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Old 03-05-2016, 09:28 AM   #151
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richmtb01: what did you find for the solution to the issue and what servo are you using exactly? I am looking to use this:

Futaba S9372SV servo

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFSGA&P=ML

Dimensions:



in your and anyone elses opinion, will this be a problem? and if so, what solution options are there short of a different servo?
Great minds think alike! That's the same servo I'm using and it's getting caught on the lower protion where it turns from the plastic bottom cap to the aluminum case. Everything worked great till I bolted it to the chassis. I unscrewed the four servo bolts to slam it as close to the chassis and it's still getting caught. I will probably remove the Ackerman and shave it down a bit. I don't see how you can add a spacer anywhere.....but I also haven't spent a ton of time trouble shooting it yet
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:16 AM   #152
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good stuff. I'll keep any eye out for that as the servo is awesome
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:07 PM   #153
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Richmtb, check to see if you added the spacers under the acketman above the bearing. If still rubbing add another spacer in same place.
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:17 PM   #154
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Just got done with the finishing touches on my build and it's maiden voyage was the 1st heat today (no practice laps for me). After spending 3 heats shaking out the bugs (uggg!, got the new car blues) , went from 10th to 1st and won the C-Main. The buggy is great though. Been running these 4wd dingo's since they came out. Easy to drive fast. Seems more stable and not as twitchy as the previous versions, but they still turn very well.
I did however break a front shock shaft. I'm not a fan of the silver ones. I had some old v4 front shocks I slapped on for the main. They worked well, just had to adjust the droop and ride height.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:35 AM   #155
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I also finally had a chance to put the car on the track today, granted it was practice and not a race weekend, but all I can say is awesome. Never mind the flaws with the instructions and lack of fluids, the car handles straight out of the box better then the V4.

With the V4 I had to make a number of set up changes to get it to handle the way I like, but the V5 was spot on. Only change from the instructions was no front sway bar, as Chris Doughtry (sp) suggested.


Ran the car with 7/10/3 diff oil and ASC 35 wt shock oil. It did tend to chassis slap on the really big jumps, but that was only if I over shot them and we do have one large jump with a flat landing. I do not want to tune for this, as the car handled so well everywhere else.

Durability proved well, as there was some kids with Slashes on the track and was taken out a few time with them cross tracking in the wrong lane. The buggy held up to them with only once popping a link.

So IMO, this is the best buggy I have ever driven.
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:18 AM   #156
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good info. My vehicle came in so I am going to work on getting it together today.

Is that right PIHGUAM1 on the diffs, 7-10-3, in particular the center diff?

richmtb01: I got my together and I see the issue now once everything is all bolted together. Fun how that is huh? For me, it hits when I have it move from lock to lock. Reviewing it more I did some trimming but the case is pretty fat,I didn't want to go hog wild so I dropped a different servo in. I'll see how this savox 1257TG does as originally I was going to use it in something else. Another thing, you will need a taller servo horn instead of the included one as the case is fatter, so the horn hits the case sooner and you lose some steering throw.

I also noticed that you need to make sure that front "hoop" that is like one of the first steps seats properly with the diff case. I didn't do this initially and broke the hoop. Luckily I had a spare from the DEX210F since that is not used. Last time I'll complain about a variety of extra parts on a build lol.

So once I got that all situated, no more binding, car feels good. I'll save the servo for the DEX8.

Lastly I am glad I took apart portions of the car as the previous owner had no oil in the center diff, and have the wrong size piston on one of the shocks. Not a big deal, but its always worth going through a car no matter who puts it together.


Oh, anyone got a FDR to start with for a 8.5T motor? I'll post pics of my layout once I get it done, It will be shorty setup with ESC behind the motor and I moved the receiver and transponder to the middle section between the center diff and the servo, kind of like my DEX210F.
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Last edited by Cain; 03-07-2016 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:03 AM   #157
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Is that right PIHGUAM1 on the diffs, 7-10-3, in particular the center diff?
Using ofna diff oil. But it depends on the track your running on for the weight you use.

I really thinf the center dif has made a difference in how planted the car feels.

First race of the month is next weekend. I'll let you know how it does wheel to wheel.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:56 AM   #158
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sounds good. Mainly asking as 10K seemed light in comparison to what I saw posted for setups lol.

One other thing, there appears to be some sort of "plastic" diff locker included? Is that what that is for? It looks very similar to what the alloy one is but not sure.

I think the servo is going to work out, the Savox one. It feels pretty good. will see how well it holds a line.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:17 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
sounds good. Mainly asking as 10K seemed light in comparison to what I saw posted for setups lol.

One other thing, there appears to be some sort of "plastic" diff locker included? Is that what that is for? It looks very similar to what the alloy one is but not sure.

I think the servo is going to work out, the Savox one. It feels pretty good. will see how well it holds a line.
I've been running Savox servos in ALL my cars and the one on my 410 has worked flawlessly for over 3 years now and still as good as the day I bought it. You will not be disappointed. I'v been hacked on practice days by 8th scales and SCT and my Savox servos haven't skipped a beat. Quite durable indeed.



PIHGUAM1,

How do you find the slipper with the center diff works? I'm very curious as I REALLY dislike the center diff in my current wheeler with the on/off only behavior. I find that's fine for some sections of track but since we run outdoor in south florida, things can get really slick and you need to dial in some slip to keep the thing from breaking loose so easily. Also, what front blocks does the v5 come with? I had the 19 on my v3 initially and it was twitchy, but the 21 blocks made the car so smooth to drive. I believe the V4 came with the 19 blocks but the 21 blocks killed its twitchiness too. Wondering how the v5 is affected by this change.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:22 AM   #160
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I've been running Savox servos in ALL my cars and the one on my 410 has worked flawlessly for over 3 years now and still as good as the day I bought it. You will not be disappointed. I'v been hacked on practice days by 8th scales and SCT and my Savox servos haven't skipped a beat. Quite durable indeed.



PIHGUAM1,

How do you find the slipper with the center diff works? I'm very curious as I REALLY dislike the center diff in my current wheeler with the on/off only behavior. I find that's fine for some sections of track but since we run outdoor in south florida, things can get really slick and you need to dial in some slip to keep the thing from breaking loose so easily. Also, what front blocks does the v5 come with? I had the 19 on my v3 initially and it was twitchy, but the 21 blocks made the car so smooth to drive. I believe the V4 came with the 19 blocks but the 21 blocks killed its twitchiness too. Wondering how the v5 is affected by this change.
It comes with 19 blocks .

One other thing, the steering "knuckle" I guess, its interesting they don't use a locknut on the end of the ball stud like on the 2wd buggy. Any issues seen there?
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Old 03-07-2016, 02:40 PM   #161
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Incubus I set the slipper per the manual and seemed to run fine. Our track is out door carpet and is high bite when dry. When it rains or has moisture it becomes slippery. When I was testing my buggy it was bone dry, so was high bite. When it does become slick we switch tires. In fact we have 3 - 4 sets of tires to compensate for the changing conditions.

So for now I have not messed with the slipper but will play with it when the conditions warrant it.

Let us know how it works for you.

On a side note, when I ran the desc410 that had the same center diff set up I would loosen the slipper when slick and it helped to get the traction down.I really liked that truck, but it was a glass truck that broke an arm every 4th battery. :-/
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:11 PM   #162
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Here is my current layout for shorty and motor rear:

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Old 03-08-2016, 03:54 AM   #163
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You have no problem with your center diff? I have trouble to put in the metal crown gears. Only halfway though even I hammer them.
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:16 AM   #164
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You have no problem with your center diff? I have trouble to put in the metal crown gears. Only halfway though even I hammer them.
Hi KINSON88,

Don't hammer/ hard push them on the out drive, as you'll never get them off again!
Sand, or file the edges of the hexagon on the out drives, as sometimes there is a little bit to much material on them from the hard coating.
The the crown gear shoud/must slide on the hexagon just easyly, otherwise you'll need some new gears!

Hope that helps?
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:45 AM   #165
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My diff came basically pre-assembled from the last owner, He started the build but never finished. So I guess I will see when it gets to that point for full dissasembly.
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