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Old 01-04-2017, 11:23 AM   #481
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Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Try to pull the sun gear out with an longer flat plairs, but be gently by pulling, that should work too!?
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Also, try to spray break cleaner to get most of the old oil and residue out. Oil makes the gear to stick to the bottom as well. Specially if you use thick oils like 100K. My pick is thin and flexes but I pull gently and rotate the gear as I pull with the pick under it. It takes couple of turn to get the gear out.
Thanks. I'll see if I can source one. Just got needle nose here and its too fat to grab the gear. She is wedged pretty darn good. Something like this?

https://gokimco.com/excelta-2647-esd...FQeOaQodLo4AIQ

I had to punch the other one out.


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Sweet all my parts came in today so I can get back to building this thing. I hate it when you've got everything laid out and your in that builders groove; then you are missing something or something breaks, causing you to have to pack up and wait. Bright side is I now will have fully upgraded shocks and all alloy spacers every where. The one thing I forgot was the alloy wing mount. I've got a spare plastic one but from what some of you have said, along with some YouTube guys, I will break the stock one. Wheelers are fast enough that they get big air, which inevitably leads to some rolls here and there...
I would say in the meantime go with jb weld like someone else mentioned to strengthen the stock wing mounts. That should get you buy. I was thinking of exoteks but man are they $$$.
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:22 PM   #482
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Something like those pliers would work. Harforfreight should have something similar for around $5ish.

I did get the exotek wing mount and is a problem solved and I don't have to worry about it again. And I like the screw-down wing instead of the body pins.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:08 PM   #483
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The best and easiest way to clean out the diffs is to soak the parts in mineral spirits. This does a fantastic job of getting the diff oil off of the parts.
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:04 PM   #484
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As I'm assembling that rear wing mount, the problem is obvious. The material is that stiff carbon composite. Stiff and has no flex built in at all. I think flex in this area would have been harmless as far as handling is concerned. Easy to replace, so I guess Exotek it will be...
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:08 PM   #485
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OK, I had written a long this sucks post but I changed my mind. Which leads to a simple question. Is there a reason the Durango motor mount specifies four screws to hold the motor to it? None of my other cars require more than two.

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Old 01-04-2017, 11:15 PM   #486
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The piece it too thin also. the wing breaks at the thinest point. make that significantly thicker and it probably would be fine.

As for the motor mount, that came style mount I don't mind it using 4 screws. You actually don't go about removing that cam much unless you are working on the motor or switching it out. when I pull the motor, i leave the cam on. The 2 screws to hold the cam in one position work well enough.

I only wish it didn't have that "lip" around where the pinion goes. Without that you open up a whole lot of gearing options.
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Last edited by Cain; 01-05-2017 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 01-05-2017, 03:25 AM   #487
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Well, Associated blue thread lock and one 10mm screw, one 6mm screw will have to do.

The Team Orion VST2 Pro XLW motors, by way of the reduced can size, only allow for two screws at a time in this mount. 15mm spacing on a normal motor, 13mm on the XLW. Non issue in 99% of cars out there, but not this one. I have other vehicles that use a Cam style mount, including a 550 powered SCT. They all only use two screws. I feel better about that now but boy was I frustrated earlier. Someone put a lot of thought into this kit so when it specified four screws, I figured there was a reason.
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Old 01-05-2017, 03:31 AM   #488
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I was about to use the only low turn spare motor I have left atm, a Reds 5.5T. Shown for reference. My OCD would have eaten me alive. All my motors have matching Esc's. One reason I can't run Trinity...... 🗯
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Old 01-05-2017, 04:11 AM   #489
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Hi Alan, i also use only two screws at the motor mount, because i want the solering blugs at the top of the motor and this was the only position.

I did some wireing the other day, quite happy with the result, as soldering is one thing i realy dont like.

Still waiting for my center shafts, to finish the car...
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:04 AM   #490
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looks good. looking forward to hearing how you like the saddle configuration.

I am running the shorty in the recommended position, but I also put the ESC behind the motor as I think that offers a better balance to the battery. Its the same kind of layout they recommend on the dex210F. I also think it probably gives me a bit more rear bite which when I move it outdoor should help things.

Only thing that sucks is the capacitor mounting location where I do this is hard to find room. I probably could have just ran a long jumper wire but I mounted the cap on the center "brace" that runs under driveshaft more towards the center diff to give clearance. Looks like it will hold up there as its being braced on one side by the battery in addition to the heavy servo tape holding it in place.
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:21 AM   #491
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Does anyone tried to stiffen up the rear chassis brace. I think the chassis has too much flex. I will try to make a duplicate of the rear plastic chassis brace in 5mm carbon fiber and see if it helps with excessive flex. Some times it flexes so much that the center shaft pops out of the center diff.
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Old 01-05-2017, 09:19 AM   #492
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wow that some serious flex you are seeing. From what I recall of the brace, it almost seems like you could do what you are thinking for sure. Heck, if they did an alloy option could be a good way to add some weight if you want in that location and do some bracing too.

any of you tried the alternate position on the axle for more onpower steering?

I am also debating putting the alloy rear hubs I have here back on. I like the setup options it gives and I don't think i'll mess with rear toe there for carpet at least, so leave it at 0 at this point. All this most likely after the coming race this weekend as I need to get another vehicle setup for my kids.
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Old 01-05-2017, 11:28 AM   #493
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Cain, thanks, i'm quit happy with the result too!
It will take some time, i can try the car, as i have no track arround me over the winter time!
I had a chat with Chris Doughty the other day, about the battery and motor layout, he sayed that preferes the saddle pack configuration on the v5 and as i dont have shortys, i thoght i'll give it a try too.

I've got the replacement 42.5 mm shock shafts today, they look exactly the same, as the stock kit once!
The shop i got my v5 and which sent me the replacements sayed, that td told him, these are one from the new patch, so may the hardening process of the shafts hase changed now, but you cant see the difference.

I'll keep them in my 210F spare box, as i'm using the longer 44 mm one right now on the 410v5.
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:17 PM   #494
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Wow, you're ahead of me for sure. I'm still working on diffs. But I'm also working for five, bsing and reading for ten ect... 😁 At this point there's no way I'm going to have my 210v3 and this car dialed in for this weekends season opener. So the stress of the time crunch is gone. Instead of racing this weekend, I'll be watching and helping out at the track. 😐 Next week though, time to get some of these cars ready. I almost had the V3 ready, but I changed the entire power system out so I need time to program the Esc and get the gearing right. Our season opener is a full on, liverc named race. Not the time to be experimenting with a new car.
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Old 01-05-2017, 12:18 PM   #495
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Forgot the pictures. This thing is much more substantial than the B44 series I'm used to.
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