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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-30-2017, 03:37 PM
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I would not but depends on if they are leaking or how many miles you put on your car.....
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Old 05-30-2017, 04:40 PM
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When do you use HRC in the back?
There is no 2.5 or 2?
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Old 05-30-2017, 07:29 PM
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What is difference between the 22 rear hub/hex and the 22-4 hub/hex
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:46 PM
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Does anyone know where I can get the MIP lightweight layshafts from?
Can I order directly from MIP online?
Thanks
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Old 05-31-2017, 02:42 AM
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Thanks guys.

Will give all suggestions a try.

Also getting one of those bottles of "Skills Re-Freshener" from Amain.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:11 PM
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Anybody running in a large dirt track like hot rod hobbies 13.5 class with a torquey motor? What gearing you guys at? Im running an Oriin ultimate stock 13.5t gearing at 84/30 and its running a bit hot after 8 minutes WITH a fan. Timing is in the middle of the can ... i think it was pulling 3 amps.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:23 PM
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What is hot? Do you have an actual temp? 30 seems a little high.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
What is hot? Do you have an actual temp? 30 seems a little high.
140-155f with a fan
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
140-155f with a fan
I guess I shouldn't say mine is around 170-180 with the fan, lol. But my motor is a 1s D4 at 43deg pulling 31k rpm & 11amps. LOL..
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
140-155f with a fan
I would not call that hot. If you are getting the performance you want out of it, it should run at that temp.

I would try gearing down and turning the timing up personally but again if you are getting speed out of it sounds ok to me until it gets really warm out there.
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I would not call that hot. If you are getting the performance you want out of it, it should run at that temp.

I would try gearing down and turning the timing up personally but again if you are getting speed out of it sounds ok to me until it gets really warm out there.
i want more snap though...i tried 84/29 but sacrificed speed in the straight. Should i turn up the timing to get that speed in the straight back?
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
i want more snap though...i tried 84/29 but sacrificed speed in the straight. Should i turn up the timing to get that speed in the straight back?
That's one way to do it. You have to keep messing with a bunch of things, like punch control on the ESC, pinions, timing. It takes time but you'll get there. Would be nice if it was just perfect out of the box, but that's not the case I would also agree that in 4 wheels if those temps are accurate, that's really isn't that hot. Your asking a 13.5 to do a lot of work in the 22-4. Have you done anything to lighten it? to make the motor not have to work so hard? A lighter car will also be faster as well.
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Old 05-31-2017, 02:35 PM
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What is the timing at currently. My only issue with that question is I am not sure how that motor is for base timing (endbell timing is not always accurate!).

I would gear down and time up and see how it works and experiment with it for sure. ESC settings of course affect all this as well. What ESC?
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Old 05-31-2017, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
I guess I shouldn't say mine is around 170-180 with the fan, lol. But my motor is a 1s D4 at 43deg pulling 31k rpm & 11amps. LOL..
Wow. 11 amps at 180F with fan is actually my "i dont give an eff " timing settings. Lol
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Old 05-31-2017, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
What is the timing at currently. My only issue with that question is I am not sure how that motor is for base timing (endbell timing is not always accurate!).

I would gear down and time up and see how it works and experiment with it for sure. ESC settings of course affect all this as well. What ESC?
HW 3.1.... 1st punch at 18 and 2nd punch at 26. (Max is 30)

I'll start by gearing down to 84/27 (which has plenty of snap)... then increase timing for the straight while monitoring the temp.

What do you think?

Ive been adding weights in my 2wd to make it driveable at the track. Would 4wd be the same though?

Last edited by Phillip F; 05-31-2017 at 06:01 PM.
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