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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 02-21-2018, 02:53 AM
  #8701  
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Originally Posted by Hasi View Post
Hey guys,

sorry for jumping in, but a question bothers me right now...

I run the B5R and SC5M actually and use LRP square packs in both of them since I could get them cheap.
To me it looks like as if square packs could still be run in the B6D according to the available space as I suspect from the photos.

Is that correct?
Yes they will fit with the standup transmission but not with the laydown. I used saddle packs (same size as square) in my b6d outdoors. You need to run the battery brace posts in the forward position and leave off the rear battery retainers on the strap itself.

Ray
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:33 PM
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Anyone have some information/an image/web link/some advice on drilling these 3rd holes in the arms? I'd like to give that a try, but don't know where I should drill, what size bit to use, how deep to go, etc. Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 02-22-2018, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by PerryCodes View Post
Anyone have some information/an image/web link/some advice on drilling these 3rd holes in the arms? I'd like to give that a try, but don't know where I should drill, what size bit to use, how deep to go, etc. Any help would be appreciated!
The general idea is to drill 1 hole further inboard (roughly the same distance between holes as the 2 existing ones). For a more accurate spacing, I used one of the alloy hub inserts that are on the kit rear hubs - the spacing from one hole to the next is very similar. I used a long m3 grub screw to screw through one of the holes and into the existing inner hole on the arm. Its then a good template to drill the new hole. I used a 2.5mm drill bit and you only need to drill through the outer web of the arm.

Sorry no pics.

FYI one of the advantages with the B6.1 rear arms is that the hole spacing can be finely adjusted. The change to the 3rd hole is quite noticeable (its worth 1-2 spring rate steps). The B6.1 arms will allow partway settings as well for fine tuning.

Ray
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Old 02-22-2018, 12:15 PM
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Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?
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Old 02-22-2018, 02:33 PM
  #8705  
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Originally Posted by RsA89 View Post
Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?

Do you have a picture?
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Old 02-22-2018, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RsA89 View Post
Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?
What is the shock shaft stroke? Refer to the setup sheet to see what I am talking about just in case I am not making sense.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...Setup_2016.pdf
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Old 02-22-2018, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
What is the shock shaft stroke? Refer to the setup sheet to see what I am talking about just in case I am not making sense.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...Setup_2016.pdf


Stock 28mm

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Old 02-22-2018, 06:30 PM
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I can't tell but are you using plastic rear hubs?

What pills do you have in the C insert?
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
To go to 67mm bones/axles and achieve the benefits.....you need 91763 with either 91760 hubs or the Schelle hubs and 67mm adaptors.
New to the hobby and have my b6d. I have the Schelle hubs (SCH1234) and just got the 67mm AE CVA (91763) what are the adaptors I need to install them I see you’ve mentioned. Thanks!
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RsA89 View Post
Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?

How much camber do you have?
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Old 02-23-2018, 05:10 AM
  #8711  
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Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Yes they will fit with the standup transmission but not with the laydown. I used saddle packs (same size as square) in my b6d outdoors. You need to run the battery brace posts in the forward position and leave off the rear battery retainers on the strap itself.

Ray
Thank you, Ray

I think about switching to a B6D from my B5R since the prices for new kits have dropped recently - the B6.1D is no option cause the square packs wouldn't fit as I can tell from the pictures and my batteries are like brand new
Lay down is no option though cause I race on outdoor loose, dusty dirt.
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Old 02-23-2018, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ste_lazzaro View Post
Hi everybody,
I'm new here.. and I'm looking for some feedback on the B6 split laydown gearbox from Shapeways.
Is anyone using it? Impressions?
I am seriously thinking on getting one, after AE let me down with the B6.1 release.. basically not allowing retrofit of the new split gearbox to the B6..
Thank you!
I have the split shape ways laydown case in two of my turf b6 buggies. I have had them for long time. No issues with the cases. I love only removing a handful of screws and getting the gear diff out. Cuts down on maintenance time.
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:51 AM
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A lot of us started having issues with the stock length bones. A little wear on the cups and they would pop out on a landing, etc. (cups were still good) We all went with the 67mm bones. No problems since. We are running low ride heights on high grip carpet.

On another subject. Have you ran this yet? Looks like you have a lot of diff fluid leaking out. If so, you may want to pull the diff and take a look.

Originally Posted by RsA89 View Post
Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?

Last edited by Reno; 02-23-2018 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:08 AM
  #8714  
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Originally Posted by RsA89 View Post
Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?
Another option is to add the axle shims 91605. They space the axle out 1mm.
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Old 02-23-2018, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by RsA89 View Post
Just finished my B6 build, the CVA bone at full droop, is barely in.
Anybody else encounter this?
If you're running 65 mm bones you need to use the holes nearest the car on the axles, the other holes are for 67 mm bones?
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