649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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11-07-2017, 02:28 AM
#7591
Is high grip grey carpet, different than high grip green carpet...............sorry I had to LOL
11-07-2017, 09:19 AM
#7592
Looks like MIP is coming out with a 67mm driveshaft version of the pucks system for ball diff. The video on their website says you will need the new Associated 67mm rear hub and drive axle to accommodate the new 67mm shaft setup. From my understanding, people were already running 67mm steel drive shafts with either the Schelle hub designed specifically for 67mm shafts, or people were running the b5 hubs with different plastic inserts for the inner bearing. Both of which, to my knowledge, were with the stock axles.
Can anyone explain to me why the 67mm pucks kit will not work with the Schelle hubs and stock axles or the bearing inserts with stock axles?
Edit: Should have specified that I'm talking about the aluminum b5 hubs. I think the stock plastic hub is the same on b5/b6 and obviously doesn't have the plastic bearing insert.
Can anyone explain to me why the 67mm pucks kit will not work with the Schelle hubs and stock axles or the bearing inserts with stock axles?
Edit: Should have specified that I'm talking about the aluminum b5 hubs. I think the stock plastic hub is the same on b5/b6 and obviously doesn't have the plastic bearing insert.
11-07-2017, 09:25 AM
#7593
During Saturday practice, I broke and replaced an arm at the left front corner of my B6. Saw a minor ding on the outside of the Kashima shock body at that corner which I deemed insignificant. So, I replaced the arm and started practicing again only to have a huge accident as soon as the car got up to speed. Turned out that the piston hung up on that ding inside the shock body while going through the fastest section of the track. Ouch!
Wish I had caught the significance of that damage to the shock body before putting the car back on the track. My bad. Car is getting a total rebuild (and intense inspection).
Parts list:
New style chassis plate (weighs 14G more)
Side rails - hard
Kashima shock bodies -front
All plastics at front
Titanium screw kit (weighs 20G less)
Wish I had caught the significance of that damage to the shock body before putting the car back on the track. My bad. Car is getting a total rebuild (and intense inspection).
Parts list:
New style chassis plate (weighs 14G more)
Side rails - hard
Kashima shock bodies -front
All plastics at front
Titanium screw kit (weighs 20G less)
Last edited by Still Bill; 11-09-2017 at 08:15 AM.
11-07-2017, 09:28 AM
#7595
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
To run the 67 you will need to change the rear axles to a 67mm compatible rear axle (OR BMI inserts with kit axle). If you already have a Schelle or AE alum hubs, the Schelle SCH1285 conversion axles update for 67mm CVAs and keep your same hubs. You can also buy the AE 67mm axles and 67mm aluminum hubs.
11-07-2017, 06:04 PM
#7596
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
On my B6 setup for turf/carpet, I have worn out the upper shock bushings (twice) AND the holes in the plastic shock caps (once) during their first four months of use. So, switching to AE aluminum caps and aftermarket bushings.
No such quick wear issues with the shock bushings on my car setup for clay track racing.
No such quick wear issues with the shock bushings on my car setup for clay track racing.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...rp0248/p413819
11-07-2017, 08:04 PM
#7597
Use these with the stock shock caps and your problems will go away.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...rp0248/p413819
https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolut...rp0248/p413819
11-08-2017, 07:50 AM
#7598
I would not go that route. The avid standoffs and bushing work better. As for the alum caps....what do you want to wear out the caps or the standoffs? Alum standoff and alum caps, just means metal on metal wear. The AE shock caps are only a few dollars for the plastic caps. I personally replace them everyone once in a while, but my avid teflon bushing and standoffs have been going strong for over year.
11-08-2017, 01:57 PM
#7599
how to make a gear diff work similar to a ball diff?
11-08-2017, 06:34 PM
#7600
Seriously?!?!?! These are 2.99.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...bushing_balls/
What is the big deal about just replacing them? I am pretty sure AE did this so they are serviceable.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...bushing_balls/
What is the big deal about just replacing them? I am pretty sure AE did this so they are serviceable.
11-09-2017, 08:22 AM
#7601
Seriously?!?!?! These are 2.99.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...bushing_balls/
What is the big deal about just replacing them? I am pretty sure AE did this so they are serviceable.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...bushing_balls/
What is the big deal about just replacing them? I am pretty sure AE did this so they are serviceable.
Both have Delrin bushings.
Last edited by Still Bill; 11-09-2017 at 08:35 AM.
11-09-2017, 11:02 AM
#7602
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I would not go that route. The avid standoffs and bushing work better. As for the alum caps....what do you want to wear out the caps or the standoffs? Alum standoff and alum caps, just means metal on metal wear. The AE shock caps are only a few dollars for the plastic caps. I personally replace them everyone once in a while, but my avid teflon bushing and standoffs have been going strong for over year.
11-09-2017, 11:41 AM
#7603
Best thing I found was 35 wt shock oil and only use two of the gears. Another option is keep 4 gears in and fill it half way with black grease instead of oil.
It still won't be as good as a properly set up ball diff, but it will be better than a crunchy one.
It still won't be as good as a properly set up ball diff, but it will be better than a crunchy one.
11-09-2017, 12:02 PM
#7604
i was told 20k. so now im confused, what would be better thicker or thinner oil?