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Slipper Clutch Issues

Slipper Clutch Issues

Old 12-10-2015, 09:24 PM
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Default Slipper Clutch Issues

Hey y'all, I'm having problems getting my slipper clutch to stop slipping on my SC10. I've done about everything to my knowledge to remedy the issue. Here is a list of things I've done over the last few days before trying to set my slipper clutch.
  • Installed a brand new ball diff
  • Installed brand new cvds
  • Installed brand new slipper pads (tan pads, part number ASC9603)
  • Did a proper break in of the ball diff

I followed the series of videos posted by Ben Ray on YouTube on how to assemble and break in a ball diff and slipper clutch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIYPol1udUo

After completing the ball diff break in, I attempted to set my slipper clutch, but no matter how much I cranked down the lock nut, the front end would just not lift up. I went ahead and bought a new slipper spring and sanded down my new slipper pads just in case, but even then nothing has changed.

I've seen posts mention that the diff may be too loose, but I feel like this isn't the case. While holding my spur and right wheel, I try to turn the left wheel, but it doesn't budge unless I were to apply an extreme amount of force. So I think the ball diff is fine. (Steps outlined by the video I mentioned).

I've also been told that a SCT will not lift up the same way a buggy will, if at all. It's even more true when there isn't enough power being supplied. I'm running a Hobbywing Xerun 120a esc paired with a Team Powers 8.5t brushless and a SMC 2s 60C lipo. I would imagine that I have enough power to get the front end to lift, especially since before swapping in the new parts, I was able to do just that.

I've attached a picture of my slipper clutch as well as a picture of the slipper plates. I notice that my slipper plates are pretty scuffed up. They aren't smooth and definitely feel like they have light ridges. This is the last thing I haven't had addressed. Is it possible the the condition of the plates is what is causing the slipping issue?

I've also attached a quick video of my truck running. I apologize for the poor lighting and awkward angle. It's the best I could do with one hand. Also, don't mind my dirty carpet .

Hope someone can help out! Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7p3O...ature=youtu.be
Attached Thumbnails Slipper Clutch Issues-slipper-clutch.jpg   Slipper Clutch Issues-slipper-plates.jpg  
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:13 PM
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for the sake of all my drive train components and wear, I neverr really want to be able to lift the front end on a bench anyway. Put it down on the track and run a couple laps. Then I stop in the straight and punch it, it should slip a couple feet, sometimes I even leave it looser if there are no jumps right out of corners.

before I found what I liked above, I couldn't get it to lift anyway. I just went from sc10 to sc5m
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Old 12-11-2015, 06:45 AM
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If you have to replace the slipper parts , you may consider moving up to the 3 pad vts slipper if it fits your truck. Check out the 1st page of the b5m thread , there is a nice article about 3/4 of the way down about setting the vts slipper , making sure its at track temp when you set it , and how it isn't as sensitive to glaze and wear etc. I find this to be accurate and may be the way to go in a heavier truck with a lot of grip
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Old 12-11-2015, 06:54 AM
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When I haven't been able to get the feel right with the standard slipper pads I switched to the Associated High Torque pads. I believe Eric stocks them at Nor-Cal. If that still doesn't work, Eric, Lass, or Daniel at Nor-Cal can help.
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:19 PM
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This:
Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
After completing the ball diff break in, I attempted to set my slipper clutch, but no matter how much I cranked down the lock nut, the front end would just not lift up. I went ahead and bought a new slipper spring and sanded down my new slipper pads just in case, but even then nothing has changed.
Is it possible you sanded them too thin and the plates are bottoming out before all the pressure of the spring can be applied to the pads?

The way to test is to cut a piece of thin cardboard or thick paper the same shape as the slipper pad and put a piece on each side of the gear under each pad.
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Old 12-11-2015, 09:34 PM
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The lifting the front end thing should only be for buggy/stadium truck IMO. For short course, remove the front wheels and set it for a little bit of lift.
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Old 12-12-2015, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
This:

Is it possible you sanded them too thin and the plates are bottoming out before all the pressure of the spring can be applied to the pads?

The way to test is to cut a piece of thin cardboard or thick paper the same shape as the slipper pad and put a piece on each side of the gear under each pad.
I didn't go too crazy with the sanding. Just enough to get rid of the light glazing that occurred from all the slipping that was happening when I was initially trying to set my clutch. I think they're fine.

On another forum, someone suggested that the sound I was hearing from my sct was from the ball diff being way too loose. I went ahead and tightened down the diff a little more and it did help get rid of some of the excess slipping. I guess the ball diff wasn't as tight as I thought.

@Scargoes, the next time I'm able to hit up NorCal I'll have to ask one of them for help. But with final exams happening this week and me leaving the country after exams, I definitely won't be able to visit until next month . It would be more ideal anyway for me to try to sort out the slipper clutch tuning on the track versus at home on carpet.
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