649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
04-03-2017, 12:54 PM
#6286
Frustrating night at the track for the B6. First Qualifying lost steering a couple minutes in. Turns out the stock plastic servo horn broke. Put on metal servo horn and ran the 2nd qualifying. Buggy was all over the place, and had way to much steering and came just short of making the A-main. Adjusted steering end points (85%) and adjusted camber/toe and finished first in B main to bump up to A main. 1st lap around in A main (was already up to second) and the ball cup popped off the servo horn. WTF.
Never had any trouble with the steering until today. I replaced the stock bellcrank and steering arms with the Jconcepts aluminum ones. I had to remove a hair of the top plate so it wouldn't rub (with dremel) . Also added the Schelle +1 akerman insert and MIP Gear Roller Pucks from the week before. Was it just bad luck or because the steering is much more rigid. (aluminum vs stock plastic)
Suggestions?
Never had any trouble with the steering until today. I replaced the stock bellcrank and steering arms with the Jconcepts aluminum ones. I had to remove a hair of the top plate so it wouldn't rub (with dremel) . Also added the Schelle +1 akerman insert and MIP Gear Roller Pucks from the week before. Was it just bad luck or because the steering is much more rigid. (aluminum vs stock plastic)
Suggestions?
Everyone accepts that you need to run the aluminum servo arm for durability.
If you put the aluminum bell-cranks and rack on then you shifted all the load to the plastic servo arm.
Most guys are running a mix of plastic arms and aluminum rack or something but honestly the plastic parts are hard to beat.
But team guys want the bling even if you tell them they are faster with plastic.
Just my 2 cents
04-03-2017, 12:59 PM
#6287
From testing with the Team guys any time you add an aluminum steering component you take away some of the forgive-ness of the steering feel. Meaning aluminum is more direct and can make the car twitchy feeling.
Everyone accepts that you need to run the aluminum servo arm for durability.
If you put the aluminum bell-cranks and rack on then you shifted all the load to the plastic servo arm.
Most guys are running a mix of plastic arms and aluminum rack or something but honestly the plastic parts are hard to beat.
But team guys want the bling even if you tell them they are faster with plastic.
Just my 2 cents
Everyone accepts that you need to run the aluminum servo arm for durability.
If you put the aluminum bell-cranks and rack on then you shifted all the load to the plastic servo arm.
Most guys are running a mix of plastic arms and aluminum rack or something but honestly the plastic parts are hard to beat.
But team guys want the bling even if you tell them they are faster with plastic.
Just my 2 cents
04-03-2017, 12:59 PM
#6288
I just ordered some Schumacher staggers (fronts) and Mini Dart (rears) for my B6 and XB4. I can't find the Blue (hard) compound darts and I am concerned the yellows wear too fast. Is there any other rear tire that I can run with the Schumacher fronts that will work good? I wasn't sure if maybe the proline pin points would work. I remember someone telling me before not to mix them but that may have been regarding the proline front wedges with the Schumacher mini pin rears. But anyways. Any advice on this topic?
04-03-2017, 01:02 PM
#6289
I just ordered some Schumacher staggers (fronts) and Mini Dart (rears) for my B6 and XB4. I can't find the Blue (hard) compound darts and I am concerned the yellows wear too fast. Is there any other rear tire that I can run with the Schumacher fronts that will work good? I wasn't sure if maybe the proline pin points would work. I remember someone telling me before not to mix them but that may have been regarding the proline front wedges with the Schumacher mini pin rears. But anyways. Any advice on this topic?
04-03-2017, 01:26 PM
#6290
But my setup is different than his and not being a setup guy or the time to tune, I am looking forward to compare some notes on what he used to see what the differences are and then cross reference that to what the difference would look like on in general (ex- shock position moved in more than mine on tower means X would be seen, etc).
But the big thing that stood out was how smooth the vehicle would change direction. Mine would kind of half fight you at times, like too much grip, then none, then too much.
But with it going now to outdoor times on black dirt, will be interesting to seee what works there.
04-03-2017, 02:11 PM
#6291
Ya I think the pin downs are designed specifically for turf right? I'm running on carpet so not sure how those will work.
04-03-2017, 04:20 PM
#6292
Can people talk to me about using the FT VTS Slipper vs. the normal slipper package?
I run mod buggy (7.5). Just curious if anyone uses these clutch type slippers? What's the benefit? Anyone running them? Noticeable differences vs. the OE slipper?
I run mod buggy (7.5). Just curious if anyone uses these clutch type slippers? What's the benefit? Anyone running them? Noticeable differences vs. the OE slipper?
04-03-2017, 08:39 PM
#6293
I was planning on running the mini darts with stagger fronts but since I can't find them in blue compound I'm thinking of just getting the mini pin 1 in blue. Does the blue compound last a noticeable amount longer than the yellow? Or is it not that much of a difference really? I really wanted to try the darts but I'll stick with the pins if it gets me a lot more runs with the harder compound.
04-03-2017, 10:31 PM
#6294
Tech Regular
i tried the pindowns on carpet and they were similar to blue minipin2's...but a LOT heavier. the pindowns are about 11-12 grams heavier than minpins per tire...im going back to the shueys or maybe try the jconcepts version of the minidart.
04-04-2017, 04:23 AM
#6295
The extra surface area was needed for the SC10 4x4 and they became popular on lighter vehicles as well for a while. They can offer longer times between refreshing the pads and can be more consistent in certain circumstances, but the extra rotating mass never seemed worth it to me. Maybe on a mod SCT, but for 2wd buggies the regular 2 pad slipper is great.
04-04-2017, 07:09 AM
#6296
Tech Regular
In May ill be back to racing my B6D.
When i race it i race stock slash also. As my 2 main highside classes.
When i get my HPI Blitz roller then ill have an open wheel modified to use also.
When i race it i race stock slash also. As my 2 main highside classes.
When i get my HPI Blitz roller then ill have an open wheel modified to use also.
04-04-2017, 07:13 AM
#6297
04-04-2017, 07:19 AM
#6298
Tech Regular
my setup wouldnt work for you guys.
but i will say one thing its better to drive it with a square pack or shorty.
but i will say one thing its better to drive it with a square pack or shorty.
04-04-2017, 07:28 AM
#6299
What is the internal gear ratio on the B6 so I can figure FDR and figure out what pinion I need for 17.5.
