Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Gettting back into R/C >

Gettting back into R/C

Gettting back into R/C

Old 01-06-2016, 07:00 AM
  #31  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rabidtrout View Post
You will need to take the receiver out of your RC10 and put it in whatever you get. You couldn't just get another receiver and connect it to your your remote. Not with that model of remote you have. I was just telling you because it kind of sounded like to me, that you may have been a little confused. Sorry if I misinterpreted that.
Interesting. When I bought the Spektrum at HobbyTown they led me to believe I could just get additional receivers for additional cars. Then I just use the little binding chip to bind the new receiver to the radio.

But you actually nailed the head on my new plan I came up with yesterday. Since I now have the new battery holder for my old Futaba, I can put the 27MHz receiver back in the RC10 and have it completely period correct.

But since the RC10 is going back on the shelf, it won't matter that it's not running.

Question, do the NiMH batteries like to be stored fully discharged? Or should I charge them up to store them?
emerilnut is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:08 AM
  #32  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bubbaslash View Post
Sounds like you like the Slash and you like buggies. Have you seen the Proline Pro2 buggy? It's based off of the Pro2 SCT. Good looking kit with the old-school rear-motor setup. Plus, it is a kit containing almost every upgrade that Proline makes for a Slash. Just add their aluminum caster blocks and any aluminum bulkhead for a Slash and you've got one tough racer/basher
Not necessarily. I'm trying to let the Slash grow on me, and that's why I haven't pulled the trigger on having the LHS order me one. I just can't get over the size of that thing. I'm still weighing options and starting to find out how good Losi, Durango, and Redcat are. When I was in this hobby way back when, it was Tamiya, Associated, and Kyosho.

While I was there chatting with the LHS employee, another club racer customer was there chatting with us. He did mention the Proline and how they made a quality product. He was a Serpent sponsored guy. Meant nothing to me at the time, but I now know that's a pretty damn good brand.

I'm still stuck on the buggy thing. So I think I'll make my choices there and definitely open to used stuff. So I'm going to wait to a make a decision on anything until I get to a better LHS that has some used stuff or get offers from the good folks here.
emerilnut is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 07:20 AM
  #33  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bedford, IN
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by emerilnut View Post
Interesting. When I bought the Spektrum at HobbyTown they led me to believe I could just get additional receivers for additional cars. Then I just use the little binding chip to bind the new receiver to the radio.
This is correct. The Spektrum you have can run multiple models.

I think he was referring to the controller that comes with the Slash.

WAAAY back in 1988 my first RC car was a Kyosho Ultima. When my son wanted us to switch to buggy's there was no other choice for us. Found a couple Ultima RB6's in the for sale thread and been going strong ever since.
oPAULo is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 08:27 AM
  #34  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (268)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 32,697
Trader Rating: 268 (100%+)
Default

one feature I did prefer when I went from Spektrum to futaba was that a given receiver was not specifically binded to a given model.

So lets say I want to put the receiver that was in CAR A into CAR B, on the last spektrum stuff I had (DX2S or whatever it was called) the receiver was bound to the model of the radio, and I had to rebind that to do the change.

With the futaba, once bound to the radio, any receiver will work with any model basically. Makes swapping easier. But if you don't do it often, its not a big deal.

As a side note on that futaba thing, you can control multiple vehicles at one that way lol.

Have you already identified what tools, etc you want to get?

As a suggestion, I would recommend that you get tools that have a pass thru on the handle for hex drivers. In situations where you need a bit more torque, it can really work well to just pass another driver through and get a good twist.

Also, look into the various oils you may need, some suggestions:

- Shock Oil (PT Racing Brand I use, but you can get some good stuff from other places like AE oil)
- AE Green Slime (helps when assemblying shock orings)
- Differential oil (this will be dependent on the vehicle if it uses a fluid filled gear diff)
- Blue Threadlock (for metal to metal connections)
- Good Tire CA Glue (I like AKA stuff but a variety of brands work well)
- Simple Green (Works great for cleaning stuff)
- WD-40 (I use this to blast off metal parts after I clean them for no rust)
- Motor Spray (note, I use a particular cleaner that is safe for electronics that you can get at a car hardware store, cheaper and works fine for cleaning motors, bearings, etc)
- Bearing oil

Some useful tools (note, you don't need all of this, just stuff I found useful):

- Digital Caliper
- Hex Nut Drivers
- Hex Drivers
- Body Scissors
- Body Hole punch
- "third Hand" Jewelry tool, basically will let you hold stuff still while you solder
- Battery Connectors like deans or something else
- Soldering Iron and Electronic specific solder
- Quality Servo Tape (I like the clear stuff from Parma, same as some stuff at walmart)
- Dentist style "pick" to get dirt out of screw holes
- Brush of some sort to dust vehicle off
- Alcohol or similar wipes (useful in a pinch to quick clean a surface for remounted, like a tire or esc that came loose)
- Trakpower dry lubricant (works well for stuff you want to lubricate that you don't want to collect dust)

Since you are running Spektrum gear, pick up there glitch capacitor or similar device:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...-spm1600/p6570

If you find you have issues where it appears the vehicle stops responding to inputs from the remote intermittently, plug this into an open channel on your receiver. Some BECs of certain ESCs (like the castle Mamba Max Pro for instance) have issues with higher power drawing servos in combination with spektrum receivers. In general this can clear that up. Having it in the pit box is a way to quick diagnose a BEC issue too if for some odd reason something is going on and could get you through a race day.
Cain is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 09:02 AM
  #35  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cain View Post
As a suggestion, I would recommend that you get tools that have a pass thru on the handle for hex drivers. In situations where you need a bit more torque, it can really work well to just pass another driver through and get a good twist.

Also, look into the various oils you may need, some suggestions:

- Shock Oil (PT Racing Brand I use, but you can get some good stuff from other places like AE oil)
- AE Green Slime (helps when assemblying shock orings)
- Differential oil (this will be dependent on the vehicle if it uses a fluid filled gear diff)
- Blue Threadlock (for metal to metal connections)
- Good Tire CA Glue (I like AKA stuff but a variety of brands work well)
- Simple Green (Works great for cleaning stuff)
- WD-40 (I use this to blast off metal parts after I clean them for no rust)
- Motor Spray (note, I use a particular cleaner that is safe for electronics that you can get at a car hardware store, cheaper and works fine for cleaning motors, bearings, etc)
- Bearing oil

Some useful tools (note, you don't need all of this, just stuff I found useful):

- Digital Caliper
- Hex Nut Drivers
- Hex Drivers
- Body Scissors
- Body Hole punch
- "third Hand" Jewelry tool, basically will let you hold stuff still while you solder
- Battery Connectors like deans or something else
- Soldering Iron and Electronic specific solder
- Quality Servo Tape (I like the clear stuff from Parma, same as some stuff at walmart)
- Dentist style "pick" to get dirt out of screw holes
- Brush of some sort to dust vehicle off
- Alcohol or similar wipes (useful in a pinch to quick clean a surface for remounted, like a tire or esc that came loose)
- Trakpower dry lubricant (works well for stuff you want to lubricate that you don't want to collect dust)
Sweet! I already have a lot of these tools from the days when I raced actual cars and from doing my own gunsmithing. And I have some of the RC stuff when I tried to get back in the hobby with nitro 10 years ago. Alot of the liquid stuff I don't have, but those can be ordered.

But what a great list. Thanks!!!
emerilnut is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 10:04 AM
  #36  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
JRSlash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

My recommendation is to get a brand new kit, either a 2wd sct or a 2wd buggy. Associated will be preferable. AE has a really good parts support network. Reason been is, you will get you to learn a lot about your car as you build it. Learn a bit about all the adjustments and tuning options unlike getting a RTR and just slap upgrades and dumping $$$ into it and end up replacing it anyways. ( I went thru that with my slash). And you can get started with an inexpensive brushless 17.5T motor ESC combo and start racing stock class. 17.5 is an awesome class to start racing now days. I did the whole slash deal and raced 17.5 with it for a while until I realized the amount of $$$ I dumped into it to make it as good as a sc10 or TLR 22. Just my two cents. Welcome back and enjoy!
JRSlash is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 10:11 AM
  #37  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
JRSlash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 982
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by emerilnut View Post
I'm not married to the idea of buying new. My first nitro car was a used one that I saw at an old LHS that is no longer there. Problem I have is finding a hobby shop that would have used stuff. The LHS in my area is a Hobbytown. Great advice from knowledgeable staff, but a small R/C section in that store.

What I need to do is head over to HotShots in a different part of town where they have a track, and I'm sure I'll see some used stuff there.
I was just there at HotShot this past Saturday for their raceolution new years race. Awesome track. They had a few cars there for sale.(used ones).
JRSlash is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 10:22 AM
  #38  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
HighRevz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Your Mom's
Posts: 91
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Keep it safe, charge your lipos at a "1c" rate. ...Meaning, charge at 5 amps for a 5000mah lipo, 3.5 amps for a 3500mah lipo, 6.2 amps for a 6200mah lipo and so forth etc.

In addition, I GOTTA recommend the HPI Blitz flux to you. I know this is subjective but I've owned 2 Slashes and my Blitz was 4 times more durable and didnt flip over everytime I hit the road. If you are driving on ANY roads or high traction surface, have fun chasing that Slash around after flipping it everywhere.
HighRevz is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 10:46 AM
  #39  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: U.C. TX
Posts: 179
Default

Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
This is correct. The Spektrum you have can run multiple models.
Really? I didn't think the DX2E had model memory. So in theory, if you bind two receivers to one car, you could drive them both at the same time with the same remote then, right? I don't think there is any way to switch between more than 1 receiver with that remote. I just glanced through the manual and didn't see anything in regards to that.. Granted, could have missed it.
Rabidtrout is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 10:46 AM
  #40  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 85
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I was in the same boat as you two years ago. I ended up with a 4x4 brushless slash for me and my kid and love it. It is a great truck for kids to learn on and bash around the neighborhood. I also ended up with an Associated SC10.2 for my local track but only drive it at the track. The Slash gets way more drive time because of the kids.

My advice... embrace the 2.4GHz radios, brushless motors, and LiPo batteries from the start. You wont have to deal with runaway vehicles (AM radios!) and battery packs that have memory or short run time.

BE VERY CAREFUL!!! with LiPo batteries. They are not something to fear but something to respect. Without understanding how to properly charge them, you can burn down your house, seriously. Learn how to charge them properly and get a good quality LiPo charging bag just to be safe. Something like this:

https://www.commonsenserc.com/produc...roducts_id=186
Crashaholic is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:01 AM
  #41  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Crashaholic View Post

BE VERY CAREFUL!!! with LiPo batteries. They are not something to fear but something to respect. Without understanding how to properly charge them, you can burn down your house, seriously. Learn how to charge them properly and get a good quality LiPo charging bag just to be safe. Something like this:

https://www.commonsenserc.com/produc...roducts_id=186
Yeah, the more I'm reading about them here, I'm seeing all these horror stories! Starting fires, ruining them forever, can't even store them. What gives?

I want to embrace LiPo but it is very likely that I'll run them one afternoon, and then may not run them again for a few months. But apparently, that's a no no?
emerilnut is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:02 AM
  #42  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 123
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JRSlash View Post
I was just there at HotShot this past Saturday for their raceolution new years race. Awesome track. They had a few cars there for sale.(used ones).

Nice, good to hear they have some used ones to look at. I wasn't going to be able to make it out there this weekend, but I think I'm going to try and force some time to make it out that way. I live in a different part of town so it's like a 45 minute drive for me. Ironic since I actually grew up 15 minutes from there.
emerilnut is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:10 AM
  #43  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (268)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 32,697
Trader Rating: 268 (100%+)
Default

for my lipos if I have larger down time I just storage charge them and probably once a month if they have no use just check voltages and bring them up if need be. Haven't had any issues.

With the newer chargers these days that have cycling abilities, you can just discharge and then charge them up with a touch of a button.

I was initially wary of lipos too, but as I have gotten in the swing of things with these, and mind you i did the lipo thing early in the days of 1/8 electric which could really stress a lipo out, they have been great.

And to me, all things considered, when the final days of NIMHs were around, i don't miss when they had the off chance of turning into a hand grenade. A lipo when all things go bad may catch fire, but I know I can just back away from a fire, kind of hard to dodge shrapnel when NIMHs exploded. Also, chargining in a liposack is a must as well in my opinion and becomes second nature.
Cain is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:10 AM
  #44  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bedford, IN
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rabidtrout View Post
Really? I didn't think the DX2E had model memory.
Ahhhh you might be right sir. I thought it was a different model.
oPAULo is offline  
Old 01-06-2016, 11:14 AM
  #45  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 179
Default

Originally Posted by emerilnut View Post
Yeah, the more I'm reading about them here, I'm seeing all these horror stories! Starting fires, ruining them forever, can't even store them. What gives?

I want to embrace LiPo but it is very likely that I'll run them one afternoon, and then may not run them again for a few months. But apparently, that's a no no?
Lipos are really not that bad. Very few incidents happen. I've stored lipos for a year and then charged them up and they ran just like they did before storage.

Don't stab the pack with anything and you'll be fine. I'd recommend a hardcase pack to protect the cells.

In the early days of Lipos the main cause of destruction was early chargers didn't detect how many cells were hooked up and people would accidentally charge a 2s pack with a 3s voltage. 99% of lipo chargers now have cell detection on them and will not charge a battery if it thinks it has a different cell count.

Another thing to keep in mind is that you have to unplug the battery when you are done running it. ESC's continue to draw a very small amount of current even with the switch in the off position and will drain your battery to unsafe levels in a few weeks. I had a 2s pack get down to 1.2 volts because I forgot that one time. I was able to save the pack by charging it in Nihm mode for about a minute to get the pack voltage back up to 6v and then it charged up just fine. I used that pack for another 3 months of racing before I retired it.
Myt3rocks is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.