BOOM!!!

Everything's clear when you know the answer...

For those using jconcepts pindowns. On carpet.are you using the jconcepts insert that comes with them or something like an aka red insert? The aka insert is widely used at our track on the shumacher minipins

B6d 4 gear stand up
 

Guys do you know where I can find the instructions to build the 4 gear stand up box.

Cheers Mark

Use the SC5M manual!

Thanks mate will check it out.

I use the stock open cell foams. I feel that the closed cell are harder and dont allow the carcass of the tire to flex as much thereby putting more stress on the pins which will wear faster.

4 gear stand up
 

Just built the 4 gear stand up. Does it matter what side the ball diff hex bolt head faces?
In the manual for the standard 3 gear it mentions to have the ball diff hex bolt head same side as spur gear. In the sc5m manual which has the 4 gear it mentions the opposite. Ie ball hex bolt head opposite side to spur gear.

Thanks
Mark

Does anyone have the part numbers and/or information on using a turnbuckle, rod ends and insert in lieu of the waterfall brace?

Thank you in advance!

I just bought this kit (B6D), is any pinion included with the kit or do I have to buy it???

No pinion included, you have to buy one

THis was answered over about 5 pages of internet engineers...

I ALWAYS put the head on the side that has the slipper nut so I remember which side it's on... :)

Find pics and FAB it! :)


No pinion or wheels /tires.. :)

Check the FAQ :)

Thanks for the responses everyone. I guess our area is a little different and go through a bit more of those items. I have a feeling its more track challenge related than anything. :tire:

Obviously I've tried that with some of the extra parts I have but apparently I don't have the right rod ends and inserts laying around.

I figured since many others did it that they could assist.

My current track is dirt hard packed high bite, medium traction, should I just build the car with the lay-down transmission from the get go? is it that better?

What are others using? Base it off that...start where you will feel most comfortable. Nobody here can tell you how to build it.

If you don't have the lay down yet.. build it as is... order the lay down and switch it out and see which one works better for you. Worse case you're out $25 but you'll know for sure that you chose the best setup for how you drive.

I started with the 3 gear stand up and then as I became more comfortable, I switched out to the lay-down then eventually tried the shocks in front. I have a complete stand-up and lay-down that I can swap back and forth if needed.

which one you like better, is the difference in handling very noticeable?
thanks

Honestly it depends on traction level. low-med...standup & medium to high...lay-down. To judge on purely how both transmissions handle...lay-down all day long. You can carry more corner speed, jumps flatter and just transitions side to side much better. I run the lay-down with the 24g weight.

No it does not matter just pick the side you prefer it on.

here we go :tire:

No we are not going there. If you want to see which side the diff goes in....use the search feature. Any future posts will be deleted.

Any thoughts on set-up for a medium sized clay track with low-medium grip that has long straights, multiple 180s and big jumps. Not very technical. Running stock with 69/31 gearing and laydown transmission with rear shocks to the front of the tower.

After reading about suspension geometry, I was thinking of moving the top shock position to the outer positions and going 30 degrees on the kickup.
I've already changed to shock oil to 32.5 front/30 rear. Gray springs front/ Green Yokomo rear. What do you think?

Should I add back my waterfall brace?

Thanks guys!

What is the car having a problem doing? Hard to give tips if we don't know what the car needs help with

What is the downside to running the b5m kashima rear shock without a longer shock tower? Is buying the longer tower a must or can I do something with upstop/downstop shims.? Thx couldnt find he rationale

I've had my B6D since the release and the only things I have broken is one front tower and a plastic servo horn running the aluminum rack.

0 of all them, I have broke 3 steering blocks. Run on high bite carpet Offroad track

I've owned the buggy since they out. I race it weekly. I have not broken anything besides the plastic servo horn That's with a aluminum steering rack.

I'm still on quite a learning curve. My question was posed mostly to see if there are general modifications people tend to change under specific conditions.

I.e. technical track with small jumps VS open layout with big jumps

So I've managed to break 2 front shock towers so far, with about 20 packs through the car at our local carpet track. (drprc.com)

I've seen pics on B6 nation of broken shock towers as well as others at the tracks. They seem to break at the hole closest to the center of the shock tower. This makes sense as its the obvious stress riser. The failures on mine where the result of an impact to the front of the vehicle, and not from a load in which the tower was/is designed to carry.

That said, if you're not using the upper/outer most shock mounting hole, consider deleting that part of the tower via sanding/grinding/dremmeling it off. This reduces the "lever" acting on the area of tower's arm that's prone to breaking.

There will be those that may not agree with this line of thinking and that's fine. But it's either this or fabricate an aluminum tower for me.

I lack the post count to add pictures. So here is the link.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1464...2369150323808/

We race outdoors on a rough hard track and I haven't broken anything on my B6 or B6D yet. However, I let a friend run my B6D on its second race day and he turned it over and supposedly broke a rear tower....it was returned to me fixed. I think the towers are the only weak point. When AE was at our track testing tires their team manager said that its only the towers that get cut from the ends of the CF sheets that seem to be more brittle and AE is addressing it. Honestly, I liked the plastic towers on the B5M better. I'm still not 100% comfortable with the B6 & B6D but neither of them has slowed me down. I don't know the cars that well yet and have a harder time making adjustments. I knew exactly what to do on the B5M but not so much on the new cars.

2 B6's running @ Beachline

Front Tower: 2
Rear Tower: 1
Chassis: 1 (don't ask)
Plastic front bulkhead: 2

Regards,
Doug

Thanks Guys. I think we can stop now before Matt has steam coming out of his ears. :D

But what side was the ball diff hex on when these breakages occurred?

:lol:

Hahaha that just made my day!

the hex adds extra weight to that one side therefore puts additional stress on the tower of that side. Best thing to do is put a 10g weight opposite of the diff screw head to balance and spread the load equally across the tower.

I just bought a B6D today and have a question about an aftermarket part. Does the Exotek Direct Spur mount make that big of a difference as opposed to what is in the Team Kit?

Thanks,

Kevin

It gets rid of the slipper and should only really be used in 17.5 classes when racing on tracks with med-high traction.

Great, thanks Matt!!