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Old 12-22-2005, 08:38 AM   #61
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Do you know how much the X5 conversion is and where I can get it?
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:39 AM   #62
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Cool, i just got my XX-4 last night and have already started the build. I couldn't wait until x-mas. Should be a great car for the winter mid-west next month!
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:42 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Do you know how much the X5 conversion is and where I can get it?
I just raced with the makers last sunday and he said they are ready to go. I belive they are around $500.00 for the kit but look well worth it. if ya have a xx ($260 I think) or xxx ($340) the have conversions as well. Goto www.4wdrc.com and you will find them there!
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:49 AM   #64
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I think the XX-4 Conversion is only $229 I think.

I got to see one of these conversions run this summer, was pretty nice.
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Old 12-22-2005, 08:53 AM   #65
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I just found them. Looks nice. I'll run XX4 for now and see how I like it. If I'm at a disadvantage in the acceleration department, I'll look into it.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:07 AM   #66
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X5 Conversion-Guys while this car is a lil easier to work on PLEASE understand that with 3 belts and a PULLEY system it's not as UNEFFICIENT as you may think.

I have driven XX-4's for sometime and it's a GREAT car.If you dont do the TOP TUNNEL mod to make it easier to work on I will admit it's a pain.
It's not like you have to work on it every weekend if you built it right,set the diffs right and also the slipper.

I have went 8-12 weekends of racing without messing with Diffs,spur gear or slipper once its set right.Take the time to do it right and you wont have any issue's.
I will also try to get a pic of WHERE to cut the tunnel.

The X5 is a lil more efficient but I dont see the price jump being justified.

I raced both cars on the same track and my lap times werent really any faster with the X5 conversion.If it was it was like .1-.2 IF THAT.

Neat idea and sure it's easier to work on.For that point itself people may pay for the conversion.

The XX-4WE out of the box is a great car.Do the top tunnel mod to cut it in half so it's easier to work on and your set.

For Newbies:What I mean by making it easier to work on is this.If you blow a diff,mess up a spur or something in the rear of the XX-4 you literally have to remove all the screws from the top tunnel(Like 14-18 screws if I remeber),Both shock towers(More Screws) just to get to the drivetrain.
We cut the tunnel in half.Either by the servo mounts or in the lil part next to the motor.Kinda inbetween the Motor and the Servo.
I will try to post pics in a day or 2.
If someone else can thats fine to.

Les
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:14 AM   #67
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Just a dumb question, but the top tunnel cover I just put on there was a piece covering the prear pulley up to the main spur and then a second peice for the belt from the front pulley back to where that belt terminates. Did losi already mod this problem or is there another cut you guys make?
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:16 AM   #68
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Brian-There is actually 2 piece's.
1 goes from the front tower the spur area.
Then the 2nd one goes from where that one leaves off all the way to the back.
It covers the Spur area all the way back to the REAR shock tower.
That is the piece we cut because the difference is this(Had to go get my XX-4)

If you DONT cut the tunnel you have to do the following to get to the spur or middle belt.
Remove the Motor,Remove the Servo,and remove the rear shock tower and a total of about 10 screws plus the screws the remove the Servo and Motor(4-6 more).
If you cut the tunnel then your looking at leaving the Rear Tower ON,the Servo In(Depending on where you cut it) and leaving about 8-12 screws to replace the spur or middle belt.
If you cut the tunnel it also leave the motor in and about 6-8 screws if you blow a rear diff or rear belt.

Jon-On your XX-4 does it have the Shock Towers with the X's in them?
If not that was a weak point on the car.
The belts usually last a long time.Maybe just dried out.
I actually soak my belts in WD40 and a Gladlock bag(Learned this from the Schumacher Days).

The X5 conversion doesnt have alot of the parts so you would have to get the conversion and then add towers and such.

If anyone has questions post them.
Les
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:16 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexRacer
X5 Conversion-Guys while this car is a lil easier to work on PLEASE understand that with 3 belts and a PULLEY system it's not as UNEFFICIENT as you may think.

I have driven XX-4's for sometime and it's a GREAT car.If you dont do the TOP TUNNEL mod to make it easier to work on I will admit it's a pain.
It's not like you have to work on it every weekend if you built it right,set the diffs right and also the slipper.

I have went 8-12 weekends of racing without messing with Diffs,spur gear or slipper once its set right.Take the time to do it right and you wont have any issue's.
I will also try to get a pic of WHERE to cut the tunnel.

The X5 is a lil more efficient but I dont see the price jump being justified.

I raced both cars on the same track and my lap times werent really any faster with the X5 conversion.If it was it was like .1-.2 IF THAT.

Neat idea and sure it's easier to work on.For that point itself people may pay for the conversion.

The XX-4WE out of the box is a great car.Do the top tunnel mod to cut it in half so it's easier to work on and your set.

For Newbies:What I mean by making it easier to work on is this.If you blow a diff,mess up a spur or something in the rear of the XX-4 you literally have to remove all the screws from the top tunnel(Like 14-18 screws if I remeber),Both shock towers(More Screws) just to get to the drivetrain.
We cut the tunnel in half.Either by the servo mounts or in the lil part next to the motor.Kinda inbetween the Motor and the Servo.
I will try to post pics in a day or 2.
If someone else can thats fine to.

Les
That's pretty much what I was thinking. Even though the car I was running wasn't the worlds, it accelerated just as hard as the XXX4 I ran a couple years ago and it handled better right off the bat, with less than 10 laps for me with it. The brand new car should be great and with fresh belts that aren't 6 years old and skipping like crazy before they snap, It should be a rocket. I was trying to think where the best place to cut the top deck is. I think it'd be best to cut it just behind the servo. That way if you need to get to the rear diff, you don't need to remove the servo too.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:18 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexRacer
Jon-On your XX-4 does it have the Shock Towers with the X's in them?
If not that was a weak point on the car.
The belts usually last a long time.Maybe just dried out.
I actually soak my belts in WD40 and a Gladlock bag(Learned this from the Schumacher Days).

The X5 conversion doesnt have alot of the parts so you would have to get the conversion and then add towers and such.

If anyone has questions post them.
Les
Yeah, the old one has the X's in them. The new kit should have them too, right? I haven't had a chance to break it open yet.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:26 AM   #71
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Well the XX-4 Regular,XX-4 Graphite and Even some of the XX-4We's(I THINk) from back then had shock towers that were OPEN in the middle and were brittle at times.
So if you break one on your NEW XX-4WE kit and the shop has OLD stock they may have the old one's WITHOUT X's in them.So watch for this.

I will take a pic real quick of where we cut the tunnel's.
Les
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:32 AM   #72
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Here ya go guys.Not the best doings but I was in a hurry.
Use a fine band saw from a hobby store or something.
Wheel on a Dremel will be too wide and will alot dirt and such in the gap.
The GAP will be too wide unless you use something FINE.

I use black tape to cover the area up.

#1 is between the Motor and Servo like I was saying.This one is cut at an angle and is easier to do Spur Wise.

#2 is UNDER the servo inbetween the screws.We used Team Associated Servo Mount Spacers to hold the gap together instead of using the Servo case to do so.
Les
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Reviving 4 wheel drive!-xx-4.jpg  
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:39 AM   #73
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Why do you cut between the servo mount holes instead of behind it? Seems like if you just cut behind it, you don't have to worry about keeping it spaced right and you don't have to touch the servo to get to the rear diff.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:42 AM   #74
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Here's a pic of how I cut mine.It's on my Street Weapon but they are the same in that area.I cut right thru the access hole on a diagonal to keep the cut away from the screws.I put a peice of electrical tape on to seal it back up.Getting to the rear diff is pretty easy.Take out the four screws that go into the rear pivots/shock tower and the rear suspension comes off in one peice.The easy way to get the rear top cover off is to take the screws off the servo at the outer mount and the screw in the front steering arm,leaving the servo with tie rod attached to the top cover.Getting into the front still requires taking the front and mid top covers off,but not the rear.It's really not so bad after you've done it once.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:57 AM   #75
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Is there an actual XX4 thread on here? I looked and there's a few that are "question about XX4" and things like that, but no actual thread dedicated to it. If Not I'll have to start one
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