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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 06-02-2016, 02:30 PM   #691
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I'd love to see that servo opened up to see what's inside of his version. Could be the same retail thing, but I would not be surprised at all if it used higher quality stuff -- a very typical move in all sports and hobbies.
That or Cav puts in a new servo every race weekend.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:09 PM   #692
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I felt a difference in speed when i moved from savox servos to a protek 160t. Definitely noticeable and was turning in a little early. Strange the specs are almost the same. I have a reedy too. Almost as good. I believe they are made by the same company. I can't stand listening to the Savox personally, but that has no bearing on the performance. Putting an old one in my Xb4 as I don't mind slowing that buggy down a bit.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:09 PM   #693
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[QUOTE=Finalist;14553224]I'd love to see that servo opened up to see what's inside of his version. Could be the same retail thing, but I would not be surprised at all if it used higher quality stuff -- a very typical move in all sports and hobbies.[/QUOTE

Really do you really think he bothers I've heard some crap but wow
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:57 PM   #694
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I have a 130ss that I have used for a couple years now. It is holding up well. I would probably get the 160t for the b6d. If I want a shorty servo
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:08 AM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
I'm looking at the D version, for some light racing. I don't need anything fancy, just the most reliable servo that won't break the bank, I'd like to stay under $100
Check out the Reedy servos. They work awesome!

Plus you can get this on tower for 94.99 then if you spend a couple extra bucks you get to use the $15 off coupon.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFCBC&P=ML
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:16 AM   #696
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Originally Posted by Mxer210 View Post
Check out the Reedy servos. They work awesome!

Plus you can get this on tower for 94.99 then if you spend a couple extra bucks you get to use the $15 off coupon.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFCBC&P=ML
I have the 1206 in my b44.3 and b5m. I love them.
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Old 06-07-2016, 01:46 PM   #697
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Joona Haatanen doing some 4 gear testing. Sigh... and the rest of us just get to twiddle our thumbs lol.

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Old 06-07-2016, 01:48 PM   #698
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Awesome thanks for sharing!
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:22 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
The body doesnt cover the spur gearon a traditional stand up transmission so you use a gear cover. On the laydown transmission the body is designed to cover everything. No need to cover it twice.
I did not realize that. Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:17 PM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
Joona Haatanen doing some 4 gear testing. Sigh... and the rest of us just get to twiddle our thumbs lol.

That is one sexy beast... 4-5 more weeks for us
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:44 PM   #701
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What surface was he running on?
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:58 PM   #702
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That is one sexy beast... 4-5 more weeks for us
Excited for u preorder guys!
Can't wait to see more picks and actual club racing feedback on performance, durability etc!
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:57 AM   #703
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I looked through the parts compatibility list. and it looks like the bones will work from a b5m in the B6. Just wanted to make sure that if I held onto my mip pucks/ball diff that I could use it in the b6? Thanks. Will the bones work only or will the whole assembled axle work?
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Old 06-08-2016, 07:02 AM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
Joona Haatanen doing some 4 gear testing. Sigh... and the rest of us just get to twiddle our thumbs lol.


4 gear testing already? self-made or authentic AE test?
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Old 06-08-2016, 07:23 AM   #705
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AE stated from day one it would be offered as an option. Joona was testing with it on what I'd assume to be a low grip track.

part no.'s
91707- 4 gear case
91714- 4 gear motor plate
91717- 26t idler gear
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