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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-30-2019, 04:58 AM
  #9091  
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Originally Posted by rsxskyd View Post
Have you tried other configurations like only running bulkhead brass or vise versa and did it react differently?
The more weight you run near one end of the car the SLOWER that end will react and the MORE OVERALL effect there will be once the car has rolled as far as it is going to etc.

The closer that weight is to the axle centre of mass of the vehicle (usually somewhere near the middle of the wheelbase on a laydown mid-motor 2wd) the LESS effect that weight will have on that axle.

So for example if you ran a 35g brass bulkhead to get the mid-exit steering you want in high speed sweeping corners but the car was slow to respond in a tight twisty infield section you could remove the brass bulkhead and put weight in the servo area, but you'd have to put a lot more weight in at the servo to match the loading provided by the brass bulkhead, lets say 55g for sake of discussion. This is because the servo weight is much closer to the centre of mass.

Now this of course isn't the whole story, nothing with vehicle dynamics ever is that simple. Because you have less weight over the front axle that axle needs less spring rate to achieve the same static axle loading so you go down a spring and you get the high speed steering back BUT you lose a little bit of the initial steering that you gained by moving the weight back. Actually you'd put less weight in at the servo than you thought you needed as now you have a softer spring to load .... there becomes a balancing point.

How would you get the initial steering that you originally moved the mass to get, probably stand the front shocks up a hole and raise the front roll centre a little.

SO ... how do you decided where to put the weight to start with?

As a rule of thumb;

High grip = twitchy car = put weight over the axle to dumb down the response.

Low grip = lazy turn in and rotation from the rear giving lots of mid-exit steering on power = weight more towards the middle / rear

If I'm going to a track I don't know I will build the car as so depending on the layout and surface;

Tight & twisty = less weight at bulkhead more in electronics area
Open and sweeping = more weight at the bulkhead less in the electronics area

Low grip (wet astroturf or gym floor) = car as light as I can and more central - rear bias (1480g-1500g typical)

Medium grip (sandy astroturf / old wornout carpet (primafelt type) = car a little heavier to make it safer but weight more central (1500g-1550g typical)

High grip (clean astroturf, new primafelt or older EOS) = a little heavier again, weight slightly more forward bias (probably all weights except the brass bulkhead) (1525g - 1575g typical)

Very high grip (fresh EOS carpet) = heavy car, weight as far forward as possible (1600g-1650g)
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Old 01-30-2019, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
The more weight you run near one end of the car the SLOWER that end will react and the MORE OVERALL effect there will be once the car has rolled as far as it is going to etc.

The closer that weight is to the axle centre of mass of the vehicle (usually somewhere near the middle of the wheelbase on a laydown mid-motor 2wd) the LESS effect that weight will have on that axle.

So for example if you ran a 35g brass bulkhead to get the mid-exit steering you want in high speed sweeping corners but the car was slow to respond in a tight twisty infield section you could remove the brass bulkhead and put weight in the servo area, but you'd have to put a lot more weight in at the servo to match the loading provided by the brass bulkhead, lets say 55g for sake of discussion. This is because the servo weight is much closer to the centre of mass.

Now this of course isn't the whole story, nothing with vehicle dynamics ever is that simple. Because you have less weight over the front axle that axle needs less spring rate to achieve the same static axle loading so you go down a spring and you get the high speed steering back BUT you lose a little bit of the initial steering that you gained by moving the weight back. Actually you'd put less weight in at the servo than you thought you needed as now you have a softer spring to load .... there becomes a balancing point.

How would you get the initial steering that you originally moved the mass to get, probably stand the front shocks up a hole and raise the front roll centre a little.

SO ... how do you decided where to put the weight to start with?

As a rule of thumb;

High grip = twitchy car = put weight over the axle to dumb down the response.

Low grip = lazy turn in and rotation from the rear giving lots of mid-exit steering on power = weight more towards the middle / rear

If I'm going to a track I don't know I will build the car as so depending on the layout and surface;

Tight & twisty = less weight at bulkhead more in electronics area
Open and sweeping = more weight at the bulkhead less in the electronics area

Low grip (wet astroturf or gym floor) = car as light as I can and more central - rear bias (1480g-1500g typical)

Medium grip (sandy astroturf / old wornout carpet (primafelt type) = car a little heavier to make it safer but weight more central (1500g-1550g typical)

High grip (clean astroturf, new primafelt or older EOS) = a little heavier again, weight slightly more forward bias (probably all weights except the brass bulkhead) (1525g - 1575g typical)

Very high grip (fresh EOS carpet) = heavy car, weight as far forward as possible (1600g-1650g)
I greatly appreciate you taking the time and giving me this explanation. This is literally exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much!!! Makes sense the way you broke that down. Im use to running hard packed indoor clay, been out of the hobby for about 5ish years and now that im back, everything around me is carpet so its something Im not familiar with.
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Old 01-31-2019, 04:28 AM
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My pleasure, happy to help any way I can.
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Old 02-02-2019, 10:06 AM
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Thumbs up b6 sway bars ...

hey guys, just picked up a B6 from a member on here. so far very happy with it. I will be running on carpet, and I'm looking to add sway bars. the B6 rear bars are discontinued (91736) but it looks like I can use the 6.1 rear bars and hardware according to Associated, although it appears to be missing rod ends, which I should be able to piece together.

anyways, I'm wondering what everyone has done for front bars on their B6's or if they are generally not needed?

Thanks
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Old 02-03-2019, 03:05 PM
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B6.1 Anti-roll Bar Hardware
The hardware packs #71134 and #91821 do not include the ball cups. Purchase them here: #91820..

You need to buy the tie rod ends to get the pieces to finish it
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91820/
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Old 02-03-2019, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by soSincerious View Post
hey guys, just picked up a B6 from a member on here. so far very happy with it. I will be running on carpet, and I'm looking to add sway bars. the B6 rear bars are discontinued (91736) but it looks like I can use the 6.1 rear bars and hardware according to Associated, although it appears to be missing rod ends, which I should be able to piece together.

anyways, I'm wondering what everyone has done for front bars on their B6's or if they are generally not needed?

Thanks
You may also need a couple of washers and small screws for holding the rear bar in place. As you noted, they no longer make the holding piece as it has been discontinued.
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:55 PM
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Can someone help me get started 17.5 gearing @ OCRC whats everyone running Tekin motor gen3. Thanks
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Chase1472 View Post
Can someone help me get started 17.5 gearing @ OCRC whats everyone running Tekin motor gen3. Thanks
I run the tekin Gen 3 and others run the new "S" type Reedy motors. Most all new generation motors are fast. On the B6 and 6.1 were running 72 spur and 25 to 27 tooth pinion. Hopes this helps.
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TC5Driven View Post
I run the tekin Gen 3 and others run the new "S" type Reedy motors. Most all new generation motors are fast. On the B6 and 6.1 were running 72 spur and 25 to 27 tooth pinion. Hopes this helps.
Thanks, gets me started !
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TC5Driven View Post
I run the tekin Gen 3 and others run the new "S" type Reedy motors. Most all new generation motors are fast. On the B6 and 6.1 were running 72 spur and 25 to 27 tooth pinion. Hopes this helps.
Would you suggest the same for a gen 2 tekin in 17.5? Or go a different route? I have a 72 and 69 on hand and still havnt made the decision on where to start
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rsxskyd View Post
Would you suggest the same for a gen 2 tekin in 17.5? Or go a different route? I have a 72 and 69 on hand and still havnt made the decision on where to start
The older motors don't have as much power as the new ones. Go with the 69 spur and pinion from29 to 31 and check motor temp and gear from there.
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Old 02-08-2019, 12:48 PM
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Thank you, have a 69/30 installed now, have yet to run it but thats where my slight memory of rc racing has put me lol
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:08 PM
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Default new b6

been racing for about 6 months now and was qualifying into A mains with my b4 but was getting my ass kicked by all the new gen cars so i had to go out and pick up a new gen car myself. my local is a medium high masonite/capet mix so i ended up getting a b6 with a ball diff installed for 190 which isn't bad. came with brand new tires never glued, i was wondering whats with the b6 shock towers and how come they are pretty much extinct to the new geometry towers, im finding it hard setting up my car cause i cant tell what towers the ft drivers are using in their b6 setups from a couple years ago.
also what are all the adaptable b6.1 parts i can put on my car besides the arms and tower, would a 6.1 front chassis brace fit on a b6? thanks, looking forward to this race season.


also i did upload photos but apparently i can not upload until i make 10 posts on this forum which is kind of dumb lol.
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bmxguy73 View Post
been racing for about 6 months now and was qualifying into A mains with my b4 but was getting my ass kicked by all the new gen cars so i had to go out and pick up a new gen car myself. my local is a medium high masonite/capet mix so i ended up getting a b6 with a ball diff installed for 190 which isn't bad. came with brand new tires never glued, i was wondering whats with the b6 shock towers and how come they are pretty much extinct to the new geometry towers, im finding it hard setting up my car cause i cant tell what towers the ft drivers are using in their b6 setups from a couple years ago.
also what are all the adaptable b6.1 parts i can put on my car besides the arms and tower, would a 6.1 front chassis brace fit on a b6? thanks, looking forward to this race season.


also i did upload photos but apparently i can not upload until i make 10 posts on this forum which is kind of dumb lol.
everything except transmission components and chassis do fit. New front tower adds an inner hole and removes the outer one. I would recommend you to start with cavalierys carpet setup on petitrc
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Old 02-16-2019, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lexusbest View Post
everything except transmission components and chassis do fit. New front tower adds an inner hole and removes the outer one. I would recommend you to start with cavalierys carpet setup on petitrc
awesome i will check it out thanks hoss
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