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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
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Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 05-24-2017, 10:27 AM
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Phillip F. That's a pretty cool car in your avatar pic. Lol
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Old 05-24-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
Phillip F. That's a pretty cool car in your avatar pic. Lol
...of course ...that used to be your TLR 22-4 2.0... lol
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Old 05-29-2017, 12:20 AM
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Is the oil for the diffs measured in WT or CST??
Thanks
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Old 05-29-2017, 12:35 AM
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Looking for set up suggestions to take out the steering edginess.

When I run the same type of tire on the front as the rear, I have to much steering. The buggy is very twitchy and non forgiving. Going into the turns there is a fine line between holding the line and then having the back end just snap out unexpectedly.

I ran some two wheel buggy tires up front and the buggy was more controllable (forgiving), but I don't feel this is the fix all.

Running stock set up with the exception of the rear using less anti squat (1 degree), removed all spacers from under the ball studs (all ball studs), rear shock location 3-inside, front shock location 3-outside, rear diff 40K. With these changes I was able to get the rear inner tire from lifting in the turns and the steering became a "little" better, but not where I need it to be.

Another issue is the car seems to have to much side bite, going through high speed turns, Im getting up on two wheels and occasionally traction rolling if to much steering input is applied going into tight turns.

Also, if I nudge a corner dot in the turn, I am generally on my roof.

My last buggy was a little more drive able, maybe more forgiving/predictable and not so edgy feeling. I was able to drive it more aggressive and put in much faster lap times.

So if anyone has any suggestions to get this buggy feeling better for my driving style, I would greatly appreciate it.
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Old 05-29-2017, 04:26 AM
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I found my car had a lot of steering for me so I simply changed the camber. I usually run negative1.5 all around but i went to negative .5 in the front & that mellowed it out a bit, the simplest thing you can try
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by offroader47 View Post
Is the oil for the diffs measured in WT or CST??
Thanks
CST for diff fluids

Originally Posted by PIHGUAM1 View Post
Looking for set up suggestions to take out the steering edginess.

When I run the same type of tire on the front as the rear, I have to much steering. The buggy is very twitchy and non forgiving. Going into the turns there is a fine line between holding the line and then having the back end just snap out unexpectedly.

I ran some two wheel buggy tires up front and the buggy was more controllable (forgiving), but I don't feel this is the fix all.

Running stock set up with the exception of the rear using less anti squat (1 degree), removed all spacers from under the ball studs (all ball studs), rear shock location 3-inside, front shock location 3-outside, rear diff 40K. With these changes I was able to get the rear inner tire from lifting in the turns and the steering became a "little" better, but not where I need it to be.

Another issue is the car seems to have to much side bite, going through high speed turns, Im getting up on two wheels and occasionally traction rolling if to much steering input is applied going into tight turns.

Also, if I nudge a corner dot in the turn, I am generally on my roof.

My last buggy was a little more drive able, maybe more forgiving/predictable and not so edgy feeling. I was able to drive it more aggressive and put in much faster lap times.

So if anyone has any suggestions to get this buggy feeling better for my driving style, I would greatly appreciate it.
May want to try a front swaybar
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by PIHGUAM1 View Post
Looking for set up suggestions to take out the steering edginess.
What type of surface and tires are you running on?
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:44 AM
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How often are people changing the fluid in their diffs? I would think at some point it breaks down. Could be wrong though.
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Old 05-29-2017, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PIHGUAM1 View Post
So if anyone has any suggestions to get this buggy feeling better for my driving style, I would greatly appreciate it.
The 3 and/or 4 positions on the shock tower will make the car more responsive/twitchy. Go back to the 1 position on both towers, and do the usual heavier oil/spring setup in front, and add the front swaybar like casper suggested.
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Old 05-29-2017, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
What type of surface and tires are you running on?
It is an outdoor carpet track. There's assorted type of carpet, most high bite but some that is loose. Tried carpet pin tires, but they bite way to much. Traction roll city! Double Ds and Reflexs works well, which is what I was using on my last buggy, TD DEX410 V5.
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Old 05-29-2017, 05:07 PM
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On front tire with carpet tire you can cut 1 row of pin on the inside and outside, maybe more.
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by PIHGUAM1 View Post
It is an outdoor carpet track. There's assorted type of carpet, most high bite but some that is loose. Tried carpet pin tires, but they bite way to much. Traction roll city! Double Ds and Reflexs works well, which is what I was using on my last buggy, TD DEX410 V5.
Ok, that's what I was suspecting. I think there were some carpet setups somewhere online, probably a good idea to check those out for ideas. I would guess you need to lower ride height as the first matter of choice.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by PIHGUAM1 View Post
It is an outdoor carpet track. There's assorted type of carpet, most high bite but some that is loose. Tried carpet pin tires, but they bite way to much. Traction roll city! Double Ds and Reflexs works well, which is what I was using on my last buggy, TD DEX410 V5.
I run on med bite office carpet. I found that a pin type front tires made it traction roll way to easy even when I trimmed two rows of pins. I went with the JConcepts swaggers or Schumacher stagger rib and that helped a lot.

Recently I have been experimenting with using 2WD front swagger/staggers with a low profile Schumacher mini dart. Seems to be working good too.

For setup I have been using JR Mitch's setup sheet:

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2017/...etups.html?m=1

It is an indoor setup but might be a good starting point for you.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:57 PM
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Less front steering you can go back to the 15 front blocks. Also flatten out the camber. Glue the sidewalls of the tires. Sway bar. External shock limiters. Stiffer front spring.

There's a bunch of things you can do. But I would start with the easiest and try camber and tires (cut a few pins off of the front tires)
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Old 05-30-2017, 03:01 PM
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Is it necessary to replace the seals in the diff when you replace the fluids?
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