WallyRC

Cain, I am using the proline B4 ones. They work fine. Track width is a little bit wider though. I have exotek on one and proline on another.

TrashCan

iTrader: (28)

Hey guys needs some help. Anyone have the part number for the front hubs running 12mm hexs. Looks like the bearings are part of the knuckle and the only thing I am finding is the old school ones with the bearings in the wheels. I am at the end of google or just losing my mind. Thanks in advance.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

TD330382 or TDR330382, depending what site you look at.

WallyRC

Ran the 210f again on indoor clay. Really liking it. B44 tower mod worked great. Still dealing with a little loose rear end. But really happy with it this far. Went down to 3000wt in diff. Think I liked 5000 better.
2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear working well. Have 2x1.5F/2x1.6R in my 210. May go that route.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

don't be surprised you go to 7K or more.

WallyRC

I started with 10K.
Then went to 5K.
5 K was better. So I tried 3K.
Next on the list.. 7K.

Will let you know.
You hear and read so many different things. Thicker better for high traction and thinner for low.
Thinner better for high traction and thicker for low

Thicker for modified....
Thicker for stock...
Gonna test it all.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Yeah some vehicles I noticed that they were using up to 100K on the rear diff (D216) and this wasn't high traction conditions. Of course layout matters of the vehicle, but its interesting to see its not a universal thing going weight one way or another for something specific.

DHooter

iTrader: (27)

So what's the deal with Durango..... in pretty interested in running both the 210F and the 410v5 but after some searching I can't find a NIB 210f anywhere and the parts the I do find mostly say unavailable....... same with the a lot of the 410v5 stuff

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

The best way to put it is that Durango is being a bit shy and doesn't want to reveal what's really going to happen. For now some folks think they'll eventually ramp up production again. But many of us feel this is a death blow for Durango and we're just waiting for the funeral.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah, crazy as I have owned both of those vehicles and enjoyed them.

WallyRC

Well, was back out at the track last week. A lot of fun w/ this buggy. Went to 7000 in the diff and seemed about right. Still having issues with rear end loose on power. Believe it's the gear diff. Put a gear diff in my sons regular 210 and it was about the same as my 210f. With ball diff in 210 (sons) it's on rails.
So long story longer. I bought a used RZ6/ZX6 ball diff, gonna see if I can make that work. If I can't will sell this car to someone who can rip it up on carpet.

micholix

Hi Wally,

I've seen on most of the "Astro"- Set ups, they drop the front right high by 1 mm, compared to the rear, i'm not 100% sure if that helps at your track conditions, but may be worth to try!?
I noticed too, that the 210F and the 410v5 lack on uptravet at the rear arms, try to remove the rear uptravel stopper, as it could be, that the rear outer shock runs into the bump stopper in the turn and than the rear end comes loose?
What antisquat do you have on your car?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

That is the exact problem that the 210 has. It's at both ends though.

micholix

Yes Fred, you are absolutly correct, it's at both ends!
As you sayed over on the 210 thread, with the front end mod ( gull wing arms and the short 21.5 mm shocks) and the remoth of the rear stoppers, it would be better than.
I shortend the ball eyelet of the rear shock by about 1-1.5 mm( the section where the shaft were screwed in) too on my 410v5, to get enough rear uptravel!

Edit: with the new ae 27mm rear shocks, it would be perfect, i guess!?

WallyRC

Thanks for the advice. I will check it out.
Agree with you both on the uptravel issue. I have done both mods to increase up travel already. I don't think that is the issue though. Because I fly into a very sharp turn after the straight and it grips really well the whole turn and on power to hit some doubles. It's when I am usually on hairpins and trying to get on power just after the apex. If I don't ease into it the rear end gets loose. I took the sway bar off the rear but may put it back on to se if that helps.
Also if on power on landing jumps it can get squirrelly.
I am running 3.2 or so of toe in ( the next inset up from bottom on manual) and 1 degree of antisquat. Our track has good traction but is bumpy with big jumps. Tough to tune perfectly. Softer spring to handle the bumps but need firmer springs for jumps. I am running 2x1.6 front and rear. 35wt front and 27.5 rear. Thinking of going 30 at rear to maybe slow down transfer.
Also,thinking of trying 3x 1.3 f and 3x1.4 rear to up the pack for landing but keep dampening the same.
Thoughts.
Thanks!!
Edit: may check out some other rear shocks. I wish they had a 27mm body from Durango. I put in 52mm Ti-Ni rear because I bent the 50mm ones so I can't remove the rubber stopper because the piston will travel too high.