649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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09-20-2017, 02:13 PM
#7321
Hi Guys,
I need some Tipps for my B6 and I hope you can help me.
What kind of gearing is ok for a mid-size Astro track? I'm using a 6.5T Fleta with 20/78 now. Is it to short?
What is the best Hub-Driveshaft combination for Astro? Schelle or Asso? Any positives to run 67mm Driveshafts?
Is the stock Slipper and Spurgear good and durable enough ? Or does it makes sense to switch to a machined Spurgear like a JC or to a new Slipperunit (Schelle or Avid) ?
My last question is what is your favourite Batterymount? I don't like the stock one because I can't see the polarity on my shortys.
I need some Tipps for my B6 and I hope you can help me.
What kind of gearing is ok for a mid-size Astro track? I'm using a 6.5T Fleta with 20/78 now. Is it to short?
What is the best Hub-Driveshaft combination for Astro? Schelle or Asso? Any positives to run 67mm Driveshafts?
Is the stock Slipper and Spurgear good and durable enough ? Or does it makes sense to switch to a machined Spurgear like a JC or to a new Slipperunit (Schelle or Avid) ?
My last question is what is your favourite Batterymount? I don't like the stock one because I can't see the polarity on my shortys.
09-21-2017, 01:02 PM
#7322
question on the new ae hubs and 67mm bones, do you still use the 91605 cva axle shims...thanks
09-21-2017, 02:52 PM
#7323
Hi Guys,
I need some Tipps for my B6 and I hope you can help me.
What kind of gearing is ok for a mid-size Astro track? I'm using a 6.5T Fleta with 20/78 now. Is it to short?
What is the best Hub-Driveshaft combination for Astro? Schelle or Asso? Any positives to run 67mm Driveshafts?
Is the stock Slipper and Spurgear good and durable enough ? Or does it makes sense to switch to a machined Spurgear like a JC or to a new Slipperunit (Schelle or Avid) ?
My last question is what is your favourite Batterymount? I don't like the stock one because I can't see the polarity on my shortys.
I need some Tipps for my B6 and I hope you can help me.
What kind of gearing is ok for a mid-size Astro track? I'm using a 6.5T Fleta with 20/78 now. Is it to short?
What is the best Hub-Driveshaft combination for Astro? Schelle or Asso? Any positives to run 67mm Driveshafts?
Is the stock Slipper and Spurgear good and durable enough ? Or does it makes sense to switch to a machined Spurgear like a JC or to a new Slipperunit (Schelle or Avid) ?
My last question is what is your favourite Batterymount? I don't like the stock one because I can't see the polarity on my shortys.
power. An 7.5 or 8.5 is plently.of motor if you drive well and carry corner speed.
I didn't really care for the 67mm bones with the offset hubs. There where some
places on the track where they where faster but in general they created to much
rear grip for carpet or astro. I prefer the cva shims from AE or MIP to allow full
use of the rear pill adjustment.
Nothing wrong wih the stock spur or slipper.
All my batteries have the poles on the same side. You can't reach the wrong pole
with the wires because of there length. I would not buy a battery that had the poles
reversed because there is always an option that has the poles in the proper place
for my cars.
09-21-2017, 02:58 PM
#7324
how AE or Schelle desigened there's but the BMI bearing cups only had about 1.5
MM of offset so the bones plunge was only .5mm deeper. Might be enough to keep
the bones in for those having them fall out with the really wide pin settings and
maybe not. It's gonna have a lot to do with your droop and compresion stroke on
the rear shocks. I would keep the shims around and try and aim for plunge about
In the middle of the outdrive at ride height.
09-21-2017, 06:49 PM
#7325
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Posted in painting forum but there hasn't been any activity there since mid Sept. So I'm using rattle can Tamiya spray paint one color. Also bought Tamiya ps-55 flat clear to paint the outside flat using a Jconcepts body.
Can I apply my decals on the outside of the body and then spray the flat clear on the outside to make the decals look flat too, with no damage to the decals themselves?
Jake
Can I apply my decals on the outside of the body and then spray the flat clear on the outside to make the decals look flat too, with no damage to the decals themselves?
Jake
09-22-2017, 05:16 AM
#7326
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
stick a decal you aren't planning on using or even just some of the extra clear stuff from around the actual logos on a scrap piece of lexan and try it, its probably fine but it probably depends on the adhesive used in the specific decals you are using
09-22-2017, 06:13 PM
#7328
Tech Adept
Not sure if you guys have talked about this, but Ive noticed the B6/D prices are dropping. Is there rumor of a new buggy dropping soon?
09-22-2017, 06:58 PM
#7331
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Formerly Portland TX, Now Amarillo
Posts: 1,239
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
09-22-2017, 07:02 PM
#7332
Tech Adept
Ya I can deff see a FL version of this car coming out. Im looking to make the switch from TLR to AE, as I already own the T5M and love that truck. I really enjoy my 22 3.0 but AE is stocked a lot more at my local track.
09-22-2017, 07:29 PM
#7333
Nov 2015, saw some combos prior to B6 announcement offered where they even added a complete B5 rear motor conversion when buying one of the B5M versions.
not saying based on their recent actions, we could be in for a incoming B7, but i do think updated B6's are warranted. years back a 13 year run on a car worked, but then the tree was chopped down, then a 3 year run worked. the bar has been raised by other companies doing updates faster, but then again they don't have a huge cottage industry modding their cars to the extent AE does
09-23-2017, 08:01 AM
#7334
AE sorta did same thing prior to B6, they came out with Championship edition
Nov 2015, saw some combos prior to B6 announcement offered where they even added a complete B5 rear motor conversion when buying one of the B5M versions.
not saying based on their recent actions, we could be in for a incoming B7, but i do think updated B6's are warranted. years back a 13 year run on a car worked, but then the tree was chopped down, then a 3 year run worked. the bar has been raised by other companies doing updates faster, but then again they don't have a huge cottage industry modding their cars to the extent AE does
Nov 2015, saw some combos prior to B6 announcement offered where they even added a complete B5 rear motor conversion when buying one of the B5M versions.
not saying based on their recent actions, we could be in for a incoming B7, but i do think updated B6's are warranted. years back a 13 year run on a car worked, but then the tree was chopped down, then a 3 year run worked. the bar has been raised by other companies doing updates faster, but then again they don't have a huge cottage industry modding their cars to the extent AE does
09-23-2017, 10:05 AM
#7335
yes, along with a few more on the laydown. imo even the gullwing up sweep on rear arm is too much, still severe drive shaft angle that even 2mm spacers under the gearbox and rear hub 3 position really don't help much,
minor updates, imo simple
-alum rear D-block
-rear A-arms, with the extra holes
-67mm drive shafts
-hubs for above (don't have to be alum)
-spacers for gear box
something to consider for carpet
-maybe gear box redo, with easier access to diff and diff higher
-or eccentric outdrive cam system (been done for years in TC)
minor updates, imo simple
-alum rear D-block
-rear A-arms, with the extra holes
-67mm drive shafts
-hubs for above (don't have to be alum)
-spacers for gear box
something to consider for carpet
-maybe gear box redo, with easier access to diff and diff higher
-or eccentric outdrive cam system (been done for years in TC)