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Old 12-12-2005, 06:38 AM   #16
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This is great to see. Yesterday we had 11 4wheelers show up! Not bad for there being a big race out of town as well! Was the biggest class except for the club let the minis run for free so about 15 of those showed! I'm guessing we acutally have about 15 or 16 locally now! Another thing that had got alot of guys excited about 4wheelers is promoting the newer brushless systems w/ them. Seems alot of people enjoy that combo, I was happpy w/ my 12 double!
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:40 AM   #17
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This thread is off to a great start! Just goes to show that there are people interested in the class and are want to see it grow.

Impactplayr; I've always liked the idea of a spec class be for on-road or off. Another thought is to open up the car choice and limit motor/battery selection??

Hey wheelnut the parts issue will haunt any new car for a time before production/supply get caught up. Seems like companies push the product then support it. I have the MRC Pro and have had some commonly needed parts backordered. The supplier (Altech in NJ) is working hard to get that issue taken care of.

Kevin Boyle, I assume you have a buggy class at your local track? I'd suggest running with the mod buggies. Then have a separate class as interest grows.
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:28 PM   #18
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Hey guys,

Good to see a thread like this.

4wd looks to be making a comeback slowly but better than none at all. With all the vehicles that are in the pipe and a non-defacto losi win at the worlds, this probably has opened up some eyes to 4wd.

I do believe that one thing that would really help would be a spec class albeit I think 19 turn would be the best. This gives more power than a stocker so you don't get a snooze fest and combined with 4wd its quite a blast to drive. On alot of tracks, you probably would go faster with a 19 turn then the all out mods as there is only so much power you can put down.

This also keeps the class open to newbies who want to be competitive but still are learning the ropes. If you have a consensus of guys in 4wd willing to try 19T spec as the class default, its worth a shot.


For those Academy guys, we should be seeing the new V2 with some more revisions (call it V2.1 ) in the USA in middle First Quarter 2006 and the sedan version shortly after.
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:43 PM   #19
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4x4 cars are showing up here. We run every Tuesday at a local track and will allways have a full heat of cars.
Alot of XXX4s and now a couple of Kyoshos are starting to show up.
We run open electric.
Should have just over 12 cars by the beginning of the year.

Mine is a XXX4, GTB with a 5800 (like a 12T) and it flat out smokes.
Alot of guys here run Lipos and can run over 30 minutes.
We run 10 minute mains! What a blast.
Most fun I have had in years and I have driven it all.

Expensive?? Your kidding. Right? Not at all. I can run much deeper into a set of tires than on a two wheeler. Parts? Same. Breakage??? It is different. You should drive them softer on the jumps and harder on the corners. Simple.

Keep up the good promo stuff.
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Old 12-12-2005, 02:50 PM   #20
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Cain I would agree with you on the 19 turn motor. I ran a Reedy in my Academy this year and on our small track it was a blast!! On a bigger indoor track I got ran away from by some much lower turn motors. When we first started talking about getting the class going at our track running a 19 turn limit was discussed to keep things even.

I've seen some pictures of the SB V2 and noted the front arms are different and the lower shock mounting is different. Hopefully they got the front hinge pin brace sorted out also. What I would really like to see changed is the screw in king pin. Mine kept backing out. I like the fact that this buggy takes a bunch of the same pieces as the Velox gas buggy; big bearings and durable!!
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Old 12-12-2005, 02:56 PM   #21
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have you visited www.rc10b4.com and the SB Thread? Great info there and there is another thread with pics and review of the V2.

There are issues right now with the V2, hopefully we can get them resolved.

The King Pin issue does suck, What I did was thread alittle bit of cotton into the hole when I would screw it in and they didn't back out after that. You can also dab alittle shoegoo on the threads too.

As for the hingepin mount, I honestly didn't have much breakage there, probably broke it twice in all my running on full spead hits, but the arms didn't break. Probably a trade off, arms or the mounts. Have you tried the aluminum ones?
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:33 PM   #22
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Not much electric offroad in my area. It's either nitro 1/8th scale or go home.
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:01 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain
have you visited www.rc10b4.com and the SB Thread? Great info there and there is another thread with pics and review of the V2.

There are issues right now with the V2, hopefully we can get them resolved.

The King Pin issue does suck, What I did was thread alittle bit of cotton into the hole when I would screw it in and they didn't back out after that. You can also dab alittle shoegoo on the threads too.

As for the hingepin mount, I honestly didn't have much breakage there, probably broke it twice in all my running on full spead hits, but the arms didn't break. Probably a trade off, arms or the mounts. Have you tried the aluminum ones?
Mornin!

Cain thanks for the tip on rc10b4. I'm now a member on that sight too

I did use the shoe goo thing at my last race but the threads in the knuckle were too wasted to help much. I really think that is one area that could be improved.

I'm assuming your refering to the aluminum front hinge pin mount. I have not used it primarily because it was a $39 part. I think that's a bit steep but I may end up biting the bullet. I'm also looking into using the front mounts that HPI uses on the Pro 4. I'll post back if it's a go. I have only broken 2 front arms and both in the same spot. I think I found the reason; there were Losi shocks that were on the buggy when I got it. The ball in the lower shock mount is incredibly tight going into the control arm and may be putting additional stress at that point. I may switch to a different lower shock mount or since the Losi shock works well, it may be time to pay a visit to Dr. Dremel and modify the ball a little
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:10 AM   #24
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[QUOTE=DFroyd]This thread is off to a great start! Just goes to show that there are people interested in the class and are want to see it grow.

Impactplayr; I've always liked the idea of a spec class be for on-road or off. Another thought is to open up the car choice and limit motor/battery selection?? [QUOTE]

The reason I suggested the Tamiya buggies, is because they are cost efficient. Where almost all the other buggies cost $300+ these buggies only requires coin to the tune of $110..... Also it keeps the competition more fair because everybody runs the same chassis, so it doesn't become a chassis war.... which keeps costs down... Trust me it's a well proven recipe for success with a spec class!!!
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:36 AM   #25
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I would agree it would be nice to limit the chassis to make a true spec class but with 4wd so dead right now, letting the chassis be open probably would be better.

With limiting the motor, that at least is a cheap thing to do if you already have motors compared to if you already have a chassis.
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:37 AM   #26
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If you want an rtr then look at the academy buggies, they will smoke a tamiya and set you back less then $250 for an rtr buggy. The only way to make spec class happen is to run bls with rpm/acel curve limitations. Running stock or 19 turn is just going to make good batteries win more. It's not like 2wd where $20 packs and a 14 turn mod can spin the tires all the way down the straight if you don't ease on the throtle. a well setup 4wd buggy can flat out lay down the power and go from 0-30 in no time at all. If you want to get 4wd started up I think your best source is to give the locals who run electric touring a way to get out and use those packs and ect. during the summer.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:08 AM   #27
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The Academy buggy for the money with a few modifications can be a good performer for the price. I had one of the first ones in the USA back when there was no pro kit and was quite happy with it once I put some mods on. If someone needs the info on the common mods, feel free to email me.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:14 AM   #28
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Impactplayr, awesome signature!! Hey I'm all over the cost efficiency thing Especially for guys just getting into this addiction. I'm sure you've seen the look on people who have asked how much you have in a certain car or how much it would be to get started in rc; their eyes get the size of dinner plates A cost effective class option not only would level the field but would let new racers have more fun racing.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:17 AM   #29
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Simply put, 4wd is not the way for people worried about cost. When these racers become the fast guys in that novice spec class they are going to want to race mod. However they are not going to be able to afford to drop the money needed to buy great packs and hot mods. In 2wd you don't need as hot a mod thus older, out of date packs will get you around the track plenty fast.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:17 AM   #30
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I remember getting some amazed looks when I told them how much the Academy SB Sport was when I first started running it. For how well it ran when I had the setup right, they were pretty impressed especially price wise compared to the rest.

I think seriously if you have the numbers, see about doing a 19T class as the default 4wd class and go from there . heck, do a test, have someone run what they would normally do for mod, then put in a 19turn and compare there lap times. Don't be suprised if they are close or even better with the 19 turn, especially if the track doesn't have alot of long straights.
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