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Old 12-01-2002, 04:01 AM   #16
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Had the packs been resting for a while? that looks like the kind of results you would get.

Don't go 100% on numbers - how the pack works in the car is also very important.

14mV is too low a threshold for HV's - 70 is about right.
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Old 12-01-2002, 08:28 AM   #17
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Oh, its 14mV per cell, sry

i e-mailed the integy guy where i bought my batteries and he said to charge at 5amps and 14mV threshold per cell.

The packs had been sitting for just two days, but discharged to 5.4V.

When the packs charge above 2000 mah they do feel good in the car, under that they just don't feel right. The one pack that actually charged to 2850mah was really good when i drove it.

do u think if i just keep charging them and running them they will eventually get better?

thanks
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Old 12-01-2002, 10:46 AM   #18
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Default 3000HV problems too

I recently bought some Integy; matched, Sanyo 3000HV's and have been having problems with them also. Charging they look fine, but when I run them in the Car, they are just so flat compared to my 2400 NiCd's.
Try using the NiCd setting on your charger if it allows it. The NiCd settings usually will provide a higher threshold to avoid the false peaking.
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Old 12-01-2002, 11:04 AM   #19
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When you charge a pack that's been resting for a while, even 1 day, you'll get unexpected charging figures, that's because the NiMH's shed quite a lot of voltage and capacity when they are left to rest.

If both packs FEEL good, sometimes, that's a good sign - you just need to make sure they're coming off the charger warm (i.e non false-peaked)

Normally a few clean cycles (i.e. full charge, full constant discharge(not in the car)), will "wake up" a pack, and get rid of some of the false peaks.

If there's less than two weeks between meetings, I store the NiMH packs discharged to 5.4v - this makes the strange charge values appear less frequently.
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Old 12-01-2002, 09:39 PM   #20
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Try This:
First discharge your pack. Then let it sit for about a half hour or till it reurns to room temp. Then charge the pack. If you have a long lock out use it. Watch the pack closely for temperature. When it has peaked, run it in the car for the same time as you race. (4 or 5 minutes) then let it cool to room temp. Discharge it at least 25 amps preferable 30amps to 5.4. Let it sit again and cool to room temp. Now charge it at 6 amps for 5 minutes. Now leave it till next usage. (at least over night) When you are ready to start again, Discharge pack at 30 amps to 5.4 and then charge it at 6 amps till peak. Do this several times and it should straighten out.

I use one pack to race all night. Charge--Practice--Recharge--Run 1st heat--Recharge--Run second heat--Recharge--Run Main. All at 6 amps and very little time in between. When I get home I discharge at 30 amps and then charge at 6 amps for 5 minutes. I have not had any trouble with the 3000HV at all.

Rick
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Old 02-16-2003, 09:41 AM   #21
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Default BATTERY PROBLEMS

B3BOY,
IF YOU R NOT HAVING TROUBLE WITH RUN TIME AND YOU NEED MORE VOLTAGE PUT THEBATTERY PACK ON A SET OF LIGHTS(1157)BULBS FOR AN AUTOMOBILE SOLDERED IN SERIES(SAME AS THE DEANS DUMPSTER)ALONG WITH A MULTIMETER UNTIL THEY GET DOWN TO 5.4 AMPS AND THEN LEAVE THEM TO COOL...THEN DO IT AGAIN AND LEAVE THEM ALONE TILL YOU R READY TO GO RACING....I WAIT 3 NDAYS BETWEEN CYCLING THIS WAY AND CHARGING FOR RACING.CHARGE @6 AMPS AT A .03 CUTOFF AND KEEP THE TEMP BELOW 105 DEGREES FAIRENHIEDT.YOU CAN GET A TEMP GUAGE AT WALMART FOR AROUND TEN BUCKS WHICH HAS A DUAL TEMP ON IT(DIGITAL)SO YOU CAN PUT THE "SENSOR"OF THE GUAGE ON YOUR PACK.WHEN IT REACHES 105 DEGREES THEN SHUT THE CHARGE OFF.
I HOPE THIS HELPS.ALSO ON 3300 PACKS DO THIS.

BIG D
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