Since the XE interest in updates on the 4.0 are falling like flies.

However here is the jist of my end of season updates, modifications and information on previous updates.

The “double diff seals” on the outdrive of the differentials proved to be beneficial and cause no binding issues, and keep the outdrive shaft and area free from build up increasing longevity and time between required rebuilds.

I have yet to rebuild differentials with shore 70A high temp silicone inner seals, however testing a diff in a jig proved the seals will work better than super soft which have no abrasion resistance. After 3 hours the 70a seals showed no signs of wear and no leaks.

Setup:
Rear end- has had the front of the inner suspension arm modified to accept a lightly pressed-in losa1701 bushing
Rear end- has had the pivot of the right suspension arm shaved to allow offset pin braces at 3 toe and 3 anti squat.
Team Trinity rear hubs have been modified to work with 3.5mm hinge pins for buggy rim clearance, I feel the buggy has a slight disadvantage as a truggy has more rim clearance.
Longer hardware where needed
Shortened hardware where needed (threaded shafts that stick out way beyond for no reason)
Rear offset braces installed, sway bar link balls reversed

Wish list:
the rear and front gear box cases counter bored/milled for larger bearings.
A nylon rear suspension arm inner pin brace

Racing this e4.0 For one more season, I mean why make all these updates...

I will continue to make mods, changes, and list them for the 4.0

Updated the input bearing on the rear gearbox to a use a 5x11x5 flanged F685-2RS abec3 The choice is your on wether or not to use contact seals or not. Reduces resonance by applying force over a wider area while maintaining intended rolling resistance without going to a larger bearing and vibration of couplings from face impact of the dog bones.

The reason; found on a rear gearbox change out that the inner bearing shoulder seat is showing signs of wear pushing into the case and to keep the bearing from wobbling and/or the out race spinning a slightly longer flanged input bearing was installed on the pinion. Make sure the both bearings are fully seated.

Next rear-end modification:


Adjustable rear suspension arms using the offset rearward brace and standard forward rear brace.


Modifications have been prepared and made though I am wondering what the rc enthusiasts input would be on durability. Using an approximate 70mm hinge pin “hard” rated 52100 alloy (69mm with the 70mm shaft face flush grounded) and two 1.5mm thick self lubricating nylon spacers. This update really will allow fast changing for tracks that offer sloping turns or tracks that offer shorter run times and tighter turns.


so now my 8ight e 4.0 has another mod slash update. Is it really a 4.0 at this point??

TLR342023 Lightweight rear ring gear
 

The TLR342023 lightweight rear ring gear is 100% 8ight-all compatible except truggy. Only needed minor re-shimming. This option complements the front overdrive nicely and finally rebalances the car. To bad that the center cv drives are discontinued they have less mass. Come to find the center universal is as well, finding ligtweight options are a pain in the donkey thou do realize that universals are still as light as CV’s to a point where a CV can be modded.

The X outdrives weigh more than the HD lightened outdrives but I suppose the HD ones are going to see the reality nerf bat soon as well.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...6b0fc4411.jpeg

Current setup top view.

8ight rear gear box update
 

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...e174b2de6.jpeg
Showing my many attempts to line up and size up the hole.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...89d3e5970.jpeg
Rear gear box update.

I'm struggling to find some Front and Rear replacement shock shafts in Australia.
Has anyone converted over to the newer shock internals?

I am assuming they are metric vs imperial.

Front Shock Shaft - TLR243007
Rear Shock Shaft - TLR243008

Well You came to the right place..!

I am here to help.. please refer to your post in the e3.0 thread.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b7d13178a.jpeg
New setup

Next race club season can’t come fast enough.

Rear diff removal
 

Hi guys. Haven't posted in a while. A few years back I bought and built a new 4.0-E buggy. No real issues until a few weeks ago when the rear diff failed. What I am wondering is if anyone has made a video (or series of photos) showing the simplest way to get the rear diff out so I can fix it. The manual was fine for building but not so great for taking things apart.

Is the 4.0e still a good option for racing?

While still being a good platform to race, parts have been become more and more scarce so as a viable racer then not exactly, if you have been in The hobby a while and got support from several versions through the years then continuing to race a 4.0 is possible. Things break. It is clear the newer XE 2.0 edges out the 4.0 in many ways.

Thou running my e4.0 and found several ways to cross the platforms, the pinnacle of the 4.0 has moved to as far as I can push it and have a 8ight e4.1x While I incorporated X suspension, hubs, drives and differentials.., the central drive line of the X is superior and have put mine up on the shelf and plan on investing into a new 8ight XE very soon.