649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-17-2016, 11:15 AM
#2659
What we need now is a black DLC shock shaft
08-17-2016, 01:04 PM
#2663
Schelle.
08-17-2016, 01:20 PM
#2665
The chrome shafts aren't worth the money. They show wear after a day of racing. Sure, at first they're a little smoother but developed wear super quick in my experience. They now sit in my box as backups incase I bend something.
08-17-2016, 02:32 PM
#2668
08-17-2016, 02:39 PM
#2669
08-17-2016, 02:41 PM
#2670
I ran them on mine and it seems to make the steering more rigid, where before on corners the inside wheel would always seem to chatter.
The only thing I didn't like was the two screws that come up from the bottom and hold the cross brace on don't really lock and if you go too tight they bind the steering. Yes.. I understand loctite is required, but I still didn't trust it for a day at the track. I ended up running slightly longer screws and using thin lock nuts to jam the screws after the were adjusted to where they wouldn't bind.
I used an aluminum horn as well because the FT bell cranks plowed into the kit plastic horn.