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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 07-13-2017, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tsair
Random question -- should there be any play between the front and rear wheels turning?

If I lock down the front wheels with my hands (holding them in the air) and then try to roll the car back and forth on its back wheels, I can roll it about an inch back and forth before the slipper is forced to engage.

So basically there is about an inch of roll back and forth when one set of wheels is locked down.

Logically I can't see why it would do this unless the middle or back belts is massively slipping (broken teeth or belts). The front belt is fine.
I went through the whole drivetrain, serviced the diffs and put in all aluminum pulleys and gear diff pulleys and replaced the front belt anyway. About half of the play was eliminated, so I'm guessing there is just a little bit of play in the belt system that develops over time.

I'm curious why there are still two pulleys (the ones for the side belt) they don't make aluminum versions of? Do these take less of a beating than the rest of the pulleys?
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by tsair
I went through the whole drivetrain, serviced the diffs and put in all aluminum pulleys and gear diff pulleys and replaced the front belt anyway. About half of the play was eliminated, so I'm guessing there is just a little bit of play in the belt system that develops over time.

I'm curious why there are still two pulleys (the ones for the side belt) they don't make aluminum versions of? Do these take less of a beating than the rest of the pulleys?
Oddly enough I have never replaced a side belt or heard on an issue with one.
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:45 AM
  #1653  
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Im probably down 50g, Jake mentioned he was closer to 100 but he has done more than i have. I honestly dont think the chassis flex should change because the bottom belt channel is still there.
For sure, there is more chassis flex.
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tsair
I went through the whole drivetrain, serviced the diffs and put in all aluminum pulleys and gear diff pulleys and replaced the front belt anyway. About half of the play was eliminated, so I'm guessing there is just a little bit of play in the belt system that develops over time.

I'm curious why there are still two pulleys (the ones for the side belt) they don't make aluminum versions of? Do these take less of a beating than the rest of the pulleys?
I've never seen a side pulley or belt fail, so no need for expensive option parts for these.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
For sure, there is more chassis flex.
You obviously would know more than i would. It would be very interesting to run back to back with the full belt tunnels to see if it is noticeable though. And i dont mean by me, i mean someone who COULD tell. 5 trips to the track a year doesn't qualify me. I do enjoy dremeling up someone else's design though, probably more than driving
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Jake Thayer inspired weight loss plan
There's someone who doesn't remember losing a race due to a rock getting stuck in the belt of a yokomo dogfighter!!
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Old 07-15-2017, 12:51 AM
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Does the 22 4.0 wing stay fit the 22-4 or am I cutting & drilling the kit one to use the wing buttons??
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Old 07-15-2017, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Capelracer
There's someone who doesn't remember losing a race due to a rock getting stuck in the belt of a yokomo dogfighter!!
No rocks in clay
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Capelracer
Does the 22 4.0 wing stay fit the 22-4 or am I cutting & drilling the kit one to use the wing buttons??
It doesn't fit right on.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Capelracer
Does the 22 4.0 wing stay fit the 22-4 or am I cutting & drilling the kit one to use the wing buttons??
I bought the Exotek wing mount & use screw with wing Butons
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tsair
I went through the whole drivetrain, serviced the diffs and put in all aluminum pulleys and gear diff pulleys and replaced the front belt anyway. About half of the play was eliminated, so I'm guessing there is just a little bit of play in the belt system that develops over time.

I'm curious why there are still two pulleys (the ones for the side belt) they don't make aluminum versions of? Do these take less of a beating than the rest of the pulleys?
The play that you are feeling is in the rear large pulley and small one. Over time with a hot mod motor the small pins in the jackshaft /layshaft will slightly wear the slots in the plastic pulley's. I simply put a couple drops of CA in the slots and it locks it down great...no more play. I don't think its that big of a deal and I've never had a pulley or side belt fail, heck a year on this car and still all original belts. My car is stock with a 6.5 and it's been the most reliable wheeler I've ever had.
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Old 07-15-2017, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin
The play that you are feeling is in the rear large pulley and small one. Over time with a hot mod motor the small pins in the jackshaft /layshaft will slightly wear the slots in the plastic pulley's. I simply put a couple drops of CA in the slots and it locks it down great...no more play. I don't think its that big of a deal and I've never had a pulley or side belt fail, heck a year on this car and still all original belts. My car is stock with a 6.5 and it's been the most reliable wheeler I've ever had.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:55 PM
  #1663  
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My front belt was skipping.
It was a broken bearing on the front layshaft.
The US size, the one I didnt have. But someone could help me.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:39 AM
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Okay, I've been scouring the forum while waiting for my 22-4 2.0 kit to be delivered...

Am I right in assuming that for the rear suspension on the setup sheet:
22 hub/hex is the 2.0 kit hub & hex (same as 22 3.0)??
22-4 hub/hex is the hub & hex from 22-4 1.0??

Cheers for all the tips & advice on here folks!!
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Capelracer
Okay, I've been scouring the forum while waiting for my 22-4 2.0 kit to be delivered...

Am I right in assuming that for the rear suspension on the setup sheet:
22 hub/hex is the 2.0 kit hub & hex (same as 22 3.0)??
22-4 hub/hex is the hub & hex from 22-4 1.0??

Cheers for all the tips & advice on here folks!!
Yes, except the 2.0 4wd needs the 68mm CVA bone (not 67 like the 22 3.0).
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