Team C t8e v3
 

I've searched multiple ways and have pulled up for sale threads and a couple mentions but nothing officially for this model, so if my search-fu methods suck I apologize lol.

I picked up my first 1:8 scale at a little hole in the wall rc place up in Nampa Idaho it was on consignment sale and the shop owner said it would be a great car so I bought it lol. I've tried searching out the former owner to no avail because I wanted to know what was done to it and anything I should be aware of. So I started to dig around the net and see what I could find.

It has a trackstar turnigy 150a sensored esc paired to a trackstar 24000kv motor, a Hitec hs-5985mg servo, and runs on 2 gens ace 5000mah lipo's.

I love the car, it's strong and durable, it's quick and I'm enjoying learning about it a lot. However, I want more out of it. I've seen what can be upgraded but I have to learn about things and research them. I know I want to upgrade at least the motor, and I'm going to look into shocks and lighter weight options. I don't know all of the terms so go easy on me lol. I would love any and all feedback and this will also become a build thread to show the progress of what is done to it (provided there isn't an official thread for this little monster). I'm going to post some pics as soon as I can crop them to size (from cellphone) and I know she's dirty under the body which some of it is from me but the rust trails are a concern because it shows me lack of care. Also have to replace the rear cvd because it disappeared after its first run in my care.

Anyways looking forward to suggestions, criticism, h8mail, and everything in between. Have a great day and pics will he coming soon!

Well figured out the photo side but haven't reached enough posts yet. So when that happens I'll put up pics lol.

Okay pics are attached :)

That's a decent motor. If you want to go faster, buy a larger pinion gear or increase the timing in the esc with a programming card. You need an infrared temp gun to make sure the motor and esc stay below 160 degrees though. Have you checked to see if the throttle epa on the radio is at 100% ?? some people lower the epa on the radio when they let kids drive.
I would make sure it's 100% and re-calibrate the esc, just to be sure.
Few new guys find an 1/8th scale buggy on 4 S lipo slow.

I currently have two of these buggies and love them! Bought one brand new last spring. Built it and went to the track for it's maiden voyage. I hadn't raced in at least 5 years prior to this. Put the car on the track in box stock configuration and qualified 2nd in the a-main in a pretty talented field. The car just plain works!

Only thing I've upgraded on the car since new is a pair of aluminum chassis braces. Reason I bought them is because I cased a big jump and the chassis flexed to the point where it tore the rear mounting hole on the body. The aluminum braces cut down on a lot of flex. Aside from that, I've been running the car for a full season and haven't broken a single part. Only thing I see after a season of running is that the rear out drives are showing some wear. Aside from that, it still looks and runs like new.

As for you wanting to upgrade the shocks, I don't see any reason. The shocks that come with this buggy are among the best I've ever seen. I'm still running stock pistons, springs and everything.

I have the 2100kv version of the Trackstar motor in one of my buggies and I think it's too much power for most tracks on 4S. Would rather run a 1900kv, but they were out of stock when I ordered.

Looks like you've got a really nice buggy there. I would tear it down, clean everything well and rebuild all the shocks and diffs. Should be a very reliable and good running buggy for you. These Team C buggies are way under rated. I've raced several big brands over the years, but the T8eV3 is hands-down the best handling buggy I've driven right out of the box!:nod:

The radio is at 100% had to purchase that separately, I looked into the programming side and looks like the program boxes are hard to find so I'll research some more options there. It's not that I find it slow, that's not the case. I just want more power. With my job I won't find myself at a track any time soon, so it's parking lot time or fields while I wait.

As far as shocks go, which is preferable for their application stiff or soft springs? Closer inspection while cleaning has shown that one of the springs is elongated past the others. I find that buying things used provides an adventure of learning and allows me to become more intimate with the inner workings and quirks.

I can see that I'll probably be bugging you behind the scenes to get your opinion. Also what is suggested for diff fluid? I am finding there isn't many options for wheels, is this for a specific reason? There is more running in my head but I have to keep learning lol.

I'm pretty sure the book setting for diffs is 5/5/2. I went 7 in the center diff on mine, but may try 5 out next time I rebuild them.

As for wheels, 1/8th buggy wheels are all basically the same. I've used stock, AKA, and a few other brands and all work fine.

Have two packages waiting for me in Vegas with upgrades for the car, but I found myself in a shop in Cincinnati and couldn't resist picking up the new motor.

The castle motor is not a direct fit, had to shave a little off the steering support bracket (I think that's what it is) with a dremel. Also the motor bracket that sits on the chassis had to be removed, going to working shaving it down to help support the motor so all the weight isn't being supported by the top of the can. Jumped from a 16 tooth to an 18. Still waiting to get into Vegas to get my parts, I don't really want to run it more than a test without the rear center cvd. I can post more detailed pictures of the motor in there if there is interest.

Have you put a battery in the tray yet to make sure the motor shaft doesn't hit? I'm not familiar with Castle motors, but form the pic, it looks like a truggy motor. I know that certain motors need the optional motor spacer to keep the motor shaft from interfering with the battery. I know that my buddy has to run the spacer in his with a Tekin 1900kv T8 motor. I have a Reedy and Trackstar 2100 in either of my buggies and didn't need the spacer. If yours rubs, I doubt you're gonna be able to move the motor any further.

In between the shaft and the battery a nickel (1.95mm) can slide in and out easily, but the back of the can sits flush against the support bracket. There isn't any room for anything larger after shaving where I have. Unless I can get that part machined to allow more room.... that might be a possibility. There are a few things I'm looking at getting machined already so I'll order those parts and put it as an option.

It's the castle 1515 2200kv motor paired with the mamba monster 2 ESC, picked it up at a great price brand new. Also picked up a new proline body at the same time so now I have something to do in my downtime lol.

might want to switch out to a **68 motor... with such a small gap, the post will jam against the motor's end bell when you land from a bad jump and/or do cartwheels...

The trackstar that was in there, the can length was 70mm overall being 87mm from end of shaft to end bell. 75.18mm just on the can for the castle, I'll look into other options as time goes by, but I can't return the motor after an install, and can't prove it hasn't been run. So, I'll run it for the moment and see what happens. Like I mentioned earlier, I'll just be running around in parking lots, so no jumps or anything off hand that will cause it to roll.

It's a curse and a blessing that all manufactures are different and have different specs for what can fit and what can be made to fit. Although, I also find it frustrating too. I appreciate the feedback, and if you have more I'm more than willing to listen :)

Just a quick update....Arrived early to collect my packages and back out the door again. I've been a little quiet because of weather and no cell service in some locations. But now it's back to California in the morning. My fiancé caught me putting in the rear center cvd lol.