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Old 01-04-2006, 07:13 PM   #16
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the Putnam V2 12x2 in the MF2 rocks!!! I have them in both of my trucks, for gearing it really depends on the track size and layout but try starting with an 18 tooth.
Check out www.putnampropulsion.com for inffo on their motors, they custom wind the motors for each application so you'll need to call them or email them.

Good luck you'll be real happy with these motors.
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:00 AM   #17
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I have used KRs, V2s, and Cobalts and from my exeperiences I like the Cobalts the best.

KRs are too finicky to gear and eat brushes.

V2s if you run 4wd with a motor that has the top of the endbell pointing to the front of the chassis like the Academy SB be prepared for hung brushes as any dust can get in there. We went to using cotton pushed into the brush hood and oiled like you would do a nitro engine air filter but it would just delay the envitable and you would still be doing the same amount of maintenance as you would a regular motor albiet this was to free up the brushes and not skim the comm. These probably would be great motors in touring.

The Cobalt really put out some power, alot of power and the brushes don't burn. They just run and run. I think they are blowing them out at stormer as the Shock design is what trinity may just do across the board, not just with Epic I am thinking. I wouldn't be opposed to getting a cobalt because of this, they are excellent motors.

I have heard that the Checkpoints are good, but for me as gearing ranges are a premium on the Academy SB (till we get the larger spurs or the V2) anything that is really rpmish isn't going to fly.

For my money, its either an Epic Shock or Trinity Cobalt.

Really makes me wonder, is Reedy just giving up on motors?
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Old 01-08-2006, 03:12 AM   #18
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Well Masami was testing out a new Yokomo machined aluminum endbell at the worlds. I'm sure Reedy will be using that once its ready.
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:05 AM   #19
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hope to see something from them.
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Old 01-08-2006, 10:57 PM   #20
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Do the Epic shock motors have the same problem with the brushes sticking because of dust? I'm doubting it, but mabye the brush fit is really tight on that motor as well. How is brush life on the shock as well, anybody know? I need a new motor for offorad, and I'm leaning towards the checkpoint motor, but it is similar to the Orion, so it might have to same problem of the brushes sticking because of dust. I wonder if the new Cobalt 2 will have that problem...hmmm...
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:15 AM   #21
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so would you say that an orion v2 13x2 would be a suitable motor for a tight technical track? how many 5-7 minute runs would i get before having to cut the comm and replace the brushes. are brushes even required every time the comm is cut? fairly new to the electric scene and i'm running p2k2 and speed gem 14x2 motors and they seem to get dirty and need maintenance about every 7th run or so. i'm looking for the best most maintenance free motor i can get short of going brushless.
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:32 AM   #22
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Since you have multiple questions in one post I will try to answer them.

sk8z27---so would you say that an orion v2 13x2 would be a suitable motor for a tight technical track?
13x2 meaning double or 2 wires is plenty of torque for a tight track.If in a buggy try gearing it with a 20-22 and in truck with a 18-20

How many 5-7 minute runs would i get before having to cut the comm and replace the brushes?
This Depends on YOU the driver.How hard you hit the brakes and so on.Could be 15-18 runs.Could be 30-40 runs.

VERY IMPORTANT TIP: When you have your car off the track or in your pits DO NOT have the car in the air,pull the trigger to top speed and then hit the brakes.While this may seem "COOL" it's VERY damaging to your motor and can damage brushes and comms prematurely cutting down on your RUNS PER REBUILD.If you got $$$ to burn then go right ahead.Not a good idea though.

Are brushes even required every time the comm is cut?---NO.You just wanna make sure they are in good condition and not discolored.After you skim the comm you will need to spend about 2 minutes breaking them back in either with a motor device or installing it and holding the throttle just barely running for 2 minutes.I would say 1/16th of throttle pretty slow.

Fairly new to the electric scene and i'm running p2k2 and speed gem 14x2 motors and they seem to get dirty and need maintenance about every 7th run or so.

You say they get dirty?Can you elaborate on this?Do you race indoors,outdoors or just bashing/playing around????
When you say 7 runs with the stock the brushes should actually be fine unless your overgearing it or running it too long and burning up the brush.

The 14x2 you have will work just fine to start with.Have someone skim the comm and find out what size brush it uses whether it be a Standup(Older Speed Gems) or a P94 Style(Newwer speed gems) brush and get that in a XXX compound.This will make your mod motor last 20+ runs
You wont save money BRUSH wise really but cutting the comm and maintance wise you will.
You can also do XXX brushes in your P2k2.It will slow it down JUST a tad but you will get longer runs before rebuilding it.

I'm looking for the best most maintenance free motor i can get short of going brushless.

Sk8z27-Dont be confused.All motor's are different is all.
The Orion V2's:
Positive= Long Lasting Brushes and Comm.Good Performance.Great Magnets.

Negative's= Hardest Motor to Rebuild,You usually have to drop a FULL WIND to compete with other motor's.Fragile Brush Hoods,Brushes Stick,Gearing is a lil picky.

CheckPoint Motor:
Positive= Long Lasting Brushes and Comm.Great Performance,Great Magnets,and mid level rebuild.Brushhoods are NOT fragile.

Negative= Brushes are hard to find,Offroad Brush is $9.99 a pair and Gearing is a lil picky.

Trinity Cobalt 1:
Positive= With XXX Brushes this motor will have long brush and comm wear.
Good Perfomance,easy to rebuild.Brush Hoods are NOT fragile.
Important Factor.The Cobalt DOESNT have anything to do with long runtime.It's the Brushes.
You can make ANY trinity motor.Silver Can,GD Twins,D2,D3,D3.5,D4,P94,D5 and D6 all last a long time with XXX Brushes.

Negative's= Magnets wear fast,XXX brushes are $13.00.
Regular P94 Brushes for this motor are $3.00-4.00 but when using these brushes they dont last anywhere near as long.4-10 runs depending on circumstances.

Trinity Cobalt 2=
Positive=New Endbell and Brush Design.New Brush is designed for long lasting and to be easy on the comm.Comm last a long time with the XXX brush increasing time inbetween rebuilds.

Negative's=Magnets still wear fast,Brushes are $13.00 a pair.

Reedy KR=
Positive=Long Lasting Magnets,Easy Rebuild,Most PUNCH or TORQUE out of ANY mod motor.

Negative's=Brushes wear VERY fast and you have to cut the comm often.
Answer for this: Use the same long lasting brush Trinity Claims in their Cobalts but in the laydown version.Called the XXX Laydown.
If your missing my point.To make a Cobalt LAST a LONG TIME you have to use a $13.00 a pair brush.The Cobalt is like ANY OTHER motor when using regular compound P94 Brushes at $3.00-4.00 a pair.

Reedy TI=
Positive=One of the best motors around.Great Magnets,easy rebuild and tons of power.

Negative's=Brushes last as long as a regular mod motor with regular brushes.
Accepts Stand Up brushes.
Answer- Trinity XXX Standup Brushes,CS Electronics Brush,Reedy 777 Brush.

Bargain Basement Performance:
If your not in the top 3 at your local track,a basher looking for budget but longer lasting performance or just want the BEST BANG for your buck.

Orion Standup Enduro Brushes.These brushes are still $3.00-4.00 a pair and will last about in the middle of what a REGULAR brush and a XXX long lasting type brush will.Great Performance,easy on the comm and a great deal price wise.
Important Note: If you havent figured it out yet LONG LASTING is possible in ANY Motor.It's the Brush not just the motor.
The Orion Is the cheapest when it comes to this.
It's their design more than the motor itself.
Orion V2 Brushes=$3.00-4.00 a pair.
Issue is Brushoods Being Fragile,Hung Brushes and a PAIN to rebuild.

Trinity XXX brush,Reedy 777 Brush and the CS Electronics Brush
All go for $12.00-16.00 a pair.


Bargain of the Year is:
Orion Enduro Stand Up Brushes in a good Machine Wound Mod for MOST bashers and Even MOST racers.
If you think you have the driving skills,setup and batteries and the ONLY thing holding you back is motor then handwound all the way.
Handwound Motor's are more crucial in Sedan than Offroad

Hope this helps.
Les

P.S.I didnt have to spend the time to post this.I know if you look around on ebay and post you can find XXX brushes for $8.00-9.00 a pair.But for the other 98% of the people in the hobby they pay $12.00-14.00 a pair.
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Last edited by TexRacer; 02-08-2006 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:41 AM   #23
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Gearing for Offroad with a Mod Motor:

Important Note: All motor's are different.Even 2 motor's from the same manufacture can be different.Play with different pinions till you find what you like.

Buggy:
7-12 over the wind.OTW means teeth over the wind of the motor.
Example:
12 turn motor 7 OTW would be a 19
12 turn motor 12 OTW would be a 24 and so on.
When you gear low its usually for tighter tracks.When gearing lower you usually get more GRUNT from a motor and can also be harder to drive due to less of a powerband.

Truck:
4-9 over the wind.
Again smaller tigher tracks you usually gear LOWER on.Bigger tracks you gear taller on.

4wd:
5-10 over the wind.

Tips: Every motor is different and the powerband will be different for each TYPE of motor.
Gear accordingly.If the track is slick you may try a taller pinion to loose some torque and make it easier to drive.
If Racing offroad then you KNOW it's better to be slower and more consistant than to be OUT OF CONTROL overshooting corners,less consistant with TOOOOOO LOW of a motor.Remeber average MPH on most tracks is 12-15 MPH due to the infield.
If bashing.Strap it in and have a blast.

Make sure the diff is set right,adjust your slipper accordingly,play with the Subtrim for throttle to give you drag brake or none at all.
Alot of guys in mod will adjust drag brake INTO the motor to help slow it when you let off for a turn.You can adjust this by adjusting SUBTRIM Throttle on your transmitter.
Another TIP is to adjust the EPA THROTTLE on the BRAKE side so that when you hit the brakes it doesnt LOCK UP your motor and make your truck go into a uncontrollable skid.Adjust it to where when you hit the BRAKES it will drop the nose for you when jumping and when you wanna go into a corner hard that it SLOWS or barely LOCKS UP the tires instead of making it a out of control skid.

Hope this helps.
Les
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Old 02-08-2006, 12:45 PM   #24
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I run a Checkpoint 11x2 in my BJ4 and I couldn't be happier. It's CAKE to rebuild and it's not fragile at all. I get 20 - 30 runs between cuts and after two cuts the brushes still look almost new. You also get plenty of room on the "tabs" for soldering. I just fed my Schottkey through the hole on each tab, and now I have all the room I need to work with without worrying about keeping the diode on there.

The motor has INSANE RPM. I read the RCCA shootout, too, so when I bought them (I purchased 2) I was a little conerned over torque... but believe me, it's *not* an issue. In fact, I've dialed quite a bit of it out on my transmitter.

I really love these motors. I can't wait for the 19T to come out and I *really* hope the rumors about them building a stocker are true.

BTW, I'm not bagging on the other motors. I've never even run a V2, to be honest... though I have to admit that it does look like it would be a pain to work on.
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Old 02-08-2006, 12:52 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8z27
so would you say that an orion v2 13x2 would be a suitable motor for a tight technical track? how many 5-7 minute runs would i get before having to cut the comm and replace the brushes. are brushes even required every time the comm is cut? fairly new to the electric scene and i'm running p2k2 and speed gem 14x2 motors and they seem to get dirty and need maintenance about every 7th run or so. i'm looking for the best most maintenance free motor i can get short of going brushless.
What car will this be running in? If you're talking a 2WD or 4WD off-road buggy, then I would think that would be good... maybe a 12x2. As for runs, you'll get at least 20, and that's being pretty conservative. Some people run for 50+, but it depends on the circumstances.

Regardless, you won't have to cut it much at all. Definitely not every 7th run. I cut my Checkpoint every three weekends or so. And to be honest, each time I've cut them it's only been because I finally thought to myself "man, maybe I ought to cut this... it's been forever!", not because the motor actually needed it. I can't speak to the V2, but if they're anything like the Checkpoints, then they'll run very consistently between cuts. These newer gen motors are awesome. Heck, they brought me back from brushless! What I really like is that my 30th run after my second cut feels just like it did when I took it out of the box for the first time.
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:27 PM   #26
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Got a 13x3 shock based motor from Putnam last week and won my first race in Mod Buggy with it. Really smooth power band.
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:43 PM   #27
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i like trinty p94 matt franes .. that really flys..
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Old 02-09-2006, 06:53 AM   #28
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hey tex, great posts. i appreciate the time and advice.
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Old 02-09-2006, 11:06 PM   #29
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Awsome posts TexRacer!
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Old 02-10-2006, 07:21 PM   #30
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Well I've been running a Checkpoint 13X2 in my BK2 for about a month now and have only skimmed the comm once and the brushes still are fine. This motor has crazy rpm's but lacks torgue. I've actually undergeared down to a 19/78 to give it better bottom end and it seems to have come around now.

Also I run on a tight indoor hard packed clay surface.
Hope this helps.
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