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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 09-11-2017, 05:28 PM   #1801
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I have been all over as well. Depends a lot on your motor and timing as well.
Is there a FDR I should be shooting for? If it helps at all I'm running a Fantom
V2T 13.5 with 46* of timing. Casper I know you've been to my track before... I'm running at Rainmans Hobby in Bakersfield CA. Pretty wide open and fast layout right now.
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:06 PM   #1802
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There's no magic FDR, manual is a decent place to start. Gear and time as needed for performance and heat.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:08 PM   #1803
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I geared down a tooth when we were up there for JBRL. I was at 25/76. Tekin Gen 3 motor with 48* timing.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:10 AM   #1804
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I decided to go TLR for a 4wd buggy. This would have to be the worst quality buggy I have ever built. Binding front cva shaft. All shock bodies and caps are machined poorly and don't screw together very well, damaged front shock shaft. All upper shock mounts have burs on them. I regret purchasing this and should've bought either AE B64 or Yokomo YZ4.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:24 AM   #1805
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I decided to go TLR for a 4wd buggy. This would have to be the worst quality buggy I have ever built. Binding front cva shaft. All shock bodies and caps are machined poorly and don't screw together very well, damaged front shock shaft. All upper shock mounts have burs on them. I regret purchasing this and should've bought either AE B64 or Yokomo YZ4.
I really hope it wasn't that bad and that the imperfections you experienced have just worked you up about it in general. I strongly encourage making sure it's sound to be on the track and get it there; I've been through quite a bit with my TLR 22-4 1.0 and 2.0 and have actually shelved them twice... man enough to admit it was my fault they had to be shelved though. My 22-4 2.0 is rocking an aluminum front pivot courtesy of Chadd at MHOR rc raceway, and I've only snapped an arm that was so worn I had bought a replacement sent 2 months prior to the break... left them on to see if/when they'd give or if they'd last until I could see the hingepins! So far so good with the aluminum front pivot, 1 arm and took a ti shock standoff out too when it let go... (got squirrely coming down the wall at Lucky 13 Speedway onto the back straight and just never let up, D'oh!) Just drive the car, they're great..
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:48 AM   #1806
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Originally Posted by Dynastorm Man View Post
I decided to go TLR for a 4wd buggy. This would have to be the worst quality buggy I have ever built. Binding front cva shaft. All shock bodies and caps are machined poorly and don't screw together very well, damaged front shock shaft. All upper shock mounts have burs on them. I regret purchasing this and should've bought either AE B64 or Yokomo YZ4.
Gee Matt .

What a nightmare for you.

My 22/4 was a pleasure to build as my 22T 2.0 from Mario. Had a slight bend in one cvd shaft but doesn't produce any vibration under full noise with no wheels.

Try to get on top of it as im sure you would love the way it goes . Im just about to build my 22T 3.0 in 2 weeks.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:42 AM   #1807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynastorm Man View Post
I decided to go TLR for a 4wd buggy. This would have to be the worst quality buggy I have ever built. Binding front cva shaft. All shock bodies and caps are machined poorly and don't screw together very well, damaged front shock shaft. All upper shock mounts have burs on them. I regret purchasing this and should've bought either AE B64 or Yokomo YZ4.
Pretty much the exact opposite experience of every TLR shock build I've had, a lot between 22-4 1.0 and 2 2.0s, along with 2 sct and 5 2wd buggy. Give Horizon a call I'm 100% sure they will make it right.

Once you get it built the buggy is awesome.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:43 AM   #1808
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Anyone know of a pending JConcepts or Pro-Line body due to be released soon? They both seem to be coming out with new bodies for every popular buggy out there except the 22-4...and even the old ones they made are discontinued. Odd.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:03 PM   #1809
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All Losi products I have had have been perfect. I did have the slight bind in my rear cva on my 22 4 2.0 when they were first released, but Horizon took care of it really quick...great customer support. Losi makes some of the best quality nicest driving cars and trucks.

To have all those issues in one kit wich I have never heard of sounds suspicious...gonna have to raise the B.S flag on that one
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:21 PM   #1810
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Anyone know of a pending JConcepts or Pro-Line body due to be released soon? They both seem to be coming out with new bodies for every popular buggy out there except the 22-4...and even the old ones they made are discontinued. Odd.
There are still JC Silencers available online but it's no longer listed on the JC site itself, that is odd. Proline however has been phasing out the Phantom line for sometime now it seems. I managed to find a new Phantom for my Tekno back in May after scouring the internet and recently found a B5R body at rcmart and I think I may have bought the last 22-4 Phantom from A Main last week! It certainly doesn't seem like there is much out there for the 22-4 from these aftermarket companies. Strange too because it is still a popular buggy. TLR is supposed to come out with a new body, the prototype was awful looking, but ya gotta run what works I suppose.
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:06 PM   #1811
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Im sure this has been asked and answered but i can't find it in this thread. I have a 1.0 and was wondering if the 2.0 gear diffs will fit in it?
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:43 PM   #1812
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Im sure this has been asked and answered but i can't find it in this thread. I have a 1.0 and was wondering if the 2.0 gear diffs will fit in it?
You need the tunnels/belt covers and front pivot. Need to grind some of chassis in front to clear diff
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:14 AM   #1813
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They are taking 2mm off the bottom of the caster blocks to allow the steering spindles 2mm
of adjustment. You will also need spacers, i prefer the schumacher quick clips so you dont
have to dissasemble things to make adjustments. Also most are running +3mm rear hubs,
Exotek rear camber mount and the shocks on the front of the arms.
Looks like Root's latest setup raises the spindles. Curious what advantage this has on clay/dirt.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...2017_08_06.pdf
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Old 09-20-2017, 09:12 AM   #1814
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Looks like Root's latest setup raises the spindles. Curious what advantage this has on clay/dirt.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...2017_08_06.pdf
Raising the front spindle keeps the front end down a lot more so the car drives flatter without a lot it fore and aft movement under braking and throttle. It ends up driving a lot more predictable and consistent.
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:30 AM   #1815
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Raising the front spindle keeps the front end down a lot more so the car drives flatter without a lot it fore and aft movement under braking and throttle. It ends up driving a lot more predictable and consistent.
Same bump steer spacers on the spindle? I would assume you would have to drop the ball stud 2mm to match the old bump steer -- in other words a low mount stud with zero washers. Doesn't look like Root changed them from his JC Fall setup to his new OCRC setup. Thx!
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Last edited by skrichter; 09-20-2017 at 10:42 AM.
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