649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-27-2016, 10:06 AM
#4952
but if the bone is hitting the t-nut, removing those shims probably shifts the whole diff over enough to keep that from happening (well, doesn't stop it from happening but when it does, the whole diff moves so there is no bind). obviously not the way you want to handle the problem though.
12-27-2016, 10:26 AM
#4954
Anyone try the Imbue Brass pistons for the shocks?
12-27-2016, 10:30 AM
#4955
12-27-2016, 10:47 AM
#4956
Tried 7K before on both my b6 and xb2 and considering its pretty cold in the track right now, the rear breaks loose coming out of ALL the corners , even just slightly giving gas exiting out a 90 or 180 degree. Reason I went to 4K....which helped a lot. I treed loosening the slipper but I would sacrifice snap to clear the jumps
12-27-2016, 11:12 AM
#4957
Tried 7K before on both my b6 and xb2 and considering its pretty cold in the track right now, the rear breaks loose coming out of ALL the corners , even just slightly giving gas exiting out a 90 or 180 degree. Reason I went to 4K....which helped a lot. I treed loosening the slipper but I would sacrifice snap to clear the jumps
12-27-2016, 11:14 AM
#4958
Reason I say that is in my experience you need a serious amount of grip for a gear diff to work in a 2 wheel buggy.
12-27-2016, 12:37 PM
#4959
12-27-2016, 04:18 PM
#4960
So I have a nice broken in diff for a big race coming up but I want to turn tons of practice laps. I have a brand new gear diff I was wanting to run to learn the track. What gear diff oil should I use to be close to what a nice ball diff would feel like
12-27-2016, 04:55 PM
#4961
Tech Master
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anyone try alum shock towers? thoughts un these?
12-27-2016, 04:57 PM
#4962
Tight or loose... thick or thin... try 5000.. or split it with the 3 to make ya some 4
You'll spend more time taking the diff out than you will changing the oil. I have some 3000, 5000 & 7000 from my 1/8th buggy I've been experimenting with. But I also have an extra gear diff to prep with different weight for a quicker change if need be..
You'll spend more time taking the diff out than you will changing the oil. I have some 3000, 5000 & 7000 from my 1/8th buggy I've been experimenting with. But I also have an extra gear diff to prep with different weight for a quicker change if need be..
12-27-2016, 05:05 PM
#4963
Would using shock oil 100 weight or less be bad. Can u make a gear diff turn smooth
12-27-2016, 05:07 PM
#4964
Tech Apprentice
Hey love this thread and just getting back into things after being away for many years. I bought a B6 and went to the local track to see what the common specs and requirements were. The requirements are pretty relaxed and for stock some people are running 17.5t and some people are doing 13.5t. So my questions is: Would it be stupid to buy a 17.5t and 13.5t motor if I can get a deal? Initially I would like to take some time to get used to things again so I thought starting with the 17.5t would make sense...
12-27-2016, 05:13 PM
#4965