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~|| TLR 22SCT 2.0 || ~ || Stock | 17.5T | BLINKY || ~ || Upgrades & Builds ||~ >

~|| TLR 22SCT 2.0 || ~ || Stock | 17.5T | BLINKY || ~ || Upgrades & Builds ||~

~|| TLR 22SCT 2.0 || ~ || Stock | 17.5T | BLINKY || ~ || Upgrades & Builds ||~

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Old 02-06-2016, 12:11 AM
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Default ~|| TLR 22SCT 2.0 || ~ || Stock | 17.5T | BLINKY || ~ || Upgrades & Builds ||~

I. Background

After many searches for a cohesive 17.5T stock racing guide/build/upgrade thread, I decided to start one here. I am new to the hobby and purchased a TLR 22SCT 2.0 for stock racing (for now), a Losi XXX-SCT (with SCB chassis and upgrades) for bashing, and would like to buy a TLR 22 3.0 next.

However, I would like to discuss the best upgrades for stock racing with the 22SCT 2.0 on all surfaces, with my main surface being typical indoor tracks with medium + bite clay. Please list what upgrades you chose, why you chose then, how they are performing, and where to get them if possible. Feel free to post pictures, ask questions, and give any opinions or advice. I would actually prefer if anyone could give me advice with optimizing my current build, and what upgrades to do next. I need all the help I can get being new to the hobby. Thank you!

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II. Goal

1. Make the best stock class TLR 22SCT 2.0 possible
2. Weight reduction, without sacrifice to durability
3. Efficient power
4. Clean looks
5. Engaging, fluid, and responsive feel

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III. Build


A. Platform: TLR 22SCT 2.0 race kit


B. Electronics:
1. Radio:
- KO Propo EX-2
- KO Propo KR241FH receiver, upgrading to KR413FH

2. Servo:
- KO PROPO BSx2 response low-pro servo

3. Motor & Controller:
- Tekin RS Gen 2 ESC
- Trinity D4 17.5T motor

4. Batteries:
- Trinity RevTech 5000mah Lipo shorty
- Trinity 7700mah White Carbon (HC)

C. Handling
1. Chassis:
- TLR anti roll bar kit F&R (setup help?)
- TLR alum front pivot block
- Exotek alum front camber block (yellow)
- Lunsford Racing Super Duty titanium turnbuckles
- TLR alum rear hub carrier

2. Suspension:
- TLR 32.5 oil
- TLR X-Ring shock kit
- Exotek alum shock perch & ring (yellow)

3. Steering:
- Exotek alum steering rack v2 (yellow)
- Exotek alum servo mount (yellow)

D. Driveline
1. Transmission
- TLR stock

2. Differential -> Output:
- MIP 17.5 Pucks System with; Super Diff kit, alum outdrives, alum C-CVD's w/ Pucks, steel axles
- TLR 51T diff gear
- TLR 12mm alum hex rear (kit)
- TLR 12mm alum +1.5mm hex front (buggy rear)
- JConcepts low profile wheel nuts

3. Slipper:
- Avid Triad slipper (Gearing, 76T 48P spur, 6T pinion

4. Wheels:
- Stock wheels (green)
- DE Racing Speedline Plus white wheels

5. Tires:
- Proline Holeshots (blue compound)
- JConcepts Barcodes (gold compound)

E. MISC Parts: weight, strength, protection, cosmetics, feel
- Exotek alum vented motor mount
- Exotek carbon fiber battery strap w/ yellow thumb screws
- RC Screw stainless screw kit
- AE foam ball cup dust covers
- ProTek chassis film

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IV. Future Plans

- MM setup (Casper/Dunsford mods, upgrades, setup)
- Lunsford titanium hardware
- AVID bearing kit (custom w/ ceramic)
- BFastRC diff rings, carbide diff balls, caged ceramic thrust bearing
- ASC7677 AE diff screw
- CF shock towers
- JConcepts CF body braces
- JConcepts HF2 body
- JConcepts Hazard wheels
- Anodized nuts
- Lunsford Super Duty ball cups


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Pics: These are a few weeks old, I've since done a lot of work/changes. Will update once a couple orders come in and I get to work.

PS: My fist solder job and build. Any feedback is welcome, along with potential future upgrades/setup options.


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MORE TO COME. THANKS FOR VIEWING!

Last edited by lyons238; 02-06-2016 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:29 AM
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Do you intend to stay rear motor or do you plan to go mid motor?
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TimmE View Post
Do you intend to stay rear motor or do you plan to go mid motor?
I'm not sure yet. I might try MM. Or if I come across a surge of carpet or very high bite tracks I'll most likely run it. But for now I'll run it in RM, I don't see a reason not too.
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:12 AM
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I'd pick up a shorty pack for weight reduction first thing
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:10 AM
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I've built my daughter one of these. She's novice, but the die hard racer in me gives her what she needs. Only thing I got on hers from stock is...nothing...except for 76t spur due to the 17.5 motor in blinky. This is a good SC kit the way it is out of the box. I've tuned it from there to be neutral for her using a shorty pack as well.

Now the pucks is a good idea to save weight, but won't do you any good if you can't get around the track without crashing.

I would not toucha a gear diff unless your on superhigh bite or carpet. The ball diff will work better and last a long time with 17.5.

If your goal is lightweight. You don't need any of this.
- Exotek alum shock perch & ring (yellow) (bling)
- Exotek alum steering rack v2 (yellow). Kit steering rack is fine.
- Exotek alum servo mount (yellow) (bling)
- Trinity 7700mah White Carbon (HC)

I wouldn't waste your money on this
- RC Screw stainless screw kit (will strip)
- AE foam ball cup dust covers (useless)
- JConcepts low profile wheel nuts (over priced)
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:25 AM
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I am doing the same type of build. I got my truck down to 2054g with the losi 1.0 sct body, this is rtr with a shorty orion battery. I can now add the weight in the spots I think it needs for my liking. I would do as much titanium as possible. The least bit of aluminum the better.

these are my recommendation
losi ti shock stand offs
losi ti turnbuckles
ti ball studs
mip puck system
schelle ti screws throughout the truck
lightest body
lightest battery
schelle bearings in car
schelle ceramic bearings in trans
schelle nova slipper

Last edited by Ruinms; 02-06-2016 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:35 AM
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You can make a truck too light in SC. I've actually added 21g to my daughters to aid in handling. Ever get accidentally bumped by another heavier truck...? Heavier SC will move yours. Large jumps outdoors will make your SC sail away. Driving clean is most important.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
You can make a truck too light in SC. I've actually added 21g to my daughters to aid in handling. Ever get accidentally bumped by another heavier truck...? Heavier SC will move yours. Large jumps outdoors will make your SC sail away. Driving clean is most important.
I could see this being a issue out doors, but I don't get outdoors much.
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
I've built my daughter one of these. She's novice, but the die hard racer in me gives her what she needs. Only thing I got on hers from stock is...nothing...except for 76t spur due to the 17.5 motor in blinky. This is a good SC kit the way it is out of the box. I've tuned it from there to be neutral for her using a shorty pack as well.

Now the pucks is a good idea to save weight, but won't do you any good if you can't get around the track without crashing.

I would not toucha a gear diff unless your on superhigh bite or carpet. The ball diff will work better and last a long time with 17.5.

If your goal is lightweight. You don't need any of this.
- Exotek alum shock perch & ring (yellow) (bling)
- Exotek alum steering rack v2 (yellow). Kit steering rack is fine.
- Exotek alum servo mount (yellow) (bling)
- Trinity 7700mah White Carbon (HC)

I wouldn't waste your money on this
- RC Screw stainless screw kit (will strip)
- AE foam ball cup dust covers (useless)
- JConcepts low profile wheel nuts (over priced)
I already have all these items, so money already "wasted", except I don't feel that way.

1. I have a Trinity RevTek 2s 5000mah shorty.

2. I wasn't happy with the stock plastic steering rack, it had some play in it and I also stripped one of the pieces out so I decided to get the Exotek one and I love it, it's incredibly smooth, predictable, accurate, and strong.

3. The alum servo mount gives me the diff mounting options I need for the Exotek rack as well as different servos.

4. The alum Exotek shock rings and perches are really just for the looks. The weight difference was small enough for the way it makes truck look.

5. The stainless RC Screwz seem to be fine, but I will soon be replacing them with titanium, at least most of them. I can't imagine these stripping with tightness needed for rc cars in plastic and aluminum. How would steel strip in plastic/alum??? Please explain.

6. The foams are like two dollars and they actually do keep my ball cups clean, which makes them last longer. I used them on my last.

7. The JC wheel nuts were the only low profile serated ones I could find.

Originally Posted by Ruinms View Post
I am doing the same type of build. I got my truck down to 2054g with the losi 1.0 sct body, this is rtr with a shorty orion battery. I can now add the weight in the spots I think it needs for my liking. I would do as much titanium as possible. The least bit of aluminum the better.

these are my recommendation
losi ti shock stand offs
losi ti turnbuckles
ti ball studs
mip puck system
schelle ti screws throughout the truck
lightest body
lightest battery
schelle bearings in car
schelle ceramic bearings in trans
schelle nova slipper
I have...
- Ti turnbuckles
- MIP pucks system
- avid slipper (same as nova)

Thanks for the other recommendations, those were in the plans. Do you think I should use all titanium screws or just ones in lower stress areas? Is it because titanium is hard it's more brital and likely to break than steel hardware? Where should ti hardware be used and where should it not be?
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:57 PM
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I agree with kwiksi. I race mine in the mod class but that class has gone away. I'm removing every upgrade that I've done. This truck is heavy as it is for stock. I'm also removing the rear bumper and the side bars, and anything else I can. If it's a bash fest where you race then maybe heavier is better.
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