1LikesNew Team Durango DEX210F Thread
02-20-2016, 04:46 PM
#61
I got her all up and ready for some practice tomorrow:
I added the following items:
- Durango alloy "buttons"
- Tresrey Carbon steering Link
- STRC Front shock tower
- Alloy shock screws to front shocks (waiting on set for rear)
- Quick change shock mount for rear (waiting on inner balls to do the same to front)
- exotek 12mm rear hexes
- B5 12mm front axles
Question: When you run large pinion gears, do you space them a bit "forward" than that lip for the screws?
Last edited by Cain; 02-22-2016 at 09:10 AM.
02-21-2016, 03:09 AM
#62
Tech Addict
Looks great cain,
I'm excided what you say about driving the F!?
I'm excided what you say about driving the F!?
In general I don't get that impression any more than other companies. The hole steering hubs thing though is odd, the fact tower was showing May as restock.
I got here all up and ready for some practice tomorrow:
I added the following items:
- Durango alloy "buttons"
- Tresrey Carbon steering Link
- STRC Front shock tower
- Alloy shock screws to front shocks (waiting on set for rear)
- Quick change shock mount for rear (waiting on inner balls to do the same to front)
- exotek 12mm rear hexes
- B5 12mm front axles
Question: When you run large pinion gears, do you space them a bit "forward" than that lip for the screws?
I got here all up and ready for some practice tomorrow:
I added the following items:
- Durango alloy "buttons"
- Tresrey Carbon steering Link
- STRC Front shock tower
- Alloy shock screws to front shocks (waiting on set for rear)
- Quick change shock mount for rear (waiting on inner balls to do the same to front)
- exotek 12mm rear hexes
- B5 12mm front axles
Question: When you run large pinion gears, do you space them a bit "forward" than that lip for the screws?
02-21-2016, 06:39 PM
#64
alright I got my first run in and all went well. I did pop a spur gear due to an issue I am still looking into with the motor, however, the car itself was great. Very durable and For stock racing I actually didn't find a need for a baby sized spur gear due to the gearing range.
The carpet setup is money with the MC compound "slicks" I ran. I could also see running this car with the current setup with a treaded tire.
I did try running without the sway bar and I felt that if you needed less rotation, it worked well and added some grip.
I also like how easy it is to remove the spur gear and change it.
All in all, very happy so far.
One tip I can give is that the motor mount allows you to remove the motor fairly easily, but it may not be intuitive on how the mount comes out. Basically once you disengage the screws that lock the mount, you will run the motor all the way to the edge, and then tilt the motor "up". the mount will then come out.
The carpet setup is money with the MC compound "slicks" I ran. I could also see running this car with the current setup with a treaded tire.
I did try running without the sway bar and I felt that if you needed less rotation, it worked well and added some grip.
I also like how easy it is to remove the spur gear and change it.
All in all, very happy so far.
One tip I can give is that the motor mount allows you to remove the motor fairly easily, but it may not be intuitive on how the mount comes out. Basically once you disengage the screws that lock the mount, you will run the motor all the way to the edge, and then tilt the motor "up". the mount will then come out.
02-22-2016, 08:44 AM
#65
Hey Guys! So my 210F made it to my house Friday night, the day before our first big race of the season. I pulled an all nighter and built this and my V5 car so I had them ready for the next morning.
I can honestly say that it was a good decision make this car ready for the race. It had amazing corner speed and seemed a bit more neutral compared to my V3 on the carpet. I used the same shock package as my V3 since I had ZERO tuning time before the races started. I wouldn't say it was perfect but it got me through the day with only a few changes. I'll share more on the first page in the next day or so. Everyone that looked over this car was very impressed with it and all the good looking parts it came with. Overall I'm super happy and can't wait to get her back on the track again!
I can honestly say that it was a good decision make this car ready for the race. It had amazing corner speed and seemed a bit more neutral compared to my V3 on the carpet. I used the same shock package as my V3 since I had ZERO tuning time before the races started. I wouldn't say it was perfect but it got me through the day with only a few changes. I'll share more on the first page in the next day or so. Everyone that looked over this car was very impressed with it and all the good looking parts it came with. Overall I'm super happy and can't wait to get her back on the track again!
02-22-2016, 09:13 AM
#66
Looking forward to some pics to see how you mounted up the electronics.
the way the car drove for me with the stock setup, I was pretty happy too here. Durango did a really good job on the setup out of the box. to be honest I can't really think of anything I would change right now, heck, the only thing I have diff is I run a carbon strc front tower and I put one shim under the ball stud. I may go with like the carpet setup and take it out.
For 17.5 gearing with my Viper Black edition motor, I was using a 75T spur gear with a 33T pinion on our track and it felt really good. Viper at about 40 degrees of timing.
I also like the way the car sounds going around the track!
the way the car drove for me with the stock setup, I was pretty happy too here. Durango did a really good job on the setup out of the box. to be honest I can't really think of anything I would change right now, heck, the only thing I have diff is I run a carbon strc front tower and I put one shim under the ball stud. I may go with like the carpet setup and take it out.
For 17.5 gearing with my Viper Black edition motor, I was using a 75T spur gear with a 33T pinion on our track and it felt really good. Viper at about 40 degrees of timing.
I also like the way the car sounds going around the track!
02-22-2016, 05:23 PM
#67
Tech Addict
Cain, did this get answered?
Question: When you run large pinion gears, do you space them a bit "forward" than that lip for the screws?
If not, can you explain more or picture?
Question: When you run large pinion gears, do you space them a bit "forward" than that lip for the screws?
If not, can you explain more or picture?
02-23-2016, 07:16 AM
#68
I'll see if I can take a pic. Basically, the screws that are to the "right" side of the motor, closer to the outer edge of the chassis have like a lip around them to the outside. So the pinion if you get to a certain size, it will basically contact this . However, if you run the pinion a bit more away from the motor on the shaft, it will clear it but not be perfectly lined up with the spur.
02-23-2016, 07:33 AM
#69
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Not sure if I want to get a 210F now as are indoor season is only about 6 more weeks or get a DEX8 and then in late fall get the 210F. 
02-23-2016, 08:59 AM
#70
02-23-2016, 10:06 AM
#72
Tech Adept
Is it possible to overcome issues that FredSwain describes on the front of this car. I always run emulsion shocks so not sure up travel will be a problem. How about bump steer is there a good fix?
02-23-2016, 11:18 AM
#74
I only run bladder shocks as their dampening properties are more consistent than emulsion. I need room for a bladder. I'm honestly not convinced that you have enough room even without them. Yes, you can remove the bump stops but I personally am against that idea. I run the V1 rear shocks and tower on my 210 as a result.
I use 6mm of shims at the wheel end of the tie rods to fix bump steer. Unfortunately, this causes flex at this location so I may end up getting some Exotek aluminum hubs.
I use 6mm of shims at the wheel end of the tie rods to fix bump steer. Unfortunately, this causes flex at this location so I may end up getting some Exotek aluminum hubs.
02-23-2016, 11:46 AM
#75
Tech Addict
Hi Cain,
the RR hanger uses the narrowest inserts and has stock 3 degrees inboard toe-in.
Its not really designed to tune toe-in from here, that part of the car is actually designed for future geometry options, this is why its not explained in the instruction manual.
having said that, you could use an insert that is less narrow which would give a little more inboard toe-in, however it might make the car a little too wide at the rear depending what rear wheels/tires you are using. but I would not recommend going any more than 1 step wider on the RR hanger insert than stock.
for example stock is "dash dot" with the dash inside.
you could use "dash" insert with the dash inside which would add some inboard toe-in. I calculate it would be approx 3.7 degrees each side.
Adjusting the toe-in in this area of the car isn't a go-to setup option but it is possible. but there could be negatives to doing this as its using the car outside of its intended design.
I hope that helps.
the RR hanger uses the narrowest inserts and has stock 3 degrees inboard toe-in.
Its not really designed to tune toe-in from here, that part of the car is actually designed for future geometry options, this is why its not explained in the instruction manual.
having said that, you could use an insert that is less narrow which would give a little more inboard toe-in, however it might make the car a little too wide at the rear depending what rear wheels/tires you are using. but I would not recommend going any more than 1 step wider on the RR hanger insert than stock.
for example stock is "dash dot" with the dash inside.
you could use "dash" insert with the dash inside which would add some inboard toe-in. I calculate it would be approx 3.7 degrees each side.
Adjusting the toe-in in this area of the car isn't a go-to setup option but it is possible. but there could be negatives to doing this as its using the car outside of its intended design.
I hope that helps.
My head starts thinking about it allready!