig the ball stud in then?
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Old 11-25-2017, 06:50 PM   #1930
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I am running middle hole on the bottom row (#4) for the TLR block and it is the middle middle hole for the exotek block
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Old 11-26-2017, 08:18 AM   #1931
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After a brief stint with the Tekno, I'm back. what did I miss? lol Going to do the caster block mod today
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:03 PM   #1932
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Did I read somewhere there are siffezell parts coming? Did the mod to the front, fairly straight forward, just use the calipers and go from 27mm to 25mm. Actually kind of excited to drive it again. It was a secondary car until I got the Tekno but since then all I have driven was wheeler. Cant wait to start dialing this thing back in. Looking forward to stealth mode again. I do think I need to break down and get some CVA's finally. Thats the only thing really that still is left over from the 1.0 other than the shorty chassis. Thats not going anywhere though as all I run is 13.5.
Also whats the point of narrowing up the rear end with the 22T hubs?
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Last edited by DG Designs; 11-26-2017 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 11-27-2017, 11:29 AM   #1933
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Quote:
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i cut up all my tunnels i thought the car was flexing too much,making it inconsistent, so i removed them..
IMO - the rear upper tunnel must remain intact... even if lightened.
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Old 11-27-2017, 12:13 PM   #1934
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What about cutting the lower tunnel and keeping the upper? Should keep most of the rigidity?
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Old 11-27-2017, 12:49 PM   #1935
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I plan on putting the upper tunnel back albeit probably still lightened a touch. The rear end needs bracing coming from the top. It seem the only place the chassis flexes is at the very back where there are no side rails at the suspension mount. I thought keeping the lower tunnel would cover that but it doesn't. The lower tunnel could be removed thought i think.
Anyone have input on the 222t hexes? If understand it correct they are making the rear end 2 mm narrower to push the driveshafts further in and remove some bind. Would unis do the same thing?
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