649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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01-05-2017, 09:58 AM
#5116
Tech Regular
WE have switched to AKA Rebars they changed it to loose dirt instead of clay. I believe other tires will also work.
01-05-2017, 12:48 PM
#5117
Im trying to setup my B6d for an outdoor race. would these all work together for front wheels? if not what setup would you guys suggest? im not partial to any tire or wheel brand. just dont want to order the wrong stuff.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDHJY&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZEJ&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEXF&P=7#
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDHJY&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZEJ&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFEXF&P=7#
This is the wheel you want, I chose the DE wheel because that's what you had. The Plus is the 60mm/2.4 wheel. This is the 2.2 wheel that works with the tires you had picked out. Good luck.
01-06-2017, 09:03 AM
#5118
01-06-2017, 11:16 AM
#5119
Tech Apprentice
Any word on when the RDRP Brass Gearbox Brace will be available? There were press releases on it, but nothing is on Amain yet?
01-06-2017, 03:11 PM
#5120
how dare Amain not carry something that was announced 18 days ago!
01-06-2017, 04:42 PM
#5121
Any of y'all run sway bars on an indoor clay track? If so, what did you find out?
01-06-2017, 05:02 PM
#5122
01-06-2017, 05:12 PM
#5123
This is just desktop adjustments as it won't be till next week when I can get out to run it again...
01-06-2017, 11:32 PM
#5125
Tech Initiate
Skeeter, I ordered a new case and idler gear, which should be here on Thursday. Hopefully that'll fix it. I tried massaging and dremeling the case in all sorts of places but couldn't get it to go away.
It only happens when you put the two halves together, and I narrowed it down to the rub coming from the top-shaft area.
It only happens when you put the two halves together, and I narrowed it down to the rub coming from the top-shaft area.
I was so frustrated I created my own thread for the issue here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ing-issue.html
Hope it helps!
01-07-2017, 12:39 AM
#5126
Morning/Afternoon/Evening all, by request from racers I have created a new maintenance edition of the B6 Aussie Builds Blog. In this we go through some tips and step by step instructions on key rebuild items to keep your car performing at its best between races and in between race meets.
https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/
As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
https://aussiebuilds.wordpress.com/2...-health-check/
As always feel free to hit me up with any questions or comments.
01-07-2017, 02:32 AM
#5127
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
I'm running the Schelle long rear tower with the short shock eyelets and the shocks in the front of the arm. I want to try the shocks on the rear of the arm. Do I need to run the long shock eyelet when running the shocks in the rear of the arm with the Schelle long shock tower?
01-07-2017, 04:10 AM
#5128
Tech Regular
01-07-2017, 04:12 AM
#5129
Ok guys I have a b6 lay down car that is dam dam good. The only thing I noticed was the when you put the rear shock on front of the tower u are moving the wing forward the thickness of the tower mount. I'm guessing about 6 mm has anyone tried running the wing way back in close to the position it would be in with shocks on the back of the tower? I think I. Gonna try it just to see. I'd emagine it would have more of a effect on high speed rear traction but that's probably it. And it might make it jump more nose high. If anyone's plated with this I'd like to hear your opinions. Thank you
01-07-2017, 06:29 AM
#5130
Tech Regular
It's been offered as a tip by BT and the team to run the wing about 10mm back of the tower when running shocks in front of the arm.
