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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-01-2016, 03:43 PM
  #2191  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
with in an hour? What city?
It'll be in Phoenix. Give it a few weeks and the announcement will be more public.
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Old 08-01-2016, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
Really surprised SoCal doesn't have one yet.
Originally Posted by rvrslt1
It does??? What city?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...28617741,d.amc

Hope that works, I don't have the face-tubes at work.

Ricochet R/C raceway is the name of the track.

The track is amazing; the grip is always super consistent. It's well ran, the food is AWESOME, and the beer, well, is yummy.
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:38 PM
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Absolutely abhor the direction off-road is going. Finding traction with changing conditions has always been a part of off-road and carpet racing for off-road vehicles should not be the direction we are headed. If I want to race carpet I'll buy a touring car. I don't even like clay, but in Arizona I suppose it's beneficial.
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AZJP
Absolutely abhor the direction off-road is going. Finding traction with changing conditions has always been a part of off-road and carpet racing for off-road vehicles should not be the direction we are headed. If I want to race carpet I'll buy a touring car. I don't even like clay, but in Arizona I suppose it's beneficial.
Don't worry. Give it 6-8 more weeks and we'll get a solid dirt track in AZ.
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Old 08-01-2016, 08:00 PM
  #2195  
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Originally Posted by Socket
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...28617741,d.amc

Hope that works, I don't have the face-tubes at work.

Ricochet R/C raceway is the name of the track.

The track is amazing; the grip is always super consistent. It's well ran, the food is AWESOME, and the beer, well, is yummy.
OK technically its Southern California but its not really Socal. For most who racers in Socal Vegas is actually closer i think.
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Old 08-01-2016, 08:43 PM
  #2196  
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Can anyone confirm the correct length of the gearbox half screws?

The B6 manual states they should be 16mm, the B6D manual says they should be 14mm. The laydown conversion comes with 2 gearbox half screws (this makes sense because the laydown uses 6 versus the 4 in the standup) but doesn't say what length the screws are. And finally the AE titanium screw kit location supplement states that both the B6 and B6D use 14mm screws.

It's looking like the B6 manual is incorrect but I'm trying to confirm. Right now I have my laydown gearbox built with 16mm screws per that manual but am wondering if that's really correct.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:19 PM
  #2197  
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Originally Posted by AMessy
Can anyone confirm the correct length of the gearbox half screws?

The B6 manual states they should be 16mm, the B6D manual says they should be 14mm. The laydown conversion comes with 2 gearbox half screws (this makes sense because the laydown uses 6 versus the 4 in the standup) but doesn't say what length the screws are. And finally the AE titanium screw kit location supplement states that both the B6 and B6D use 14mm screws.

It's looking like the B6 manual is incorrect but I'm trying to confirm. Right now I have my laydown gearbox built with 16mm screws per that manual but am wondering if that's really correct.

14mm screws horizontally to bolt the halves together is correct. That is all I had in the kit. So it is an error.




In mounting to the chassis I had to look at the B6D manual on the waterfall mount screw length which is 12mm as the B6 manual assumed all 8 screws overall was the same length at 10mm. That is the error in the B6 manual too.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs
OK technically its Southern California but its not really Socal. For most who racers in Socal Vegas is actually closer i think.
I live in Arizona. To me, 3/4 of California is Socal. Hell, we think Salinas is Socal.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:18 PM
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B6 performed well at practice today. Had the rear shocks in front at first ... rear was super loose. Moved the shocks at the rear and it drove better. B6 is very sensitive to track condition. If the track starts drying up , you can feel the rear getting looser in the corner. Compared to my B5Mlite, I can push the buggy harder in the corners... in the straights, it's the same with the B5Mlite. The fan worked like a charm. had to put 3 layers of 3m double sided tape underneath it to take away that weird noise due to vibration. Motor was running cool and darn fast. My brother drove the car and broke this puny rear hub insert... do they make an aluminum version of this?


Last edited by Phillip F; 08-01-2016 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 08-02-2016, 02:02 AM
  #2200  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
B6 performed well at practice today. Had the rear shocks in front at first ... rear was super loose. Moved the shocks at the rear and it drove better. B6 is very sensitive to track condition. If the track starts drying up , you can feel the rear getting looser in the corner. Compared to my B5Mlite, I can push the buggy harder in the corners... in the straights, it's the same with the B5Mlite. The fan worked like a charm. had to put 3 layers of 3m double sided tape underneath it to take away that weird noise due to vibration. Motor was running cool and darn fast. My brother drove the car and broke this puny rear hub insert... do they make an aluminum version of this?

There should be an aluminum backing plate, it was on there, correct?
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 190mph
14mm screws horizontally to bolt the halves together is correct. That is all I had in the kit. So it is an error.




In mounting to the chassis I had to look at the B6D manual on the waterfall mount screw length which is 12mm as the B6 manual assumed all 8 screws overall was the same length at 10mm. That is the error in the B6 manual too.
Thanks for the heads up. I had purchased 16mm Ti screws to go with my laydown parts based on what the B6 manual stated and they seemed long. Once I investigated is when I found conflicting info.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:09 AM
  #2202  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
B6 performed well at practice today. Had the rear shocks in front at first ... rear was super loose. Moved the shocks at the rear and it drove better. B6 is very sensitive to track condition. If the track starts drying up , you can feel the rear getting looser in the corner. Compared to my B5Mlite, I can push the buggy harder in the corners... in the straights, it's the same with the B5Mlite. The fan worked like a charm. had to put 3 layers of 3m double sided tape underneath it to take away that weird noise due to vibration. Motor was running cool and darn fast. My brother drove the car and broke this puny rear hub insert... do they make an aluminum version of this?

Time for some schelle hubs. I have mine on order.
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:09 AM
  #2203  
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Used the old B5m servo mount and made a little fan mount for the D car.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-b6dfan1.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-b6dfan2.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-b6dfan3.jpg  
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:24 AM
  #2204  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Used the old B5m servo mount and made a little fan mount for the D car.
Nice Matt! Can you get me some closeups of where the servo mount bolts to so I can add it to the front page?
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
Nice Matt! Can you get me some closeups of where the servo mount bolts to so I can add it to the front page?
You can kind of see it in the third pic, right at the edge of the spur gear. I will get an up close shot for you later today.
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