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Old 11-13-2005, 07:43 PM   #16
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The CVD's make the rear act like it has another degree of anti squat in it. They bind slightly under power which makes the rear end level more quickly when exiting a turn. Most people like the uni's because they free up the rear end of the car and allow weight to transfer from one side to the other more easily. The B4 uses cvd's, has awful dogbone plunge and doesn't seem to be disadvantaged in the turning department. If anything, the changes to the Bk2 are to make it act more like the B4 does
I'm just going to keep both cars around till I get it all figured out.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:08 PM   #17
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The Factory Losi guys don't even use e-clips, they drill a small hole and put in a set screw that holds the pin in place.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:10 PM   #18
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um..... k?
we were discussing CVD's vs. Dogbones
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Scoring Pro
The Factory Losi guys don't even use e-clips, they drill a small hole and put in a set screw that holds the pin in place.

I looked at that. I think it would end up slightly weaker. Not a big deal for someone like BK. For me, I'd break it sooner. E-clips just end up being another maintenance item.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka
The CVD's make the rear act like it has another degree of anti squat in it. They bind slightly under power which makes the rear end level more quickly when exiting a turn. Most people like the uni's because they free up the rear end of the car and allow weight to transfer from one side to the other more easily. The B4 uses cvd's, has awful dogbone plunge and doesn't seem to be disadvantaged in the turning department. If anything, the changes to the Bk2 are to make it act more like the B4 does
I'm just going to keep both cars around till I get it all figured out.

I would never have guessed there was any binding in a CVD. Hey, how long has the BK2 been out? Is Losi going to be changing it soon?
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbarron
I am of the same opinion as both of you. There is a good split and equal parts support for AE and Losi at the track. I have always liked Losi stuff. The first AE that I ever bought was a T3 and I have been into this since the RC10 was king. My first Losi was a JRXS, and I loved it. I am going to get the Losi unless someone can prove it slower, which I doubt. I have just been looking at the instructions to both cars and I would rather build and wrench on the Losi. I wish it did not have e-clips though.
I should have said "JRX2" not "JRXS". Ooops. I was asking around at my track and it seems that pink taper pins are the tire of choice. What does the front usually work best with? Its a watered indoor clay track. The jumps are supercross style and timing seems to be everything. Anyway I am rambling.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:41 PM   #22
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If pink tapers are the choice in the rear then either 7202 or 7206 pinks. probably best to sand the ribs on tires down halfway or more.
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbarron
I would never have guessed there was any binding in a CVD. Hey, how long has the BK2 been out? Is Losi going to be changing it soon?
It's not that they bind.They try to straighten themselves out under torque which in effect gives the car more roll stiffness under power.It sort of has the effect of a rear sway bar,but only on power.They can be a useful fine tuning aid.In generally dislike CVD's,but I have them in my oval XXX for more on-power steering.BTW the most efficient axles are the old plastic sliders.
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:47 AM   #24
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A skilled driver will do well with either car. Parts are cheaper for AE.
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Old 11-14-2005, 11:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbarron
What is the difference is there some kind of torque effect as the suspension loads and unloads? Would'nt grease or pin bearings fix any of these problems?
Dogbones will give you more steering where as CVD's will give more grip and as the BK2 has plenty of rear grip, All of the team losi drivers in the UK run dogbones
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:09 PM   #26
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anyone want to sell me a pair of doggies ten???
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Old 11-14-2005, 02:12 PM   #27
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The losi has more rear traction, but people struggle to get steering out of it. Most of the fast guys are running either bk-1 and XX-CR (I think thats it) parts, very few people are competitive with a standard bk2. The fast guys drive the losi, by wheeling it through the turns, I dont mean like sliding all over the place, they are very good at it and it is precise when they do it. They also seem to go really fast point to point. The b4 has more steering, but some of this comes from the fact that the rear end is looser. It doesnt have to be loose though, you can tighten it up with the arm mod or rear shorter camber links. Most people drive the b4 through the turns and some take the turns a little wider, not really wide, but not right up againist the pipe and they drive less point to point, and more around the turns, they dont seem to go as fast between the turns but still manage to be very fast. This is just what Ive noticed at my track and doesnt include everyone.
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Old 11-14-2005, 02:37 PM   #28
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My experience with the BK2 is exactly as Davidka's. For some reason, I have no problem keeping up with B4's or going faster on outdoor rough slippery tracks. It's like the buggy was made for it. Indoors on a high bite smooth track is a whole other story. It is extremely frustrating trying to keep up with the b4s. It feels like the BK2 steers like a semi-truck in the turns. No off-power steering and pushes in a straight line if I try to give it any throttle inputs at all. I'm very close to getting rid of my Losi after supporting the Losi vehicles for years. I haven't tried the dogbones yet, but I highly doubt they take care of all the steering problems. Yes, I'd agree that straight line traction and acceleration on the BK2 are killer, but the steering is just awful. I'd like to keep chasing the setup, but if that means buying the BK1 transmission and xxcr rear pivot support, I'm out. FT b4 is cheap and I'd rather just run a car that doesn't need so many different inputs to go fast on the high bite tracks.
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Old 11-14-2005, 02:38 PM   #29
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NO OFF POWER STEERING??? WOW!!! I need to send u guys my setup then... wow.
I have TONS of off power... i just need a TAD bit more on power...
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Old 11-14-2005, 03:02 PM   #30
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Here is one of the uk Losi drivers setup off his web page www.doughtyuk.net
Front
Toe - 0
Ride Height - ArmsLevel
Camber - -1
Caster - 30
Sway Bar - None
Oil - 27.5
Piston - 667 Details
Spring - Blue
Limters - None
Spindle Location - Up
Steering Ackerman - Outside
camber Link - 3 - KingPin Ball stud(high - 2mm)
Shock Location - 2 Outside
VLA - Long
Notes - 20gramms in bulkhead
- Aerochute front wing Available Here

Rear
Toe-In - 3 inboard
Pivot Support - XXCR 0deg block with 1 'long' shim under front
Rear Hub Spacing - Back
Ride Height - Driveshafts Level
Sway Bar - None
Oil - 27.5
Piston - 666 Details
Spring - Pink
Limiters - Inside none - Outside none
Camber Link - 2c 4mm under ball (Trinity Hub)
Shock Location - 2 Inside
VLA - Long on Hub, Short on Arm
Notes - Trinity 'Killer B' rear wing with full gurney flap

Battery Position - Up against servo and servo forward 2mm
Diff - XXX-KE
Driveshafts - BK Bones


One thing you might try rather that getting the CR rear end on the car is to take out the BK2 Gen 2 Diff halves and put the original ones in from the XXX Kinwald in and replace the DRIVESHAFT BONES ONLY WITH THE OLDER LONGER VERSIONS (dogbones or cvd's) BUT RETAIN THE BK2 AXLE. This will stop the car pushing so much in the corners
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Last edited by tyreman; 11-14-2005 at 03:16 PM.
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